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Chisel Sharpening Vid?

Started by darita, April 25, 2023, 04:35:15 PM

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tgbto

Hi,

When you change diameters, you have to overgrind no matter what if you want a full bevel polish: overgrind the tip if you go from larger to smaller diameter, and therefore your projection will change... or overgrind the heel when you go smaller to larger. And as you're polishing, overgrinding can take a looooong time.

You can compensate for that by selecting different angles for the initial and subsequent grinds, and minimizing the amount of metal to be removed. @jvh has a "CompCalc" tab in his TormekCalc spreasheet if you want to do it exactly, or you can eyeball it with a couple degrees more or less depending on your sequence.

@jan mentions his source, Gilles, on this very forum. The topic can now be found here : https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,4326.0.html
      
      

darita

So after you've gone through the grinding wheels, what's the best way to finish chisels?  Should one follow the same procedure as one would on a knife's edge?  What do you personally do?

John Hancock Sr

Quote from: Ken S on April 27, 2023, 05:27:14 PMDarita,

In my opinion, the fastest, most repeatably accurate way to set up chisels (and plane blades) is with the Tormek TTS-100, shown in this link:

...

Ken

Just tried this and works a treat. I have a rule with a stop on it. I set each angle them measured the protrusion. Once I know that I can record it. To set up a blade for sharpening I simply set the stop on the rule then set the protrusion using that.

RichColvin

---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

Ken S

Quote from: darita on May 04, 2023, 03:45:01 PMKen, I've been using the TTS-100 along with your suggestions.  I also use SchleifJunkies CBN wheels, Tormek diamond wheel, WoodTurners Wonder and the SJ, all of which leave different degrees of scratch pattern bevel coverage.  Because of that, I've had to change my Projection to achieve a full bevel scratch pattern.  I'm guessing that the cause of this is each wheel has a slightly different diameter.  Is this expected or am I doing something wrong?

Darita,

The two metal wheels on the TTS-100 automatically compensate for different wheel diameters. Draw a spoke on each wheel with your marker. This makes it easy to see when both wheels are contacting the grinding wheel. (These wheels are a Tormek patent and one of the features which make the TTS-100 so versatile.)

Incidentally, I generally use only the SG for sharpening chisels. I find SG coarse/SG fine and then the leather honing wheel with PA-70 makes quite sharp edges. Once the edge is sharp, touch ups are fast.

Ken