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DBS-22 Base Plate Mod

Started by RickKrung, September 30, 2018, 11:55:14 PM

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RickKrung

Quote from: RickKrung on September 29, 2018, 01:23:10 AM
...snip...
On the T8, the platform is a little over 45mm away from the left edge of the grinding wheel.  I think this is too close as the DBS sliding platform tends to tilt as it extends out over thin air on the left side of the fixed platform.  I find that I have to pay special attention to preventing this tilting as it can mess up the facet grinds. 

...snip... 
Rick

I commented previously about the position of the DBS-22 Base Plate being too far to the right on the USB, allowing for tilting of the drill bit holder at the left extreme of travel during grinding.  Even being aware of it and trying to not allow it to tilt, the pressure of trying to hold the bit holder firmly down while sliding inevitably led to tilting.  I decided to take care of that today.  I cut and milled out a section of the left side of the USB sleeve from the Base Plate.




It allows the Base Plate to be positioned about 32mm further to the left.


Providing full support for the drill bit holder when the drill point has reached the left edge of the grinding wheel.  I haven't used it yet, but feel confident that I'll be able to slide comfortably without risk of tilting any more. 

Rick
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

RichColvin

---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

Ken S

Clever, Rick.

I have often commented that I consider the DBS-22 to be Tormek's most advanced jig. I think you may have improved it.

Please keep us posted with your user reports.

I predict that my DBS-22 will be on my to do list for my local machinist.

keep up the good work!

Ken

RickKrung

Quote from: Ken S on October 01, 2018, 02:51:01 AM
Clever, Rick.
...snip...
I predict that my DBS-22 will be on my to do list for my local machinist.

keep up the good work!

Ken

Save the machinist for something you really need one for.  This one I think anyone with a hacksaw and a file (and/or sander) can do.  It is only a matter of hacksawing out a section, at least an inch long and cleaning up with a file.  A sander would be handy to rapidly take off extra stock not gotten by the saw and finishing off with a file.  I could post a drawing, but I think this photo shows it well enough.


Rick
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

Ken S

Good thought, Rick. Also, I want to compare the amounts to be removed for both the T7/8 and T4.

Ken

RickKrung

#5
Quote from: Ken S on October 01, 2018, 04:33:07 AM
Good thought, Rick. Also, I want to compare the amounts to be removed for both the T7/8 and T4.

Ken

I don't have access to either the T7 or T4, but I cannot see what difference it makes.  I've put the modified Base Plate on my BGM rigged 8" bench grinder and it all looks good. 


I also put it on the T8 with the "less than" 8" 3X wheel and it all looks good. 


With how I modified the base plate, there is a little over 4mm clearance with the USB.  I think it is more about clearance for the underside of the base plate with the legs of the USB.  Where that clearance is needed is different between the BGM and the T8/7/4s because on the former, the USB legs are vertical and the latter horizontal.  I think the T4 would have to differ quite a bit to require much different in how the base plate is modified. 

Rick
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

Ken S

Rick, I measured the distance between the outer surface of the usb threaded vertical leg and the inner edge of the grinding wheel with the T4 and T7. The T4 is slightly less, 29mm with the SG-200, and about the same 32mm with the DC-200 coarse diamond wheel. The T7, as expected, is the same as the T8. I would be happy with your 32mm with any of them.

Ken

RickKrung

Quote from: Ken S on October 01, 2018, 04:21:47 PM
Rick, I measured the distance between the outer surface of the usb threaded vertical leg and the inner edge of the grinding wheel with the T4 and T7. The T4 is slightly less, 29mm with the SG-200, and about the same 32mm with the DC-200 coarse diamond wheel. The T7, as expected, is the same as the T8. I would be happy with your 32mm with any of them.

Ken

With the T4, the Base Plate is 3mm more to the right (closer to the edge of the wheel) than the T7/8, removal of part of the USB sleeve is that much more valuable, IMHO. 

Rick
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

RickKrung

#8
Quote from: Ken S on October 01, 2018, 02:51:01 AM
...snip...
I have often commented that I consider the DBS-22 to be Tormek's most advanced jig. I think you may have improved it.

Please keep us posted with your user reports.
...snip...

I can definitively say that the Base Plate mod has proven its worth. 

I ran some trials this morning, using the modified Base Plate with the DBS-22 on my Rikon 8" bench grinder with the BGM-100 USB setups, coarse and fine white grind stones and the T8 with the DC, DF and DE diamond grinding wheels.  In every instance, when sliding the Drill Holder on the Slider Plate, there was not the slightest hint of tilting.  I quickly forgot about that and was able to focus entirely on what was happening at the drill/stone interface.  The entire jig worked as easily and smoothly on the Rikon as it does on the Tormek.  Grinding of the facets was very quick with the Rikon. 

For setting of the primary facet angle using the Angle Setter, I found it most effective to hold the Setter in my right hand up against the wheel and grip the knob with my left hand and support the plate/assembly with the back of my left hand. This allowed me to firmly keep both corners of the setter firmly on the wheel and rotate the plate assembly up to meet the bottom edge of the Setter and lock the angle in place.


I took a photo of each finished drill point, showing the primary and secondary facets and attempted to get the light to reflect so the nature of the grind finish could be seen.  You can be the judge of how successful that effort was.  I started with the Rikon coarse and ground each one in succession.  For each new wheel, I reset the drill bit in the holder, resetting the rotational orientation and the projection. 

Rikon coarse wheel.


Rikon fine wheel.


T8 DC.


T8 DF.


T8 DE.  Two images of this one.





All grind stones produced usable finishes, except perhaps the DC.  All were superior to the Drill Doctor that I tried in early summer 2017, just before buying the T8.

I think the Rikon Fine and the DF are very comparable and I would be satisfied with either for general purpose drills.  Given how easy and quick the Rikon was to use, it may become my Go To unless I really feel the need to put a finer finish, in which case I'd use the DE.  I have not tried using just the Rikon Fine (without having first established the facets on the Rikon Coarse stone).   I have also not tried going directly from the Rikon Fine to the DE to find out if that is all that is necessary, in the hope of eliminating intermediate steps. 

Rick
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

Ken S

#9
Rick,

My DBS-22 base is now back from my local machine shop. It is modified like yours.  I am anxious to try it.

Ken

RickKrung

Quote from: Ken S on October 22, 2018, 06:04:16 PM
Tick,

My DBS-22 base is now back from my local machine shop. It is modified like yours.  I am anxious to try it.

Ken

And we (I at least) are anxious to hear and SEE how it goes for you.  Keep in mind that tip about rotating smaller drill bits CCW a little and stopping grinding when the primary facet lip is lined up with the lines on the jig.  I haven't tried that yet as I haven't done any more drill sharpening again, but that is one thing I am anxious to try. 

Also, I found it interesting, but not surprising, that Glenn Lucas likes and uses the DBS-22 for sharpening his drill bits. 

Rick
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

Ken S

Rick,

Like you, I think the idea of rotating the bits a little bit CCW has promise, the amount maybe depending on how dull the bit is.

An interesting comment on one of his DVDs by Glenn Lucas. Glenn mentioned having an engineer's lathe in the next building. It looked like a heavy duty machine shop lathe. It doesn't look like Glenn just tinkers in his handyman basement workshop.I think his comments about the Tormek indicate a real understanding of it and long experience. I find his DVDs both informative and refreshing.

Ken

RickKrung

Quote from: Ken S on October 22, 2018, 07:25:54 PM
Rick,
...snip...
An interesting comment on one of his DVDs by Glenn Lucas. Glenn mentioned having an engineer's lathe in the next building. It looked like a heavy duty machine shop lathe. It doesn't look like Glenn just tinkers in his handyman basement workshop.I think his comments about the Tormek indicate a real understanding of it and long experience. I find his DVDs both informative and refreshing.

Ken

Ken,

I would like to see that DVD.  Is it one available online or are you viewing one you have obtained from Glenn?  Just this morning, following your lead, I found a YT site with his videos. I am not a wood turner, but given my proclivities, it isn't out of the realm.  Is that video among those on this site?

I have a nearly life-time friend who is a very hardworking cow farmer over in the Willamette Valley here in Oregon (I say "farmer" as his isn't a "ranch" but a farm) who, also just this morning, I emailed some links to Glenn's videos.  He doesn't have much time for turning but he has a very nice, vintage Powermatic wood lathe.  I visited him and his wife last spring and did a bunch of sharpening for them, including some of his wood turning tools.  I am hoping he can make the time to watch some of the videos.  If nothing else, maybe he can voyeur-istically enjoy some wood turning.

Rick
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

Ken S

Rick,

This Glenn Lucas DVD is one, to quote you, where we must pay a fair price for good oats.

Here is a link:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/99/6693/Glenn-Lucas-Woodturning-Mastering-Woodturning-Dublin-Viking-Bowl-DVD

One of the things which motivated me to take up turning was this charming bowl. Being based on a thousand year old Viking bowl has a mystique. So does the design. It fits the hand well. I like the single bead. It is beyond my present skill level, however, I am working to correct that deficiency. The DVD is from 2015, when the SVD-186 gouge jig was first available. The included review is quite perceptive. I find the DVD fascinating on many levels. My one regret is that is predates the Tormek diamond wheels.

Incidentally, in Glenn's ezine that AKMike linked, Glenn states that his first choice among the three diamond wheels for turners is the DE-250, the 1200 grit wheel. He also speaks well of the DC-250 360 grit wheel for reshaping. I have reshaped a skew with the DC. The process was not fast, however, progress was steady and satisfying.

I purchased four of Glenn's videos, and would recommend all of them. Like the Tormek turner's DVD, they are long enough to go into very good detail. With videos of this caliber, I continue to learn through several viewings.

Ken

Tazzat

I did it like this.

And made a slot in the plate so the sliding plate dont come loose..