EzyLok nut

[ega]

From Tormek's description of the MSK-250 shaft kit:

"With the Tormek EzyLock, which is both a nut and a washer, you need no tools for mounting and dismounting the stone. The special pitch on the left hand thread causes the rotation of the wheel to tighten the nut to the right torque."

Does anyone know what this "special pitch" is? Is it essentially any different from the lefthand nut found on eg bench grinders where the inertia of the nut causes it to self-tighten when the machine is started up?

[RichColvin]

I don't know the pitch, but it is pretty low (I'm thinking in terms of threads per inch).  Not something I've seen before. 

Rich

[Ken S]

Ega,

I measured the EZYlock thread with my metric thread gages. It is 2.00mm. It has the standard modified V shape and, as noted, is left hand.

The right hand thread for the drive wheel and leather honing wheel is 1.75mm. I believe that is the standard coarser thread for 12mm diameter.

I was surprised how close the pitch of the two threads really are. The EZYlock thread seems much coarser. I don't know anything about dry grinder left hand threads.

Ken

[ega]

Rich Colvin and Ken S:

Thank you for your replies. As you may have realized I am running the old style Tormek spindle with 12mm x 1.75mm right hand threads at each end. With this, the advice was to tighten the nut retaining the grinding wheel by hitting the spanner with a hammer!

I'm assuming that both ends of the EzyLok-type spindle are 12mm in diameter. I guess that the reason for the super-coarse 2mm pitch thread of the left hand thread is that it is also "EzyUnlok"; presumably, the standard right hand *nut* on the other end could not be removed by hand pressure (ignoring the threaded plastic knob which allows the honing wheels to be removed by hand).

My other thought was that the difference between the two pitches which you have pointed out plays some part; not for the first time, I wish I had paid more attention in the physics class!

Incidentally, I have seen one complaint that the EzyLok nut could only be removed by the use of a monkey wrench.

[cbwx34]

....
Incidentally, I have seen one complaint that the EzyLok nut could only be removed by the use of a monkey wrench.

The whole story?...


http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58700

p.s.  If this isn't it... now you know what to go tell the person who had the issue.   

[RichColvin]

Ega,

I have a 15-year old Tormek T-2000.  I've replaced the shaft to be the EZ-lock shaft primarily because my older one was rusted too badly.  After I got the new one in place, I really learned the value of the EZ-lock nut.

On the grindwheel side, the EZ lock nut can be released as cbwx34 noted :  grab the grindwheel and twist it in an clockwise manner (whilst also holding the honing wheel).  Note :  this is the opposite of the "righty tighty, lefty loosey" rule.

I have added the profiled leather wheel, so I have to remove that using the big nut, and then remove the shaft using a wrench.  Not a big deal.

Rich

[ega]

RichColvin

Thank you for clarifying this method of removing the wheel. Checking back to the Tormek website, I see that this is the official way.

I upgraded my shaft to stainless before the EzyLock came out. Now that a variety of alternative wheels including CBN is available I will probably upgrade again.

Incidentally, I was sorry to learn that Torgny Jansson died some time ago. I have a feeling that my Tormek will outlive me, too!

[Ken S]

Ega,

Originally both ends of the Tormek shaft had 12mm x 1.75 mm right hand threads with hex nuts. For a short period years ago, Tormek sold the EA-240, a rubber wheel with infused abrasive which interchanged with the leather honing wheel. To speed up wheel changes, a Quick Connect was introduced. The plastic quick connect later replaced the hex nut on the "dry side". The leather honing wheel is held in position with round plastic protrusions which fit in socket holes. There is not the need for holding pressure to prevent slippage as there is with the grinding wheel.

I converted to the EZYlock seven years ago, and have never regretted the conversion cost. After a couple jamming problems, I put a piece of tape with an arrow on the top of my T7. My jamming problem was my brain reverting back to righty tighty, lefty loosy mode. The simple tape arrow ended that. Incidentally, when I posted the tape arrow idea, another member reminded me that the EZYlock nut has direction arrows on it. I have several different wheels and routinely leave the wheel removed between sharpening sessions.

Must dash.

Ken

[ega]

Ken S:

Thank you for the history - I had not heard of the EA-240.

I take it that the jamming was caused by your inadvertently wrong-way-round attempt at removal causing the EzyLock to be tightened beyond the point at which it could easily be removed - yet another of life's gotchas! I would guess that your practice of frequent wheel removal has meant that correct removal is now second nature.

[Ken S]

Ega,

I wouldn't quite call it second nature.......It's more like once bitten, twice cautious. 

Ken

[cbwx34]

If you want a real scare... install the wheel and hit the switch... forgetting the inside washer.

You won't do it twice.... 

(Don't actually try this).

[loutent]

....
Incidentally, I have seen one complaint that the EzyLok nut could only be removed by the use of a monkey wrench.

I encountered this yesterday - I wanted to remove the stone in order to see what the gap was next to the water trough and machine housing (T-8) since I was getting a bit of water running down and filling the SB. I could not remove the nut - even tried channel locks with no success - I just gave up.

Suggestions anyone? My T-8 is about a week old.

Edit: I just wanted to add that I do realize it's a reverse threaded nut - I was turning "righty loosy" 

Lou

[cbwx34]

I encountered this yesterday - I wanted to remove the stone in order to see what the gap was next to the water trough and machine housing (T-8) since I was getting a bit of water running down and filling the SB. I could not remove the nut - even tried channel locks with no success - I just gave up.

Suggestions anyone? My T-8 is about a week old.

Edit: I just wanted to add that I do realize it's a reverse threaded nut - I was turning "righty loosy" 

Lou

Turn the  grinding wheel, not the nut.

Watch this video... at the 4:38 mark...

https://youtu.be/IX96a9WoAJE?t=4m38s

With the Tormek EzyLock, which is both a nut and a washer, you need no tools for mounting and dismounting the stone. The special pitch on the left hand thread causes the rotation of the wheel to tighten the nut to the right torque.

When mounting the grindstone, turn by hand the Ezylock nut anticlockwise into position. It will automatically tighten to the right torque during the first sharpening.

If you need to change stone, turn the stone clockwise while fixating the leather honing wheel with the other hand and the EzyLock will easily loosen.

https://www.tormek.com/international/en/spare-parts/shafts/msk-250-stainless-steel-shaft/

[loutent]

[/quote]

Turn the  grinding wheel, not the nut.

Watch this video... at the 4:38 mark...

https://youtu.be/IX96a9WoAJE?t=4m38s

If you need to change stone, turn the stone clockwise while fixating the leather honing wheel with the other hand and the EzyLock will easily loosen.
[/quote]

Well, that was easy - thanks for the link. The humbling part is that I have watched that video several times and missed that little tidbit

Lou

[cbwx34]

You're welcome... apparently you're not the first.

Makes me think Tormek should stick a sticker on the nut with instructions... that the user needs to remove to use it.  It's definitely not an intuitive way to remove it.