New tip and cutting edge on a Yaxell 36001

[Magnus Sundqvist]

Hello ppl.

Today a costumer handed in his 36001 with no tip so i took it to my grinding station and had a go.
This time i took a bunch of images and created a album on Imgur.
Here it is, have fun 

I'll gladly answer any questions or so.

Best regards from Sweden.

http://imgur.com/a/Bnyb7

[stevebot]

A nice piece of work, thanks for documenting it. I would have dropped the spine to meet the existing edge. More metal to remove but all blunt work that would not require a guide.

[SharpenADullWitt]

Shapes the knife differently, will be interesting to see his opinion of it.
So you used the diamond blade on the T-7, or do you have the T-2 as well?

[Jan]

Very daring design and great grinding work. Congratulations. 

It is a pity that the customer gave no guidance concerning the re-shaping. 

Jan

[Jan]

A nice piece of work, thanks for documenting it. I would have dropped the spine to meet the existing edge. More metal to remove but all blunt work that would not require a guide.

Steve,

without a guidance concerning the re-shaping I would do the same as you suggested. This would preserve the typical santoku blade geometry characterised by the sheep's foot tip.

I use similar Santoku knife made of a stainless Damascus-patterned blade with a VG-10 cutting core. Its hardness is about 61 Rockwell. VG-10 is known for its ability to hold the bevel (abrasion resistance) but also for being fragile and chipping quite easily on hard surfaces.

Jan

[Magnus Sundqvist]

Thanks for all the kind words.
I was thinking of dropping the spine a bit but due to time I went for the edge, but it's a good idea stevebot. I've done it several times on Global knives that's lost their tips.

SharpenADullWit, yes I have a T-2 and also a T-4

I will do some more documenting further on as more knives pass through.

[Ken S]

Nice work and photos, Magnus.

Having worked with Norton 3X conventional grinding wheels on the T4, I hope to someday work with a Tormek CBN or diamond wheel. (Tormek must first manufacture them for this to happen. )

I do like the T4!

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

Steve's idea of dropping the spine to meet the edge got me thinking. Do large kitchen knives really need to come to a point? Is the point ever used? And is it more a danger as a cause of accidental injury than anything else?

[SharpenADullWitt]

Thanks Mangus.
I went back and looked at the pictures again, and it made me realize, are you using it on the Tormek stand?
I saw the other wheel on the side and my brain said that image showed one Tormek, over another.  So I was thinking I might just be seeing you use one machine on the top of that IKEA stand, while the other was on a lower shelf.  Then I thought the wheel was off.  Sometimes I look at things and my concept is preventing me from seeing what is actually there.

Herman,
Points on knives give you an entry point, as well as a scoring point.  You can choose another knife, and in the case of this style of knife, it is more of a down cutting tool, then a slicing tool. (similar to a Chinese cleaver, up and down motion, more then rocking like a western chef's knife)
Not all knives have points and not all come to a point on the front, but may be squared off.  For instance, Dexter Russell sells a 3 7/8" shoe knife that is liked by both leather workers as well as by cooks as a paring knife.  A larger version, sold as a rubber knife, is liked by insulation installers, to cut bats.
Some draw knives have handles to the side (no useable points), and dough knives which are also sold as butter knives, have a curve and can have serrations or not.

But the points tend to get used for both packaging opening (modern material, or the peel of an onion), as well as scoring and lifting.  There are just different techniques, for different knives.

[Herman Trivilino]

I suppose that the points on my larger kitchen knives are used mostly for cutting through the plastic wrapping on supermarket foods.

A tip on a paring knife, on the other hand, is essential for coring things like apples and bell peppers.

I suppose everyone's needs vary according to the type of cooking they do and their cutlery preferences. In the future, though, any time I consider repairing a broken tip I'll first ask if having a tip on that particular knife is really an advantage.

[WolfY]

A nice piece of work, thanks for documenting it. I would have dropped the spine to meet the existing edge. More metal to remove but all blunt work that would not require a guide.

Couldn't agree more.
Removing the steel from the edge change to much of the knife character and force you to regrind the first bevel too. In a damascus steel and with VG10 core IMHO it's wrong, even if you did a nice job on that knife.
I think I would just straighten the tip and give it a nice new straight drop angle about 15 dgrs to the edge.
But most important and I agree with Herman that consulting with the customer and presenting different solutions with the explanation of good and bad in them is crucial.

Lycka till

[WolfY]

By the way, if I'm not mistaken, this "Made in Japan" is only referring to the steel. There are knifes like this, made in China and costs about $40~50USD on ebay or Aliexpress. I have one and like it very much. They are light and holding the edge pretty nice. HRc should be about 60-62
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20160826140032&SearchText=xinzuo+8+chef
Although IKEA has nice knifes too and are very cheap. Got them too.

[Jan]

Recently I was sharpening a knife made of Japanese stainless steel VG-10. I have noticed that the magnetically attracted steel fillings were different from fillings obtained by sharpening milder steels.

The gathered fillings derived from the VG-10 steel had granular character compared with the fillings from milder steels which usually form a bulge above the magnet which resembles hedgehog spines. I was wondering if the powder metallurgy could be the reason for it. 

Jan

[Magnus Sundqvist]

Steve's idea of dropping the spine to meet the edge got me thinking. Do large kitchen knives really need to come to a point? Is the point ever used? And is it more a danger as a cause of accidental injury than anything else?

In my opinion a point is always useful. On a larger knife, sure the point is perhaps not used as much as in smaller or peeling knives. So, why not, I see your point (!).
But maybe it would be seen upon as a some what decimated knife if it's missing it's point?

The reason I discussed this edge line with the costumer is that the knife won't dig in to the cutting board as much with this radius right before the tip.
As you guys know whilst cutting smaller objects in large scale the front part of the knife rarely leave the surface of the cutting board. And the knife is slightly moving to and front and with a straighter edge it's easier for the point to stick into the cutting board and killing the flow of the cutting. Not good when working fast in say, a competition.

[Magnus Sundqvist]

Thanks Mangus.
I went back and looked at the pictures again, and it made me realize, are you using it on the Tormek stand?
I saw the other wheel on the side and my brain said that image showed one Tormek, over another.  So I was thinking I might just be seeing you use one machine on the top of that IKEA stand, while the other was on a lower shelf.  Then I thought the wheel was off.  Sometimes I look at things and my concept is preventing me from seeing what is actually there.

Yes, it is a Tormek stand.
The lower stone is hanging on a small stud on the side. I have another stone hanging on the opposite side of the stand.
I can provide some more pictures of my corner once it's a bit more organised because right now it's a bit of a mess