cracked drive wheels

[Ken S]

I hope those of us with experience with cracked plastic drive wheels will post there experiences.

If you are the original owner, how did the cracked wheel happen?

If you purchased your Tormek second hand, was the wheel already cracked when you purchased it?

Have you repaired or replaced the drive wheel?

Does the cracked drive wheel effect your Tormek use?

How long have you used your cracked wheel.

Please add your thoughts. We have a good feel for what causes rusted and bent main shafts. I would like to add drive wheels to that list.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

 I suspect a mixture of age and overtightening caused the cracks in mine.  I do not have the original knob as mine came with the profile wheels.

[Ken S]

Thanks for sharing, SADW.

Ken

[andersvallargardet]

I bought an old sa-250 and the general failure was that the previous owner had thightened the nut too much. It was so hard thightened that the washer on the back had been pushed into the plastic.
a new wheel is bought, so i hope the problem now will be solved.

[Ken S]

Anders,

Welcome to the forum. Your post brings up some interesting thoughts. Based on an old handbook I acquired, the quick connect for the honing wheel was a later addition. Being Tormek, it was backward compatable with older models. Apparently, the quick connect was introduced to accommodate the EA-240, a heavier duty honing wheel. The EA-240 was designed to be more aggressive. It did not leave as finely polished an edge as the leather honing wheel. The EA-240 was discontinued years ago. I do not know the particulars. Having a more aggressive honing wheel with quick change option seems like a good idea to me. Perhaps you guys with Supergrinds and older would check your handbooks in the honing section. Please scan and post if you can.

I hope the new drive wheel and your increased wisdom with the tightening wrench will solve your problem.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

Perhaps the SJ stone is a modern alternative to that more aggressive EA-240 honing wheel.

[jeffs55]

Anders,
Perhaps you guys with Supergrinds and older would check your handbooks in the honing section. Please scan and post if you can.
Ken

I have an older Supergrind 2000 and cannot find a name for the original stone other than "Grindstone SuperGrind". The handbook is edition 7.1.

[Ken S]

Jeff,

Thanks for posting. I believe your edition of the handbook predates the TTS-100. Would you please post what your handbook edition recommends for setting the projection length of turning gouges.

In the Tormek Turning DVD, Jeff Farris suggested making a simple wooden setting block for setting up unusual gouges. I would like to verify if this was from an earlier version of the handbook. I want to document different parts of my set up technique as originating in the handbook. The projection block idea seems to have been omittted in later handbooks after the introduction of the TTS-100.

Thanks,

Ken

[jeffs55]

Jeff,

Thanks for posting. I believe your edition of the handbook predates the TTS-100. Would you please post what your handbook edition recommends for setting the projection length of turning gouges.

In the Tormek Turning DVD, Jeff Farris suggested making a simple wooden setting block for setting up unusual gouges. I would like to verify if this was from an earlier version of the handbook. I want to document different parts of my set up technique as originating in the handbook. The projection block idea seems to have been omittted in later handbooks after the introduction of the TTS-100.

Thanks,

Ken
Sorry Ken, I do not know what you mean by projection length. I assume you mean how much does the tool project from the appropriate jig. If that is the case, I see no mention of that. I did however come across some info on the use of a wooden block and photographed that info. The photo site is here: http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/jeffs1955/library/?sort=3&page=1

[Scott K]

Hi all,

I've just been lurking in the background for a while.  I have a T7 and have just purchased a 2000 as a back up.  The 2000 came with an original manual (no dates) and lists the following:
EA-240 as a de-burring wheel. Aluminium Oxide.  "For tougher honing action". 

SK-85 Quick coupling kit for de-burring wheel on early SA-250 model.  Both honing wheels have a mounted steel plate for Quick Coupling.

ES-250 Grindstone.  Natural sandstone - For fast grinding.  Not suitable for HSS-steel.

Hope this helps. 
Regards Scott.

[Ken S]

Jeff,

You are quite correct. My use of "projection" is confusing. I should use the word "protrusion"; that's the word Tormek uses in the handbook. The third handbook page you posted shows a device used to set protrusion. (Protrusion being the amount the tool extends from the end of the jig. I need a better term to state (when using knife jigs) the total protrusion of the knife plus the jig from the universal support.

The device shown in your scan looks like a Tormek made accossory. I was unaware of this....thanks.

Jeff Farris used a simple wooden device of a flat piece of wood with a block mounted beneath to hold it against the front of the bench and a second block on top to serve as a protrusion stop. Deneb Puchalski of Lie-Nielsen uses a similar multiblock arrangement for setting chisels and planes.

Thanks for posting the scans.

Scott,

Welcome to the active forum.

You found exactly what I was talking about in your handbook. I'm sure Tormek must have had a good reason to discontinue the EA-240, although it does seem a very useful accessory. I would be interested in knowing Tormek's thinking for both introducing and discontinuing it.

The SK-85 quick coupling is very useful. It has become standard equipment on the T7. I purchased one as a spare part through sharptoolsusa.com and replaced the standard 12mm nut holding the leather honing wheel on my T4. At this stage I only have one leather honing wheel for the T4. (I plan to add at least one more eventually.) I like the quick coupling on the T4 to quickly remove the honing wheel to clean any spattered compound.

The natural sandstone grinding wheel is intriguing. They were the original Tormek grinding wheels. They are mined on a nearby Swedish island. As with other grinding abrasives, natural materials have generally been superceded with manmade materials. This is especially true with today's tougher tool steels.

I hope you will continue to post.

Ken

[Scott K]

Ken 
I don't know if this is what you are looking for but manual lists the protruding distance of 40 to 50mm when using the Grinding Jig for gouges, SVS-40.

[Ken S]

Thanks for your reply, Scott.

What you have found is related to my search. In my opinion, the most advanced Tormek jig is the DBS-22 drill bit grinding jig. I am amazed with its versatility, which extends far beyond my needs. However, I think the most amazing combination of a jig and its set up accessory is the gouge jig and the TTS-100. That combination makes accurate and repeatable gouge resharpening essentially foolproof, while allowing great versatility. The latest version of the gouge jig is even better. The Tormek engineers have really shined with this combination.

Being a Tormek junkie, I purchased almost all of the jigs and accessories early on. Even though I am not an active turner, I use the TTS-100 quite regularly. The self correction for wheel diameter changes and two fixed distance positions (A and B holes) have provided me the same level of repeatability with plane and chisel blades as with turning gouges. Combined with Dutchman's most useful tables, the TTS-100 was the ancestor tool for my kenjig for knives.  Other forum members have advanced considerably by including the wheel diameter self correction in their versions.

Back to my original thought, the TTS-100 evolved from earlier Tormek techniques pioneered by the inventor, Torgny Jansson. At some point, Torgny combined some of these early techniques and produced the TTS-100 for turning gouges. Some of these early techniques have been omitted from recent handbook editions. I would guess that Tormek felt they were no longer needed with the development of the TTS-100. This is certainly true for turning gouges. However, for some reason the engineers have not extended the TTS-100 technology to other tools. That is the purpose of my home shop tinkering; I want to make sharpening other tools as precise and repeatable as sharpening turning gouges. In order to do that, I am trying to research older editions of the handbook to learn Tormek technique before some of the jigs and accessories were invented. I want to try to learn to think like Torgny.

Please do not misinterpret me. I have absolutely no commercial desires. The sharing forum environment suits me where we collectively build on ideas with no thought of monetary gain.

I am trying, with only limited success to be more brief in my posts. This post is already long enough.

Ken

ps Scott, I am looking for how the protrusion length was set before the slots in the TTS-100.

[SharpenADullWitt]

Anders,
Perhaps you guys with Supergrinds and older would check your handbooks in the honing section. Please scan and post if you can.
Ken

I have an older Supergrind 2000 and cannot find a name for the original stone other than "Grindstone SuperGrind". The handbook is edition 7.1.

Ken, do you know any different?
My understanding was when the Supergrind 2000 came out, it was only the man made stone and didn't really have a special name.  (SG was for Supergrind and 250 was the size, SG-250)  It wasn't until others got into making new stones for the Tormek, like the King stones listed here: http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=164.0

Even then, at some point, The machine quit being the Supergrind 2000 and became the Tormek 2000 or T-2000. (and I have wondered it part of that was because of the second Terminator movie)
Ken,
"The SK-85 quick coupling is very useful. It has become standard equipment on the T7"  If it is standard equipment on the T-7, then what is it?  (don't see the SK-85 listed in parts) https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/replacement-parts-for-t-7-and-2000-all-10-systems 
My brain is fried this morning and I can't quite wrap my head around it, as I am keep thinking of the shaft that goes through the leather profile wheels (which aren't standard).

[Ken S]

Good post, SADW.

The quick coupling SK-85, or what now performs that function is presently called the Locking Knob for Honing Wheel, part 7041. On the Advmachinery/sharptoolsusa diagram it is part #50 for the T7. Cost is $11.95. It is standard equipment for the T7. It interchanges with the regular 12mm nut on the T4. I ordered one as a replacement for my T4. I like to remove the leather honing wheel whenever I clean the T4.

Interesting about the SG designation on grinding wheels meaning "super grind". That seems logical, although it did not occur to me.