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Fingernail bowl gouge

Started by reedoc, March 21, 2014, 03:37:00 PM

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reedoc

I have a 1/2 crown pinnicle fingernail bowl gouge, any suggestions as far as settings for sharpening. thanks Mark

Rob

Match its existing settings by marking the bevel with a permanent marker and then offer to the wheel while in the articulated bowl gouge jig at say P=65, hole A.  Then loosen the allen bolt and turn adjust the jig to match the bevel.  If its out of range repeat on the other 2 protrusion settings til you match your bevel.  The marker is to show where its grinding ie turn the wheel once it looks right by eye and the rubbed off pen will show where the grinding has taken place.  It should be from top to bottom of bevel of course.

If you want a different fingernail grind just look it up in the manual.  My personal favourite is p=65, hole A jig setting 4 and for deep bowls jig setting 2 all the others the same.  I'm yet to experiment with an Ellsworth grind but its on my list as I like the idea of the huge cutting surface for platter work which I'm just getting into.
Best.    Rob.

reedoc

Thanks for the info Rob will give it a try. Mark

GGuessa

I have been trying to use the SVD-185 jig to create an Ellsworth grind.  Works great on the right side of the 5/8 bowl gouge.  However the left side can't be done because the center post of the Universal Support will not allow the jig to move enough to the left to stay on the stone.  I am using the tool to grind with the wheel moving away from the edge, as shown in the movie and diagrams.

When I switch to have the stone rotate toward the edge, I get a bad chatter that chipped the wheel.   And then of course, the oncoming water makes it difficult to see the edge that I am trying to shape.

I am using the T3 Tormek.  The SVD-185 jig is set up, JS=6, P=75, Hole A as recommended for the Ellsworth. 

I would like the angle to be smaller.  The manual does not provide guidance on how to change the setup to do this.  In other words, what happens when the protrusion is reduced?   What happens when the spacing to the wheel is changed?

Suggestions? 

GGuessa

I found that using a pair of large washers between the grinding wheel and the trunnion offset the wheel enough to shape the wings.  Of course the wheel is cutting a slot in the water bucket.  Also, all the grinding is on the edge and wearing the stone down in just a portion of the right side.

Then I found that the SVD-185 will only allow honing the left side of the gouge to the very center.  There is no honing of the right side.  What is the fix?  A thick stack of washers does not seem to be a solution for this.

GGuessa

I found that using a pair of large washers between the grinding wheel and the trunnion will offset the wheel enough to shape both wings.  Of course the wheel is cutting a slot in the water bucket due to the offset.  When working the left side of the gouge, all the grinding is on the right edge of the stone.  That is causing rapid wearing of the right side of the stone.

Then I found that the SVD-185 will only allow honing the left side of the gouge.  It stops honing at the very center of the gouge.  There is no honing of the right side of the gouge.  What is the fix?  A thick stack of washers will not be a solution for this.