and old topic revitalized

[Ken S]

Mike's comments about this part of the forum including general woodworking as well as sharpening has inspired me to revitalize an old, but good posting idea.

We all have different working experiences.  I believe sharing some of our thoughts on favorite tools and techniques would benefit us all.  So, here is one of my favorite tools.

Recommending the six inch (or 150mm) Starrett rule is not original.  However, I have found other recommendations lacking in useful information.  There are many rules made.  Some are more useful than others.  Even some of the extensive lineup of Starrett rules are less useful.

For those in Europe and other areas, there may be other brands just as suitable.  I would recommend using the Starrett as an evaluation standard.

First of all, Starrett does not photo etch their rules.  The marks have sharply delineated v shapes.  This causes a definite increase in accuracy.  I have read that the sharp v shape allows a skilled user to work within about three thousands of an inch, not bad for a rule divided in eighths to sixty
fourths.  The rlue manufacturing equipment is periodically checked by the National Bureau of Standards.

Each model of Starrett rule has a code to designate length, graduation, features and finish.  The finish code is very important.  "C" indicates that the rule is satin chrome.  Satin chrome is noticeably easier to read than the standard steel finish.  I don't know why Starrett continues to also manufacture standard finish rules.  Make sure the first letter in the code you look at is C.

Starrett makes rules in various thicknesses.  The three hundred series are either flexible or semi flexible. The semi flexible rules have the designation "SR" in the code.  The six hundred series are spring tempered, and slightly thicker.  I use rules in all three thicknesses.  All work well.  I would recommend starting with the spring tempered thickness.  (I would not turn down any thickness found used at a good price.)  These rules also make a reliable straight edge.

The rule I would recommend is the C604RE-6.  The code indicates satin chrome (C); spring tempered (6); 4R graduations; end graduations (E); and six inch length. 

4R graduations mean the rule's four graduation lines are graduated in quick reading (longer hash marks for coarser increments) eighths, sixteenths,  thirty seconds, and sixty fourths.  Having the accuracy of sixty fourths is nice.  Much work can be done with the eighths or sixteenths.  Starrett also makes several other graduations for different applications.  A common one is 16R: meaning 50th, 100ths, 32nds and 64th.  These rules would be more useful in industries using decimals rather than fractions.

End graduations are very useful.  The ends of the rule are graduated in thirty seconds.  This allows the rule to fit into tight places.

The six inch length is handy for many applications.

The metric equivalent of this rule is the C635E-150.  Satin chrome, spring tempered; 35 graduations (each side graduated in millimeters and half millimeters; two scales left to right and two right to left); end ruled; and 150mm length.

Starrett also makes combined inch and millimeter rules.  It's just a personal preference; I prefer separate rules. Combining measuring systems on one rule adds too much information for me.

These rules sell for around twenty USD new.  I have purchased several, both new and used.  I use them all the time, and they make very nice gifts.

I encourage the forum members to share their favorite tool thoughts.

Ken

[Rob]

I entirely agree with accurate measuring Ken...nice post.

For my money in recent years I cant be parted from my digital vernier calipers.  They live in my tool pouch all the time.  Accurate to 100th mm and with the digital readout I don't have to squint at some tiny lines that cause me to go cross-eyed! They do hole depths. thickness and at 6" will do most stock widths too.

I can set saw blade height, transfer dimensions from spigots to holes on the lathe, router table bit heights, distance from fence etc.  You name it...they're incredibly useful, accurate and easy to use.

[mike40]

Thanks for this great post Ken. I'm sure that we will learn a lot from posts like this.

I use steel rules quite  a bit, but I'm sure they are far from Starrett quality. Mine are etched and are metric. I can't buy Starrett here. I can't even see the half millimeter marks well enough to use them. I often resort to story sticks, even when making case goods, which provides consistency, if not exactness. I do notch my story sticks to ensure that my poor eyesight is supported by my sense of touch. This helps me avoid measuring errors, which is one of my major weaknesses. This might be in part because I seldom work from plans, and I often make changes as I work on a project. Luckily the type of projects I normally do don't require precise measurements, just consistency and tight joints.

I also have digital calipers and a couple of other digital instruments for measuring angles, all of which I have found to be great aides. I use them all the time when turning and also for other woodworking projects. My only problem with these devices has been that I sometimes accidentally hit the on button while putting them away, and the battery can be easily drained that way. Maybe it would be smarter to remove the batteries after use, but not too convenient.

[Mike Fairleigh]

The C604RE-6 is one of the best values in tools IMO.  Near-perfect accuracy, top quality, great size, and surprisingly inexpensive.  I have 4 of them in different locations because they're so handy.

[Jeff Farris]

A Starrett 12" combination square in 4R graduation and satin finish has been my layout tool of choice for over 30 years. It's a square, miter square, depth gauge, marking gauge, height gauge and ruler all in one. The 4 inch version is the perfect machine set up tool.

So we've given Starrett some love, I want to mention a destruction tool that goes along with the construction tools. There's a company in Sweden that makes arguably the best wrecking bar in the world. The company is Granfors Bruk and the bar is the Tove Bar, available in several sizes. Granfors Bruk also makes some of the world's finest axes.

[Ken S]

Jeff,

These look like the Volvos off wrecking bars!

Ken

Ps Starrett combinations run a very close second to the rules for.  I would be uncomfortable without them.

[Mike Fairleigh]

OK I'm not the brightest penny in the pile but I know a call for tool porn when I hear it.

C604-RE-6, C33H-6-4R, C33H-12-4R:




Gransfors Small Forest Axe & Wildlife Hatchet:




One example of "course & fine:"

[Jeff Farris]

Mike,

Tell me about the paracord wrap on your axes.

[Mike Fairleigh]

Hi Jeff,

It's just a bit of protection for the hafts.  While I rather enjoyed learning how to re-hang an axe, I'd rather keep these GB hafts in good shape for as long as I can.

There are all kinds of videos on youtube showing how to do it in many different ways, patterns, etc.  Mine is probably the simplest.  If I ever re-do it, I'll probably do it this way, which is identical but with a hump:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Bo_51CxTKQ

I've also seen people use a section of bicycle inner tube which probably works as well, if not better, but doesn't rise as high on the gizmosity scale.