using the t7

[fraseman999]

Hi Folks,

Why is it best to stand at the switch side of the T7? I am talking about grinding not honing.

It seems to me that it is more difficult to see the blade.

Am i missing something?

Thanks

John

[grepper]

Standing on the switch side, with the control bar above the wheel (inserted perpendicular to the top of the machine), you would be grinding into the rotation of the wheel.  With the control bar inserted parallel to the top of the machine so that it's on the side of the wheel, you would be grinding with the rotation of the blade.

Grinding into the spin of the wheel is more aggressive and removes metal at a faster rate than with the wheel.  It can be more difficult to control however.

I'm sure others will chime in on the merits of grinding with/against the wheel.

Have you seen Jeff's videos?
http://www.sharptoolsusa.com/demo.php

[Rob]

Hi John

It's not....that is to say it depends entirely on what you're grinding.  The T7 is capable of being used in either mode which is why the universal support has two mounting positions ie its not just for honing

The rule of thumb is this:

If you want an aggressive grind, ie fast steel removal, then grind with the wheel rotating towards you and the tool (as you describe).  If you want a less aggressive, more controlled and more sensitive grind, mount the support on the honing side ie with switch at the back

Examples of situations where you would want an aggressive cut is in the shaping of the whole bevel if a plane iron...lots of steel being ground...you want the wheel to be cutting fast.  However, for a fine pointed parting chisel that only needs a touch up to sharpen an existing bevel, you could mount in the other side.  It's basically a trade off between cutting speed and control

Cheers

Rob

[Herman Trivilino]

If you look through the user manual you'll see lots of examples of the machine being used with different sides of the machine facing the operator.

Having the switch side closest to the operator is just the position most often used for most folks.

[Rob]

Another scenario where you would be better served grinding away from the tool is if the tool was small and pointed. The risk of a dig in with the wheel turning into a small sharp tool is much greater. This would damage the stone rendering the need to dress it significantly to get it square again

So for control and minimal steel removal, away from you, aggressive, max steel removal but less controlled, wheel towards the tool.

With honing...you always hone away from the edge...no exceptions

[Rob]

Tormek have actually produced a little plastic turntable so you can switch from one position to the other without having to keep picking up the heavy machine. It rotates through 180 degrees and then locks into a detent at exactly the opposite position. I must say, I rather fancy buying one myself...they look dam handy

[Mike Fairleigh]

...a little plastic turntable...they look dam handy...

They are.  It's right up there with your favorite jig and a small square.  If Tormek hadn't come out with it when they did, I would have already built my own turntable for it.

[Rob]

Right then Mike. Good enough for me....ill get one :-)

[Elden]

If you look through the user manual you'll see lots of examples of the machine being used with different sides of the machine facing the operator.

Having the switch side closest to the operator is just the position most often used for most folks.

John,
Up until now, I have worked being positioned on the side that does not have the switch. I do that with the wheel turning into the edge (the vertical position for the USB).
The reason I do is because I am in a wheel chair and being seated, I can not see what is going on from the other side nor hold the tool well. A person needs to be well above the machine to see from the switch side.

I have been working on fixing it to where I can work off the other side. I feel control of the tool will better from that side. If a person hangs onto the tool well and makes sure the grinding jig stays in place on the USB, sharpening while standing on the switchless side does work.

What I have done to get it where I can utilize the "proper" side (also building my own turntable for the cost of my time), is fodder for anther thread once I can post pictures.

[Herman Trivilino]

I can see how that would be a problem for you, Elden.  When I'm working with the switch side closest to me I've got my chest within a few inches of the machine.  You'd need to have the machine on a table top where you could roll your wheel chair under it.  And it'd need to be low so that the bottom of the machine is just an inch or so above your lap.  Even then I'm not sure your eyes would be far enough above the top of the machine.

[Rob]

I sometimes wear a chest apron when I'm on the opposite side to the switch to avoid that wet wheel rubbing on your clothes syndrome. That was particularly true of the svh-320 planar blade jig

Didn't realise you we're in a wheel chair Elden.....now I'm even more impressed with your sharp edges :-)

[fraseman999]

Thanks for all the replies.

I maybe didn't put it across very well.

Say i want to move a lot of steel, well ok i am going to grind into the edge. My jig rest is going to be perpendicular. Why stand on the switch side?

I cant watch the cut as well on that side. So i am assuming there must be a reason to stand on that side.

Why?

Maybe i am splitting hairs, but its the only way to get the best out of my new machine.

John

[Rob]

You can stand on the switchless side John. You certainly can see more and if it feels comfortable for you then go for it

The issue is pressure and control. If you stand above, looking down onto the chisel/ plane iron then you can really get your weight and centre of gravity over the blade. By doing so you push it quite hard into the grindstone. Thus it cuts faster and you move more metal

I do this when I'm shaping as opposed to sharpening. Shaping is harder work, lots of metal removal, you're not too worried about finesse. You're maybe changing the whole bevel from 25 to 30 degrees.  Sharpening happens at the 1000 grit, its finer, less pressure, its about control, refining the scratch pattern etc. This lower intensity activity takes off much less steel. You're just touching up an existing edge

I think most people find that when you want that extra downward bearing pressure then standing on the switch side gives you the natural gravity advantage. Standing on the other means you almost need to pull the tool into the wheel.  One might argue that's less pressure and control

The reality is you should do what makes you feel comfortable as long as its getting results in a timeframe acceptable to you I.e. it's cutting fast enough

[Rob]

Test photo load

[Rob]

Mm obviously did something wrong