Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.

Main Menu

Planer blade SHV-320 jig checks

Started by Taylon, October 28, 2010, 01:34:03 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Has any user of this jig noticed any play/sloppyness in the pivots on the jig base

0 (0%)
0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 0


Hello fellow members,

On my jig, prior to 1st use I noticed that the pivot pins were set rather loose and movement in a vertical plane could be detected with the support legs held against the base plate of the jig.  Is this normal?

I suspect that if the jig was used as factory set would cause the planer blades to be convex when sharpened.  Is this the case?

I have now adjusted and lubricated the pivot pins with some white grease such that there is now NO detectable movement other that of the required rotational movement of the support legs relative to the jig base.

The jig is used on a new Tormek T7 grinder and planers blades are a set of  three 10" HSS that are to be sharpened.

Any other additional advice regarding the use of this jig would be appreciated. 

Kindest Regards,  Taylon


Hello Taylon

If understand well where you are seeing that play I don't remember to notice any play on min but I will have to double check again, I didn't use it in a while.
The manual is very good in describing the procedure of sharpening with this jig, I also wrote earlier about "my SVH-320 experience" where I describe few shortcuts that I prefer but the first time I used the method described in the manual. There are few more topics even earlier whit other people seeing the light with this jig.
If you follow the manual, have a true stone, address first the worse blade in the set you will get great results. I don't remember exactly what the manual sais about the depth of the cut but I would suggest you to set it to less than an adjustment wheel gradation, set it in such a way to get the minimum possible at first and when the sharpening is done and you have a burr on the entire length of the blade you are done with that blade. If the burr is not consistent you increase the depth a little. In my cave I never went more than 1/18 of the adjustment wheel and only once I need to go a with another 1/18 due to a nicked blade. Going with less than 1/6 of the depth it's easier mostly at the beginning when you will have to feel when the sharpening has finished and also you need to get just enough until you have built that butt on the entire edge.
When you polish the bevel keep the blade in the blade holder and do it like that, it's easier and safer with narrow blades.
I hope that helps,