Goniometer - MASTER

[chino]

Thanks, I was having trouble interpreting the markings

[van]

"Hi van

I've scanned and attached the Catra laser protractor user instruction leaflet.

The Vertako and Catra protractors have a similar operation so you may find some of the info of use.

Andrew"


Thanks Smurfs,
very helpful.

[Roger M.]

Continued radio silence despite multiple emails and attempted contact via the website.

Certainly doesn't inspire a lot of confidence for a few hundred $$ purchase.

[van]

Continued radio silence despite multiple emails and attempted contact via the website.

Certainly doesn't inspire a lot of confidence for a few hundred $$ purchase.

Mine is traveling, I hope to be able to receive it soon.
Yes! actually I noticed that both with the site and with the email communications are very deficient (maybe he has problems interfacing with others)
Try to contact the German friend who put the video on YouTube, it would seem that he has excellent contacts with the owner of the Vetako.

Keep us informed.

[Roger M.]

I don't know, but I suspect they're just not set up to ship anything to North America ... so questions from potential buyers in North America about the cost of shipping and method of payment are simply ignored.
At least that scenario, even though unprofessional, is understandable.

It's too late now anyway, for those times I'm away from AC power, I purchased the amazing TSProf Blitz instead, and have already received a few emails from Marina detailing the status of my order.

[RichColvin]

I've developed a laser goniometer which can be 3D printed.  It is available at https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-LaserGoniometer.html.

[tgbto]

Rich, this is a very nice and useful piece of work. Thanks a lot for sharing !

I was wondering, are you familiar with heat set inserts ? They are inexpensive and make for a very easy way to add strong threads to 3D-printed parts. All you have to do is :
- change the diameter of the hole to the appropriate one for the thread size (3.8 mm for a M3 insert for instance, and some even go as far as making a conical insert to minimize bulgin around the insertion point)
- put these holes inside a cylinder-shaped modifier so that the wall thickness around the insert is about 80% of the thread size (3.2mm at least for M4 for instance),
- add them using a soldering iron (any will do but using the included toolheads will make it even easier).

A nice trick is to put them on the backside if you can so that the screw tends to pull the insert into the 3D printed part instead of ripping it out. You can add the modifiers as separate bodies in F3D so they will be appropriately placed in your slicer. I can make the modification for you in your design if you wish.

Many thanks,

Nick.

[RichColvin]

Nick,

I've not played with the inserts, though I've looked into them.  So far, I've found that the threads in the PLA are sufficient as the load is not high; or at least that is what I've experienced so far.

Thank you for the recommendation though.  And if would modify the design (the f3d file) to use such inserts, please do send it to me and I will add that to the documentation (and of course crediting you for the work).

Rich

[BPalv]

My son printed my one a couple years ago, prior to that I made one out of wood ( both designs can be found on hackaday.com.
Recently I bought a cheap one off Amazon.  All of them work about the same.  Good enough.
Good luck with your design though.  I use a goniometer often and believe they are a staple in my tiny little shop.