Hello Forum

[braincramp]

Well, you answered the question I have :  "so, now what are you going to do?".   

Simple, I will practice the sharpness and beauty out of many a blade until finally I succeed in getting it back to where it belongs 

[braincramp]

Ken,

thanks for the suggestion. I will check out the Boos boards, but I can't promise that I can justify the purchase of one. They are very pricey. How about making a board myself? Getting a decent piece of maple should be feasible. And since the whole endeavour got started by the attempt to get my woodworking chisels sharper it seems fitting. For the knife there is no shortage in the kitchen. I shall select one and follow your advice.

[braincramp]

Erivan,

while I am not satisfied with my results, I am far from feeling sorry To say it with Confucius' words. The path is the true destination. The two knives I showed you are safely put aside, until I feel confident enough to work them over.

[braincramp]

john,

what makes a good steel? I do have one in my kitchen, but never really got into using them.

[John_B]

john,

what makes a good steel? I do have one in my kitchen, but never really got into using them.

I think all of the commercial steels are close to the same. The variations come in length and finish. I prefer a smooth steel that I use every day when I pick up a knife or more often if I am doing a lot of prep work. Steels also come in coarse or fine grooves. These are a little more aggressive and can be useful when you are not diligent in using the smooth one. I personally do not use ceramic or diamond ones as I feel they are too aggressive and remove material. When my knives do not respond to the steel it is time for sharpening. When a knife has been properly sharpened and maintained subsequent sharpening is an easy job. I use the SG-250 with a light touch at its finest and the leather hone. Here is a good video on using a steel. His is grooved and he does not use it every time. Mine is smooth and I do it every day. If you are not using the knife much you do not need to do it daily. Butchers will steel several times a day to maintain the edge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKYPCxx20zg

[John_B]

I recently added a ceramic honing rod to my kitchen. I purchased this one which has 2000 and 3000 grit options in the same rod. I chose it as it removes the least amount of steel from the edge. I am experimenting with this new rod used in conjunction with smooth and grooved steel ones in an attempt to extend times between sharpening my knives. They also offer a 1000/2000 grit rod which I may buy at some point. So far I am liking the new ceramic rod. I have used it on my most used knives with good results.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXNV7LY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07MXNV7LY&pd_rd_w=zGgO6&pf_rd_p=c83c55b0-5d97-454a-a592-a891098a9709&pd_rd_wg=bWVGJ&pf_rd_r=HVXVS8PWVDQQMVQ43A6D&pd_rd_r=897adb47-1587-4583-a125-d53975b4e748&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVU4wNVVDRVdKQTlTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzA1NTU4MUFXUldTRkU3TTBQMSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTk5NjUzMVdGM0FVOVY5WEhUSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

My regret in this is that I did not design a proper experiment or take notes starting beginning with the initial sharpening and subsequent use of the knives. A BESS tester would also be nice but it is beneath other things on my wish list. I am trying to buy things when I have a real need and not just a desire to have it. One anecdotal bit of information; my knives with everyday steeling and now occasional ceramic honing have stayed sharper far longer than my daughter's blades. She knows how to care for hers but finds it easier to just bring them to me when they dull rather then following a good maintenance regimen.

[RickKrung]

Ken,

thanks for the suggestion. I will check out the Boos boards, but I can't promise that I can justify the purchase of one. They are very pricey. How about making a board myself? Getting a decent piece of maple should be feasible. ...snip...

Before I knew NOT to get bamboo cutting boards, I did.  Two decent nice ones.  I still use them.  They are very hard, but I love bamboo, being a bamboo fly rod maker and user.  I have, thus far, turned a blind eye to what they are doing to my knives. 

I had not heard of the Boos boards until now and I see they are made from hardwood (maple, cherry and walnut) and use face grain surfaces rather than end grain.  I didn't look at the prices as I know I'm not going to shell it out right now. 

I am definitely interested in making a cutting board or two, now that I've gotten in to woodworking more seriously.  Along that line, I wonder what the best type of wood is to use and whether I should make one (perhaps of any wood) with end grain.  Are not most butcher blocks end grain?  Does end grain harbor contaminants in a way that it is not a good choice? 

It seems to me that making a board from hardwood face grain, the surface would be too hard and counter productive.  If I decide to make a cutting board, I would like to do so such that it is the best for maintaining edges as well as serviceability.  If I make one, I would not be concerned about it being "consumed" (if end grain) as I could easily resurface it and/or make another.   

I stand by, hoping to be enlightened. 

Rick

[John_B]

Ken,

thanks for the suggestion. I will check out the Boos boards, but I can't promise that I can justify the purchase of one. They are very pricey. How about making a board myself? Getting a decent piece of maple should be feasible. ...snip...

Before I knew NOT to get bamboo cutting boards, I did.  Two decent nice ones.  I still use them.  They are very hard, but I love bamboo, being a bamboo fly rod maker and user.  I have, thus far, turned a blind eye to what they are doing to my knives. 

Rick, here is an interesting article by forum member Wootz.
http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

He found no real difference between end grain and face grain boards in edge longevity. The premise behind this seems reasonable on the surface but it does not hold up to testing.
Bamboo knots appear to be an issue as they are harder than the surrounding wood. I imagine the difference for a home user is not even noticeable.
While I have a couple of nice NSF rated wooden boards I tend to use a set of various sized polycarbonate boards more often. The primary reason for this is that I can clean them in the dishwasher. I also use commercial sanitizing wipes around the kitchen.

I had not heard of the Boos boards until now and I see they are made from hardwood (maple, cherry and walnut) and use face grain surfaces rather than end grain.  I didn't look at the prices as I know I'm not going to shell it out right now. 

I am definitely interested in making a cutting board or two, now that I've gotten in to woodworking more seriously.  Along that line, I wonder what the best type of wood is to use and whether I should make one (perhaps of any wood) with end grain.  Are not most butcher blocks end grain?  Does end grain harbor contaminants in a way that it is not a good choice? 

It seems to me that making a board from hardwood face grain, the surface would be too hard and counter productive.  If I decide to make a cutting board, I would like to do so such that it is the best for maintaining edges as well as serviceability.  If I make one, I would not be concerned about it being "consumed" (if end grain) as I could easily resurface it and/or make another.   

I stand by, hoping to be enlightened. 

Rick

Rick, Here is a good paper by forum member Wootz on cutting board materials:
http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

He found no discernible difference between end grain and face grain board as it related to edge longevity. Bamboo knots did have an impact but for a home user I doubt that the difference is noticeable.

I have a couple of NSF rated wood boards and a number of different sizes of polycarbonate boards. I tend to use these more often mainly because I can throw them in the dishwasher.