Roughing gouge and TTS-100

[Phil H]

I have had my Supergrind 2000 for years and have only used it for chisels and plane blades.
I have just restored an old lathe and am acquiring lathe tools.
Got a roughing gouge with a +-25 degree angle. Literature says +-45 degree is better.
Using the SVS-50 and TTS-100 how do I get it all set up to grind the gouge at 45 degree.
Thanks

[Jeff Farris]

The exact angle on a roughing gouge isn't terribly important.  Use the SVS-50 and set it up so that you shorten the bevel a little bit with the first sharpening.  Next time you sharpen it, do the same.  Keep shortening the bevel each time you sharpen the tool until you get it where you want it.

[Phil H]

Thanks. Will do that

[Phil H]

As a new turner this has been quite a revelation.
Got a few second hand chisels to start off with.
As per Jeff's advice slowly started changing the gouge angle from 25 to about 45. This results in a smooth clean cut with no chattering as before.
Then started on the parting tool. This was at about 25 degrees and although it worked produced powder unless pressure was used.
Reground this to about 55 degrees. Now get long curly shavings.
Maybe the angles are not optimal but they work a lot better than when I got them.
Wonder how the previous owners ever got work done?

[Jeff Farris]

Phil,

Glad everything is working out for you.  While you're enthusiastic, let me make a subtle point of distinction that is often lost in the shuffle among woodtuners.

That is, the precise angle on the tool is much, much less important than the keenness of the edge.  I like a roughing gouge with a 55 degree bevel angle.  But a tool with the perfect angle, but a blunt edge isn't going to cut.  Don't get so tied up to getting the angles right that you overlook the important part, which is that the edge has to be sharp.  Touch up your tools every 15 to 20 minutes of turning and you'll always have success at the lathe.

[Phil H]

Jeff,
Maybe a bit of misreading and I am not expressing myself that well.
I got 2 second hand chisels (roughing and parting) and sharpened them to their existing profiles - 25 degrees.
They were sharp but cutting was an effort.
Regrinding to a more obtuse angle (about 50 degrees) made a vast difference (shavings instead of powder).
From what I have read a few degrees (from the norm) either way (provided the chisel is sharp) is not a problem.
A 25 degree difference is a problem.
Hope this makes sense.

[Jeff Farris]

The difference may have be that with the edge that thin, the tool dulled almost instantly.  It is also very difficult to ride a bevel that long.