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This spring my countryman shared his unique simple way for sharpening thick knives. He designed eccentric cam for the SVM-45, which should enable to mount also thick knives symmetrically. 
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3918.msg26586#msg26586

Recently I have received a sample of this cam printed on a 3D printer. I plan to test it soon.

Jan

Thank you Jan, It seems promising,  but I hope that you or someone will make a video how to use it, because I am still not able to understand how to use it. Again thank you.
Alf.

What we are saying is that if you now flip the knife jig and run the other side of the blade on the stone, the grind line will be higher; the grinds be of different height on the sides of the blade. Thick blades (i.e. where the blade centerline is above the jig centerline) get a higher bevel on the base side.

Thank you wootz. I apoligies for my lack of expertise, this is something new to me.
I am getting the bevel higher in the front/point of the knife, as you can see from my photo, should I not get the bevel at the bottom of the knife and not 5mm higher up.
Now as you clearly explained I will get a differnce bevel on the other side, which that is insult to injury.
This is a disapointment for me after I spend € 800 and I can't get my Bowie Knife sharpened.
To tell you the truth I bought it to sharpen my working tools, but at least I was hoping I could do even my Bowie. 
I am sure that a more experience person can do it, so it seems I can't do do it to lack of my ability.
So, the Tormek it seems is restricted to paricular knives only, others with a knife like mine had to modiefy the jig, which I  do not know how.
Anyway, thank you for your help and to all those who took the time to post their advice, at least I didn't ruined my Bowie with the help of the forum members.

Regards
Alf.

Thank You Jan, for this helpfull advice.
I hope I learn by time and mistakes : 
Alf.

Hi, just to justify my curiosity, I made a dummy run without turning the stone to see what is exactly is being said.
Painting the bowie with black felt pen and simulated the sharpening path I found what will happen ( I think ) if I try to do it this way, as You all said, after all.
In the photo I tried to show you what happened, the top image is the starched line marked with red and the bottom image it is how it is without the red line. I hope it is clear for you to see.
Thank you for your time and advice.
Regards
Alf.   

Thank You Ken, Thank You Jan, for your time to reply.
Jan, this is my first chisel, ( 6.66mm ) because the T8 is brand new and I am trying to find my way how to:Having said that the grind stone is true, I have only used it for 30 min or so, closing the tool rest on the grind stone it seems it is touching flat on the surface. Regarding flatten the back of the chisel, that I forgot to do,   first mistake. Now the reason that I asked about the level of the machine is that it seems, as that the left of the grinstone is not making contact with the tool I am trying to sharpen (photo_Marked red ). Also about the scratch pattern, I am sure what you pointed out is the reason that I was having that pattern, which in that case, I am not so worried about it, I just follow your advice and I should be ok. I made a photo before reading your post to explain better about the pattern, so I might as well post it. Also find the photo of the Grindstone showing the left part of the stone that it seems is not touching the tools.(I think).
Thanks.
Alf.

Alf, I think you have reached a wise conclusion. Your knife will wait for you until you feel confident to sharpen it. You will be more satisfied with your sharpening then.

Ken

It waited for 50 years, so another one or two would not make any differnce. 
Thank you
Alf

Dusmif,
I recently sharpened a Filipino bolo knife about the same thickness as your Bowie. The bevels will be way off as in several degrees. I don't have a modified jig so my solution was to use the angle finder every time I flipped the knife over and recalibrate the support bar to the same angle on each side. It was a pain but with patience it turned out pretty darn even and razor sharp. I'm not recommending what I did. Do as I say and not as I do. Also I wouldn't sharpen a sentimental family knife (if that is what is is) as your first knife. Took me about 15 or so knives before I started feeling confident on the machine. Just my .02¢.

Best of luck,
Antz

Ps: maybe I just have a longer learning curve than others. I'm not trying to discourage you in anyway. Best of luck

Thank you Antz, it seems it is too complicated for me being a novice, so I think I better leave it untill either I find a fool proof and safe solution.
Alf.

Seeing the image I´m sure that, with the standard Jig SVM-45, you will have bevels with diferent size.
In this case is suitable to use a modified SVM-45 jig or one self-center jig.

In the absence of a solution for this, it is advisable to read this thread: https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2962.0
I have a modified SVM-45 jig and it works fine. It's not the perfect solution, but it's the best there is ...

I think too that 20 degrees per side (40º included) is an appropiate grinding angle for this kind of knife.

Regards.

Thank you Josu for this infomation and advice, I am lucky that I asked for advice, other wise I would have ruined my Bowie Knife,.
Regards
Alf.

Hi jan, thank you for your reply.
The thickness at the most wide part, because it seems that the back of the blade is not even, it looks like a tapperd back, the middle is the tickest section.
Alf

Hi, this morning I tried  to sharpen my first chisel as a test to get some training.
I noticed that during my sharpening the bevel was having a round pattern, which got bigger as I kept sharpening. I had the impresion the the sharpening pattern should be even all over the bevel.
Now, am I doing something wrong, should I do any setting to the jig, or this normal? The chisel was 90 deg withe jig, that I checked.
Another question that might be relevant to this, should the tormek be 100% horizontal, because mine the level buble is touching the right line of the center indicater.( from Left to Right )
I hope that the photo is good enough to show what I am trying to say.
Thank you
Alf.

A Bowie knife is an all purpose knife. It was all a frontiersman had for a knife so he needed it to hack small timber or branches to make kindling and to skin animals and cut meat. About 40 degrees is a good all purpose edge, that means 20 degrees on each side added together equals 40. This edge will excel at nothing but will do good with anything.

Great jeff, now it is clear, I need it for general purpose task, nothing special, the important that it is sharp  thank you.
Alf

Alf,

I have no doubt that you will be able to sharpen your fifty year old Bowie knife. However, I suggest you spend some learning/practicing time with inexpensive knives first. Jeff Farris, the founder of this forum make a good knife sharpening you tube. Search "Farris Tormek knife sharpening" to find it.

Enjoy your new Tormek.

Thanks Mate, much appreciate your advice.
Alf

Ken

Hi, I have jus received my T8 and I wish to sharpen my long aquired Bowie Knife, some 50 years ago.
Now, what would be the right bevel, and when one say for an example 40 deg what are we refering to since the knife has to 2
bevels on each side of the blade. ( chisels have one ) I am not so versed in this terminology, sorry to say.
From the photo, maybe one can see the the bevel is so small that I could hadly measure it, so any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Alf

Thank You Antz, that was very helpfull.
Alf.

Final it arrived.
Do I need to check or give any oil to the machine before I start please?
Alf

Before you start you need to oil the leather wheel in accordance with the Tormek instructions and add your first bit of honing compound. Then add water to the tray and you are ready to start sharpening. I started by sharpening some cheap kitchen knives I have for camping. You will be amazed how fast your confidence grows and how what you hear in the videos makes sense. The Tormek videos are a great start and I followed them for some time before I began trying additional products such as the FVB.

Thank You John,much appreciated.
So the shaft does not need any lubrication before first star?
Alf