Messages

Ken,

Thank yopu for your reply, this video I found it on facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/TormekSharpeningInnovation/

I am under the impression it is an official page of Tormek.
This another photo fond on same page.    But you could be right after all.

Alf.

Watching a video about knife sharpening on the Tormek, I noticed that who was doing this clamped the SVM-45 at an angle.
Is this helpfull to do so to get better results on the knife curve ?
Thanks
Alf

Alf,

My table is 22" high and 27"x27" width. It also has heavy duty locking casters. I sit on a 24" high stool to work. If I were to build another one I would make the table about 20" inches high instead of 22". I also would make it about 14"x14" width so when I'm sitting up close I can easily have my knees on each side of the table (more like a custom pedestal than a table). Hope that helps.

Antz

Thank you Antz, that is most helpfull.
Alf

Thank you Antz,
"I built a special table for it that's about knee high so I can use it while sitting. "
I have not decide yet, should I use a standing bench or sitting while sharpeneing. Now you said that you did a table knee high, what is your opinion on this with your experience using it please? Do have any modification if you choose to make another one?
Thanks.
Alf

Alf,

Check this out....

https://youtu.be/UckPmizllk0

Wootz does quite well with Tormek PA 70 compound.

Ken

Thanks Mate.
Alf

Thanks Ken, that is a great idea. will try.
Thanks
Alf

While we are on this subject, what one can use instead of the  Tormek compound for the  leather wheel that I could find local.
Thanks.
Alf

One of the many reasons I bought the T8 and not the T4 was the 30 min restriction on continues use, reasoning that if the factory pointed this out, it must be important, secondly the difference in price was so minimal that I thought I buy the bigger one, it must have more advantage's  than the T4 for sure. That is what I thought and I do not regret that I did because I found out that I have to reshaping all my chisels and plane blade from scratch, because they are so in bad state that it is taking me hours to bring them in shape again, but I am enjoying myself.   

Alf,

If your initial attempt  to modify the knife jig does not go well, here is a link to the part replacement:

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/replacement-parts-for-svm-45-svm-100-and-svm-140-knife-jigs

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/replacement-parts-for-svm-45-svm-100-and-svm-140-knife-jigs

Also, be sure to register your Tormek online (www.tormek.com). Once you log on, you can download the latest version of the handbook in multiple languages at no charge.

Ken

Thank you Ken, for the information and links, at least one does not have to buy the full jig.
I have registered my Tormek as soon as I received it last week, I think, and I have downloaded the manual and printed too.
To day I manged to sharpen one of my planes blade, I can't understand how I used to work  before I bought the Tormek, the differnce in sharpnes I can't believe it, I could not stop trying the new blade, it is joy to work with so sharp blades 
Thanks.
Alf.

Hi Jan, Thank you.
It is good to know that there is always online help for any future problems, thanks to members of this forum.
I tried several chisels  and in that regard I am very happy with the results, they are the easiest to do, I think, now I will try some of my plane blades, I assume these will be no problem too.
The knives are the tricky ones, it seems, but in time I am sure I will find a way how to do them, I am in no hurry and willing to learn.
I will start with some old knives ( not important ones ) I have and leave the bowie until I get some experience and finish your jig 

Thanks.
Alf.

Alf, J.W.Goethe said: 'All theory is gray, but the tree of life, my friend, is green.' 

I thing that after successful sharpening of first couple of knives you discover the wonderful world of sharpening and forget the initial stumbling.

What concerns your Bowie knife, the Tormek knife jig is not suitable for such a thick knife. When you mill away 1 mm from the static clamp (as mentioned by Wootz and Rick), you will get a jig for a 4.5 mm thick knife. For your Bowie knife it would be necessary to mill away 2 mm, but this is not possible because the static clamp has not enough material.

Recently I have built a self-centering knife jig for Tormek which was inspired by the Lansky knife clamp.
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3834.msg25694#msg25694

This simple jig guaranties the same bevel angle for both sides of thick knives. It is an easy afternoon task if you have a shop with drill press and a belt sander. 

Jan

Hi Jan,
You are a lifesaver, I was worried sick thinking about how to modify the Tormek jig, knowing that 50% if not 75% I would destroy it.
With your idea I am more at ease doing this jig, knowing that if I am not satisfied with the result I just try another, time is no problem for me.
I assume that to find the bevel with your jig is the same as one do with the Tormek knife jig?
I never thought that to sharpen a knife involves so much calculations, and special jigs.
Thanks mate.
Alf.

Thank you Rick.
When I decided to buy the Tormek, I thoght, well my worried days are over for sharpening my tools, first week I was a bit confused, now after trying to read as many as threads as possible on this subject: Now I am lost  That what old age dd to you. 

Dusmif,
I recently sharpened a Filipino bolo knife about the same thickness as your Bowie. The bevels will be way off as in several degrees.

This is my pet peeve, biggest complaint with the Tormek. There is no way around this issue using Tormek supplied jigs.

That is really very disapointment, as you said. I would except Tormek should solve this problem, knowing this issue.
Alf.

Thank you Ken and Robin,
Ken thank you for your advice and the attached link of your article.most interseting.
Robin, again I thank you for your lengthy detail explanation, which I am sure it would be usefull to follow, plus the drawings, which make the explanation more easy to understand.
Thank you Guys.
Alf

Alf, we've all been there with thicker knives. The fact is that no slow wet grinder, Tormek or else, has a self-centering knife jig.
Any local machining shop at your place should be able to mill the 0.5 mm and 1 mm recess for you, using an end-mill. Bring the 2 knife jigs to them disassembled, give them only the lower static part, and draw a line in front of the pins with a permanent marker to show them where to mill. It is a 5 min job for the machinist/turner.
Show them a photo from my website to illustrate what is be done: http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment_jigs.htm

For the bevel not to widen towards the tip, clamp the knife not in the center of the blade, but closer to the tip - this is explained in the Tormek manual.

Thank you wootz,for your time to post this advice and explanation. I will study your photos and I can do the milling myself, ( I have to buy another jig, just in case I make a mistake    ) because I have a milling machine along with a lath too. Regarding the clamping of the knife, it is a very good advice, I will try it too. I have not read the manual because mine is in German, since I bought the T8 fom Germany; no agent here in Malta for the Tormek.   But I try and download it and print it.

Thank You.
Alf.