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UPDATE: I went straight to the SJ-250 and was able to get the job done. I'm going to run a few more knives over it tomorrow to see if I can duplicate it, but so far so good. Thanks to everyone for their help.

Swiping down = running the blade across

What you're explaining is what I'm doing, except for the edge refinement. I was pretty much just getting the burr off (that I could feel) and stopping/testing only for it to be dull. Do you think that's the only step I'm missing and preventing it from getting sharp?

Yeah... you probably just need to spend a bit more time on the leather wheel.

Have you watched Jeff's video on knife sharpening?  He demonstrates it pretty accurately...

https://youtu.be/fYURcwkKGPs

Yes sir, that is the video I've been using as my go to. I'm trying to follow it step by step, which is why I'm so frustrated. Can't seem to see what I am doing wrong. I will try spending more time on the leather.

If you are searching for good instructional materials, the best source is the handbook. It was written many years ago by Torgny Jansson, the engineer who invented the Tormek. Unfortunately, Torgny passed away around ten years ago. Except for bits and pieces about new models, jigs, and accessories, the handbook has remained unchanged. The SG is well covered. Newer wheels, including the SB, SJ, and diamond wheels are barely mentioned. Nor has much video support been done with these wheels. That is one reason I recommend that new users stick with the SG.

Tormek has commissioned some outstanding technical videos over the years. The lathe tools DVD that Jeff Farris did using a SuperGrind remains an excellent training resource, as does the video that Alan Holtham did later with the DBS-22 drill bit jig. Jeff Farris also did some good shorter videos with chisel, knife, and scissors sharpening.

Beyond these, quite frankly, you will find most of the expert advice on this forum. I certainly do not include myself in the first tier of knife sharpeners, however, we have several on the forum.

One area where I find the Tormek information lacking is in grading for the most desirable grit for different tools. Tools like planer blades and turning tools cut a lot of wood between sharpenings. They need all the coarseness the 220grit SG can muster. Chisels are often used too long before being resharpened. Ideally, kitchen knives will require gentler sharpening. Carving tools should only need a delicate touch with a fine stone. This is the kind of skill one develops with experience.

Give yourself the luxury of being an apprentice. Do not expect to master sharpening overnight. With diligence and focused effort, your skills will develop. Do not become discouraged.

Ken

Thanks Ken. I have watched the speciality tool sharpening videos, but did not see anything I was missing. I'll try them again to see if I missed something though.

What I'm really looking for is a step by step guide. Unfortunately the Tormek manual that came with the machine was not that. If I can get a step by step guide, I can see what step I'm missing.

Swiping down = running the blade across

What you're explaining is what I'm doing, except for the edge refinement. I was pretty much just getting the burr off (that I could feel) and stopping/testing only for it to be dull. Do you think that's the only step I'm missing and preventing it from getting sharp?

Awesome, awesome, tips. Thank you so much!

You're assumptions are correct. The reason I was using the 220 grit was b/c it was the only thing I was getting an edge with. It sounds like I just got lucky those few times (was able to get 2 out of 4 knives cutting paper at least) on honing.

Ok, so it sounds like the step(s) I a missing are burr removal and edge refinement. I agree completely.

Burr removal - I assume that when I get a burr, that at least means I'm essentially done on the stone and need to move to the strop. What I've been doing is swiping the burr edge down slowly a few times on the stropping wheel. That usually brings up the dust, as you mentioned, across the entire blade. I usually stop here and check sharpness and it is usually dull. Sounds like you're saying I need to ease into it more. Am I taking the burr and the edge off unintentionally by doing this?

Edge Refinement - is this different than burr removal?

Again, thank you for the time to respond!

CWS

EDIT: I am good with setting the angle on an existing bevel, BTW. The marker technique has been awesome. The angle master has been helpful as well. Using one of the two, I should be good there.

I've watched every video on YouTube I can find on sharpening basics with a Tormek. Sadly, most of the videos are either short and lack detail or flat out incorrect and go against what the manual states. So, I'm on a search for some instructional materials.

Quite simply, I'm a newb to sharpening and want to understand what it is I am supposed to be doing instead of grinding away. I've gotten my technique down pretty well. First few blades were brutal with divots and inconsistent bevels. I'm good now, but the blades I have managed to get sharp are not very sharp. Perhaps some of the pros on here can help with some basics.

As I understand it, on an already profiled blade where I am just sharpening it, my goal should be to create an even burr on one side the full length of the blade with the 220 grit stone, then flip it over and do the same. From there, take it to the strop wheel to gently remove the burr (I can see it coming off). This is what I have been doing, but it's not generating razor sharp blades. 

- Should I be taking the stone up to 1k before stropping?
- Is stropping even needed if I polish it with 1k?
- Where does the Japanese stone come into play? I have one, but have not broken it out yet.
- How do I know if it's not apexed? Looking at the edge, even with a magnifying glass, it's hard to tell.

Thank you

CWS

Is the a CBN wheel equivalent to the Japanese stone? Or CBN wheel equivalent to the 1200 Diamond?

Welcome to the forum, CWS.

In my opinion, the best starting point is the SG-250. You will learn the most about its strong and weak areas be actually using it yourself. If you should encounter steel alloys that it does not handle well, at that point I would consider purchasing a diamond wheel. Others have differing opinions, however, for my money, diamond is the logical next step. Diamond is our hardest material. The blackstone and CBN are both harder than aluminum oxide, however, why not go to the hardest material? The Tormek and diamond are a good low heat combination. The cost difference is not really significant in the long run.

In my opinion (others will differ) diamond wheels have made the blackstone obsolete. My diamond wheels have cut well for me right out of the box. My blackstone has never cut well for me in nine years.

For knife sharpening, if you decide you want another wheel, start with the DF-250. It is the same grit as the DWF-200, the standard wheel supplied with the T2, which is designed only for restaurant knives. (The T8 is a much more versatile Tormek than the T2.)

Ken

Thank you Ken!! Great info!

CWS

Thank you all for your feedback!!

To clarify a few things:
- I will most certainly start out with my lower end steel knives. No way I am jumping right into ultra premium steel w/o practice.
- My biggest concern is time. I don't have a lot of it. That's not to say I won't take my time sharpening, it's just that the Tormek is faster on UP steels versus the others.

Having that said, it sounds like I should go straight to the Diamond stones once I've honed my skills. Is that correct? Will I pretty much only need the 1200 grit?

Or, should I go with CBN?

Thanks!

I'm ready to purchase a T-8, but I am in the initial stage of learning about different grinding materials for working on the higher end blades I have (S110V, S90v, M390, etc.). I'm not new to knives, but with a ton constantly on my plate, I've yet to even get kind of good at sharpening on my Sharpmaker. I typically just send them into the factory to be done.  :-( No more though. I'm jumping right in and want to get it down. So, yes, sharpening newb and I have some questions.

I've learned that the standard SG-250 is probably not the best stone for these harder materials so I wanted to ask the forum pros what I should be using. I see that a lot of people like CBN. Is that going to be better overall or should I just be looking at the Blackstone (SB-250) or the Diamond wheels?

I've gone through and searched a ton of threads, but it's leaving more questions for me.

Thank you!
CWS