Gentlemen, I do not have as much experience, possibilities or resources as many of you, but I have been using my tormek T-8 for more than a year and many years in sharpening with different methods, and I have had to sharpen knives of more than 2.5mm. thickness that I understand is the standard groor of a kitchen knife, for which the tormek plates for long and medium knives were destined.
I can not buy a replacement template so easily, I live in South America, and that would involve at least 20 days of waiting, higher extra shipping costs, and I can not afford to try to engineer my jig and take the risk of it going bad.
So in my case I did something that took only 2 more seconds when I sharpened both sides of a 4, 5, or 6 mm thick knife.
This is what I usually do:
If for example I'm going to draw a 20 dps edge, with the tormek turned off, I measure any of the 2 faces of the knife mounted on my template svm-45 or svm-140 with my tormek anglemaster template at 20 degrees, and with a permanent marker fine tip, I mark a line on the stone SG-250 where the edge of the knife rests on the stone, step then, I turn the knife to the other side, that we all know that will not be touching that line, because the knife is thicker than what the jig requires, then I draw with a white permanent marker, the black paste base of the jig "the one that makes contact with the usb", and I draw on the jig another white line, so that the white line of the jig, is with the white line of the black round paste that rests on the usb, and with the help of the angle master I start to move the black paste of the jig that has contact with the usb until it re-marks the 20 degrees, and I verify that the edge is again on the black line marked on the stone, once I have these 20 degrees, I look at the distance of the white line of the paste in relation to the white line of the jig and I return to mark a new white line, that gives me an exact information of the displacement that I must do in the black jig dough wheel for that side of the knife, and I mark an arrow in the direction of the turn that I must make.
When I turn the knife to sharpen the other side, I just have to go from one white line to the other, and with a little more time I have achieved a correct angle of sharpening on each side of the knife.
it may be that all this is too obvious for many, inpractical for others, a lot of delay for some others, but someone who does not want to take risks, who wants to keep his jig tormek original or who had not thought about this possibility before, can reach him to serve this advice.
Apologies for the length of the message but I wanted to detail it as best as possible so that it is understood.
I can not buy a replacement template so easily, I live in South America, and that would involve at least 20 days of waiting, higher extra shipping costs, and I can not afford to try to engineer my jig and take the risk of it going bad.
So in my case I did something that took only 2 more seconds when I sharpened both sides of a 4, 5, or 6 mm thick knife.
This is what I usually do:
If for example I'm going to draw a 20 dps edge, with the tormek turned off, I measure any of the 2 faces of the knife mounted on my template svm-45 or svm-140 with my tormek anglemaster template at 20 degrees, and with a permanent marker fine tip, I mark a line on the stone SG-250 where the edge of the knife rests on the stone, step then, I turn the knife to the other side, that we all know that will not be touching that line, because the knife is thicker than what the jig requires, then I draw with a white permanent marker, the black paste base of the jig "the one that makes contact with the usb", and I draw on the jig another white line, so that the white line of the jig, is with the white line of the black round paste that rests on the usb, and with the help of the angle master I start to move the black paste of the jig that has contact with the usb until it re-marks the 20 degrees, and I verify that the edge is again on the black line marked on the stone, once I have these 20 degrees, I look at the distance of the white line of the paste in relation to the white line of the jig and I return to mark a new white line, that gives me an exact information of the displacement that I must do in the black jig dough wheel for that side of the knife, and I mark an arrow in the direction of the turn that I must make.
When I turn the knife to sharpen the other side, I just have to go from one white line to the other, and with a little more time I have achieved a correct angle of sharpening on each side of the knife.
it may be that all this is too obvious for many, inpractical for others, a lot of delay for some others, but someone who does not want to take risks, who wants to keep his jig tormek original or who had not thought about this possibility before, can reach him to serve this advice.
Apologies for the length of the message but I wanted to detail it as best as possible so that it is understood.
