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A couple of scenarios come to mind. Someone else in the house who doesn't appreciate the knives as much as you may have used a hacking motion while you were paying attention to your turning. Or, there could have been a flaw in the steel at that particular point. There are probably dozens more that I just haven't thought of yet.

I've had this happen while using a steel. The same crumbling appearance, however that was a ceramic knife, so it may have no correlation at all.

I wouldn't be too concerned unless it happens again.

Just as aside to this discussion, I have a Global steel, which isn't a steel at all, but a ceramic rod in the shape of a butcher's steel. Personally, I'm rubbish with a conventional steel, but with the Global ceramic steel I can maintain an edge for months before needing to use the Tormek.

The second one down in your picture is a spindle roughing gouge. You have the job right, but the name wrong. You don't want to sharpen that with the SVD-185. The SVS-50 is the correct jig for that. The SVD-185 is designed to create an elliptical profile, but for a roughing gouge, you want a straight profile.

#1 is not a roughing gouge. Can't tell exactly from the picture, it is either a bowl gouge or spindle gouge. The deciding factor would be the shape of the flute. If it is a broad curve, it is a spindle gouge. If it is more of a "vee" shape, it is a bowl gouge.

Watch the DVD that came with the Woodturner's Accessory Kit. It will teach you quite a lot about which tool is which and how to sharpen them.

The standard stone will work fine for both HSS and carbon steel tools. You will most likely need to order a new stone. If you get the shaft out without damaging the grindstone, you'll be quite lucky. When they get bad like that, it's rare to get the stone to come off without damaging the bonded hub.

Does it turn freely? Are the bushings intact? If the wheel turns relatively freely, but won't move laterally and the bushings are okay, yes, a few gentle taps on the end of the shaft on the drive wheel side should get things moving.

You don't have to get the stone off to remove the shaft. Remove the drive wheel from the other side, and you can slide the shaft out of the frame in the direction of the grindstone.

Herman,

The 1200 is the predecessor to the T-3, not the T-7. Parts for the T-3 will fit, parts for the T-7 will not. f

The manual for the current model will cover any procedure you can do with the 1200 and reflects the latest information. Purchasing an older manual, if you could find one, wouldn't offer anything you wouldn't have in a new one.

Baby oil is perfect. It's mineral oil with fragrance added. Makes the shop pleasant. 

Rob,

This thread isn't really appropriate here. We're about exploring the ins and outs of the Tormek system, not comparing it to others or exploring those other systems.

Place the pad across the top of the flute walls. Regardless of tool size, there's some portion of the clamping pad that will fit across the flute walls.

That's just a matter of grinding a bit more on the outside edges and a little less in the middle.

The SVS-32 is ideal for this style gouge.

If you follow the procedure for setting the depth of cut, and then follow through until the blade carrier is fully in contact with the supporting beam, it should be straight.

Jeff was exactly right in how to address the problem, but I want to clarify something that he seemed to be saying...if I read it right.

A little bit of lateral movement will not affect the performance once it has been trued with the TT-50 Truing Tool. The circumference of the wheel can be perfectly true without being perpendicular to the side of the stone, which is what will happen. In a perfect world, the working surface of the wheel is 90 degrees to the sidewall. If the wheel is 90.5 degrees to the axle and the working surface is 90 degrees to the sidewall, than the working surface will undulate when the machine is running. However, when the truing tool is used, the relationship to the sidewall is irrelevant in that you have cut the surface parallel to the Universal Support. If you were interested enough to measure it, you would find that working surface is 89.5 degrees to one face of the stone and 90.5 degrees to the other face, all the way around.

The long and short of it is, if the lateral movement bothers you, fiddle with the inside washer until you find the "sweet spot". Once found, true the wheel and press on. If it doesn't bother you, true the wheel and press on.

Don't know how much research is needed, Ken. If it is saturated and it freezes, it's going to crack. I've seen a bunch of them. In every case temperatures were extreme (sub-zero Fahrenheit) and the heat was turned off after a day of working in the shop. If temps are below freezing and your stone is saturated, take it into a heated area to dry out.

Jason,

Take the scissors apart at the joint. Then you'll be able to clamp the blades like right handed scissors, but the handles will be to the inside.