Messages

I think having an electric water cooled grinder moving around at high speed relative to hand grinding gives me the patience to take my time and get the edge right.  Also, with woodworking, an "ultrasharp edge" turns into a "regular very sharp" edge in no time.  In my experience, even a kitchen knife dulls from "ultrasharp edge" turns into a "regular very sharp" quickly.  I am happy with the regular stone supplemented with regular honing (without using a Tormek).

I would agree with the discussion above.  I work around the house and do woodwork but I found I never needed all the sizes of bit a set offers.  I just buy a 1/8, 1/4 and a 3/8 bit and can get all the work around the house done with it.  I really want to try the drill bit sharpener but it is not economical for me.  It looks really nice.  I am saving up to buy the wood turner/carver set though.

Knowing myself, if I tried to make a cheap machine using a non-Tormek grinder and Tormek jigs, the first machine will be way more expensive than the Tormek.  That's just me - I am sure other people can be smarter.  The second, third and fourth machines I would have put together will finally save some money.  Since I only needed one machine and nobody I know outside of this discussion group wanted a grinder, I decided just to get the Tormek and a jig kit - because there is some discount by buying a set.

Also, I am a freelancer - the more I work, the more I get paid.  So I decided to work a few more hours instead of trying to figure out how to do it.

I just cleaned my car and found the following under the seat:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52000-Razor-Blade-Scraper/dp/B0002SR88C

Probably the tool was accidentally left in my car a few months ago during inspection.  I am thinking I can use this modified, or unmodified to sharpen small knives. 

Unmodified - I would have to re-clamp my knife to sharpen the other side.

Modified - I might bend it a little bit on a vice.

I probably won't modify it.  It is a nice tool as is.

I can see the other angle too (please pardon the pun, I cannot resist.

To use very crude graphics: A  )____ blade shape should have more material than a /___ bade shape even though both has the same angle at the very edge.

I don't really have side to defend in this debate, just making trouble.

We had a debate a long time ago.  I think it was agreed that the paper cutter customer is a picky customer so you better do a good job or not do it at all.  People use paper cutters to cut photos, greeting cards etc and a small nick, which is tolerable in most applications, just would not be acceptable on the edge of a wedding photo.

I would say it would depend on the intended use of the paper cutter.  A small amateur club, maybe OK.  Someone trimming photos, no.

I actually trim paper myself a lot and find that a rotary trimmer is much better.  But that is getting off topic.

That's a very interesting idea.  Or place a piece of paper on the wheel when you do it.  I might give it a try.  I was always taught to treat measuring equipment with much gentleness and respect.

Sharpening is important but also consider Tungsten Carbide scissors.  You can buy them from Amazon nowadays.  I have many years of experience using tungsten carbide scissors and some of my scissors are 20 years old and still sharp.  Of course, I was cutting catgut lines and not filament.

Some tungsten carbide scissors are only $16 at Amazon.

I have never done it.  However, I have often though about just this problem.  It seems to me if you hold it in a jig for chisels, put it in slightly angled.  Like \_  instead of perpendicular, the grinding would rotate the pizza wheel and after a time, you would get a nice and sharp wheel.

The only problem with this approach is perhaps you have to do some experimenting and ruin a few wheels before figuring the right way.

For myself, my chef's knife is like a razor after going through a tormek, so I have no need for a pizza wheel.  I dropped a cheap steak knife once, the tip stuck into the wooden floor.  Everything is very sharp in my house.

Just me commenting.  I hope somebody with experience can help you.

I am sure  somebody will tell you the official line.  I don't know.

But don't feel bad. Based on the geometry, most of the grinding ability, most of the stone, is on the outside.  If you used up the outside, you have used up most of it.

3M Sanding Sponge, Extra Fine, 3.75-Inch by 2.625-Inch by 1-Inch, 3-Pack

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Sanding-Sponge-3-75-Inch-2-625-Inch/dp/B00004Z487

I am using carbon knives at this time, I was taking a break, so then I used it all over the blade and got it nice and shiny too.  I've been overworked lately so I'm doing strange things during breaks.  FYI, I am self employed, so I am not cheating on my time.

I love my T7.  Use it all the time because I like to keep my blades razor sharp.

I also use a fine diamond coated honing rod between sharpenings in the home. 

Today I had a dull knife in the office.  I use it to cut fruit but it has gotten too dull. I was thinking about taking it home but then I also had a find sanding sponge from 3M.  I gave it a try.  The sanding sponge worked wonders. I'm no good with a sharpening stone but the sanding sponge got my knife sharp in no time.  I dare say it is better than the diamond coated honing rod.  Just sharing.  Has anyone else ever try this?

I have a rather aggressive air-powered sander.  I don't use it much because it really uses a lot of air.  I suppose you could rig up a way to fasten the stone to the sander, and then sand it down on a wet cinder block or some other surface.

You are right.  This is not my problem so I am actually not going to do it.  But if it were my problem, I can clamp the stone to my quarter sheet sander (using a clamp for sharpening stones) and then I can start electrically sanding my neighbor's sidewalk.  I don't have a sidewalk outside my house.

Thanks for the tip. 

Just chatting here.   I think the major problem is that while I can think of a number of ways to jig up a motorized something or other to flatten stones, it might not be cost effective.

I can figure out a number of ways to jig up the tormek to flatten a stone that is supposed to be flat.  A jig like the discontinued shaper jig would work - you would need two universal supports and some wood.  But, the Tormek stone is not cheap so I don't think that is a viable choice.  It would work because it is at least a wet system so you don't have to worry about heat.  Also, I don't know about the relative hardness, maybe the Tormek stone will be much reduced before the rectangular stone.

A dry system like sandpaper, grinder, etc would generate too much heat and use up too much sandpaper.

I have no solution except to note that a solution is difficult.

As soon as you sharpen, iron will be introduced into the trough.  Then, rust will develop.  Iron oxide and iron ions will be in the water.  Also, the grinding stone is probably some sort of calcium magnesium silica type compound (complexed in different ways and different hardness than a pure compound) and each of these elements will be introduced into water.

Our water is basically sitting on stone (reservoir, lake, stream, underground) before we drink it.  If you drink from an underground aquifer, the water has been sitting on stone for a million years. 

So I doubt any drinkable water can hurt the grinding properties of the stone.  All bets are off if you use orange juice or milk.