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I think it's really annoying to sharpen many filet knives, the ones that has a recurve, like the one below. I have old wheels that I have rounded for knifes like this. But is there a reason for this shape on (some) filet knives?

My guess is that the negative curve is there for aesthetics and that the often flexible blade needs some support, which a straight blade wouldn't give?

This must be an issue for other sharpening scenarios and not only on Tormek. I have tormeks diamond wheels and want best possible sharpness on filet knives for obvious reasons.

Hi all,

I have two Tormek diamond wheels, course and fine. I also have SG-250 wheel which has never been graded course, so it still has the 250 mm dimension since I only use it as the final step after the diamond wheels, used as Tormek Japanese water stone, if you will, but with courser grit.

Many times DE-250 (grit 600) is the final step, this give me good enough result.

Wanted to ask you all if you see any reason to have the 1200 grit diamond wheel, as long as my SG-wheel keep it's dimension but also remains true?

To my eyes the result from SG-250 (graded very fine, with a finer grit than the fine git side of the Tormek grading stone) gives a beautiful edge to finalize on my leather wheels.

Is there any practical or theoretical pros with using diamond (or CBN) as the last step of sharpening super steel's like m390, rather than traditional aluminium oxide stone?

I I'm aware that deburring on diamond can give high vanadium steels better edge retention.

Thanks!

Maybe a stupid question, but has anyone tried using diamond wheels without the agent and after each sharpening session make sure to dry the wheels with a hairdryer and towel?

Hello all,

I got a good deal on these two Tormek diamond wheels and do mostly knife sharpening for myself, friends and colleagues.

While waiting for the wheels I thought I'd ask here if anyone has experience skipping DF (fine) the stone between the two? I know the scratch pattern differs from the original stone, with which I often go from course to the leather wheel.

I have owned DF (400 grit) once and found it very effective and thought I'd try jumping from 360 (DC) to EF which I believe is 1000 grit, before going all in on three wheels.

Much interested in your thoughts on this.

Cheers!

I'm a tormek newbie and would say that my SP-650 is very young. I have noticed that it takes longer to achieve low grit than it did when it was new. The fine side still seem to be as effective as it was when it was new. I can clearly see the coarse side of the SG is getting more shiny. Is there a easy way to get the rough side back?

I have a 8" 150 grit diamond plate that I got from a respectable knife shop in Stockholm. This shop sells fancy kitchen knives and Shapton stones and the 150 grit diamond stones is for stone flattening. The thing is that it is way more effective than the coarse side of SP-650. I apply very light pressure  when grading and the result is really good. It seem to hold up well for this particular use, way better than my DMT DiaSharp stone, that got big shiny spot when it touched the SG-250. Im very skeptical towards DMT after this.

I suspect that the light pressure used with my diamond stone doesn't get me all the way to 360 grit, but very swift to maybe 5-600 grit. This might sound strange, but even if the result from the diamond stone gives somewhat higher grit, it feel so much more aggressive, in a good way, compared to what i get with a new SP-650.

SP-650 might be the best allround grader in the long run, but when it comes to sharpen and re profiling knives with 58-60 HRC, the 150 grit diamond stone has been great.

 I'd love to hear your thoughts on this.

Thanks!

Hello!

I have a few questions on these accessories.

Both have this platform which i'm interested in, since it seem very versatile. It would let sharpen chisels, planar blades, scissors.

What i don't know is how well or bad planar blades is with a concave bevel? I'm currently using my works sharp belt sander for dito, which gives me a convex edge and that works great.


I could either go for the SVX-150 to get this platform, which of course will make scissor sharpeninig easier, or would you say that the SVD-110 is a better candidate when it comes to alround tasks on Tormek?

I know my question is a bit vauge, but if someone that has experience with both would care to elaborate, i would be thankful.


What i do know is, that i won't do very much scissors shapening, but rather giving my chisels a deasent edge.


Thanks!

Hi,

I can not not find out what the difference is between the two, all i could find was that the 103 weights 74 grams and the 105 72 grams. I know that 105 is for the larger models.


The reason for asking is i'm considering MB-102 for my T4 and would like to have a second US mainly for MB-102.

Can someone fill me in?


Thanks!

Hello all!

This is my first post here. I have been into knives for a short while and found my self getting even more into the world of sharpening knives, or anything one can get sharp. I have already tried a couple of sharpening systems, as Work Sharp (Ken Onion) and a few guided rod systems as a Hapstone R2.

None of the above ways to sharpen knives made me impressed, which pushed me to try a Tormek before giving up. Or not a Tormek, but an ugly rip off from a place called Jula. Almost every part of the unit was a copy of the T4.

This way of sharpening knives was a game changer, fun, controlled and very effective, if it wasn't for the wobbley wheels, ratteling from the inside of the housing, a almost circular leather wheel that refused to absorb any sort of compound. The USB only reminded of 90 degrees and even a newbie like me suspected that the knife jig would be better off without the slope towards left.

The best of me did in fact get the KJ-45 which made clamping a blade perfectly centered and firm, a breeze. The clone was returned, lesson learned and i was proud T4 owner.


I just have one issue, which i believe is connected to the diamond wheel i got yesterday, since the water stays in the trough with the original stone. The fact that i sharpen knives, rather than chisels, maybe is amplifying the problem when the water travels across the blade and falls outside the trough.


I have searched the forum but didn't find a soulution and i was hoping that someone here has found some sort of workaround.


Thanks!

PS. The DF-200 cuts beautiful!