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My new kj-45 jig seems to bow in the middle. It's a bit hard to photograph, but to me the gap is less at the ends than in the middle. Anyone else see this? Will it have an effect?

I'm travelling through the USA at the moment, and I picked up the new knife jig. I need to get though TSA soon... Does anyone know if I will be able to bring it in my carry on bag?

I have an old pair of tin snips that I have got very sharp on the Tormek, but these seems to be an issue that they cut great down by the tips, but as the material moves closer to the pivot point, it cuts less and less...

It this an issue with the sharpening or more likely are the blades bent and just not meshing properly? (the photo is an example of what they look like... not the actual tool...)

I had a very frustrating sharpening session today. A friend asked me to sharpen her machete and I did this using the scissor jig  mod that most of you will know. That worked great. The problem was because of the length of the machete a lot of water kept dripping on top of the machine and managed to get on the drive wheel and cause it to slip

I kept stopping the t-8 to dry it off and then the next issue occurred. The power switch would not stay on! It would only stay on if I held the button down. As you can see from the photo, there is definitely moisture behind the protective plastic, which I assume is there to prevent this.

Questions: was the switch issue due to water getting in?

How do you prevent water dripping over the top right side of the machine and keep it off the drive wheel?

Anyone got a method for sharpening those adjustable circle cutter blades?

I have used the SVH-320 twice and while the results have been acceptable to me, I can't help thinking that the instructions don't fit the hardware...

The manual says to use the knob in the back to set the angle and then to use the micro adjust wheels to lower the platform to create a gap between it and slide carriage..

To me it makes more sense to set the angle with the wheels and then back off the the back knob to create the gap.

The back knob pushes in the centre of the platforms and thereby moves it level.

When you turn the wheels, you are always guessing how much to move them to keep the whole thing level.

It seems better to me to introduce the gap via a single knob rather than trying to keep the two micro adjusts equal.

Or am I thinking about this wrong?

I was wonder if anyone has found an alternative for the TT-50 Diamond Bit? That part seems very expensive for what looks like a few specks of industrial diamond...

Just a quick search on aliexpress turns up very similar looking bits in the $5 range...

Also: why random specks and not a single point?

I know this may be sacrilegious to many, but has anyone tried using a Tormek to sharpen a Japanese plane blade? Interested to hear about what worked or didn't...

There are multiple videos on YouTube that show Japanese black smiths using big, wet, stone wheels during the the production of plane blades.

I would be interested to also hear about  experiences with Japanese chisels on the Tormek as well.