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Hi guys,

This is how I finish serrated knives. Works much better than expected.

Its freehand, and have access to leather honing wheel as well.

Its just M12 rod with coupler.

Made two versions, 20 and 33cm, to match knife length and depending on which side are serations to clear handle.

Thinking to make adapter so i can remove bigger wheel and have access to tiny wheel for pocket knife serations.

Always nice to use Tormek original accessories.

Hi guys,

Bought US-430 for extra long knives or 20/25 dps angle knives.

It was rusted around weld points.

So I complained to dealer, they opened another box and same issue.

I also reached out to Tormek support and they said I need to swap USB.

So dealer sent me new one.

Looks like they sanded rust sports and because it did not look nice, they sanded all around top bar.

Sanded area drags knife jig, it's like hitting brake once you reach that area.


Well, main issue is that both of them are around 1.5-2mm lower at the far end. They are not square.
So if I remove micro adjust, put them against each other I can see 3-4mm gap.

Which means if you sharpen really long knife USB height is 1.5mm lower by the time you reach tip.
And problem will be only on one side only.
1.5mm lower USB means angle will be ~2 dps lower which is not cool.

Checked both of them and they both are bent around threaded leg weld area. I guess welding forces are doing their job ?


I wish they made US-105 but with 5cm longer legs as it can sharpen pretty long knives anyways but has trouble going higher angle as legs are not long enough.
US-105 welds are so nice and it's perfectly square.

I think I'll get another one US-105 and use 430 only when absolutely needed.

This is my ~10th knife I did on my new T8.

I have all three diamond wheels and for all of them I did progression from coarse (grind while signs of burr) -> fine (2-3 passes) -> extra fine (2 passes) and finishing on leather wheel with Tormek paste.
All knives were previously done on worksharp ko blade grinding attachment.
Probably did not have to use coarse wheel, but wanted to run in diamond wheels before jumping on more expensive knives.

Around 8 knives out of 10 could slowly slice/cut Rizla Green paper both horizontally and vertically.

Here is photo of what my 15dps victorinox pocket knife can do to free standing hair. I left 2-3cm of hair free standing and tried to cut it. With steeper angle it cut it clean but when slicing at 10-20 angle it did what's in photo.

I guess it's sharp enough ?

Not bad for stock Tormek and such a toothy edge.

Hi guys,

Did ~6 knives on DC/DF/DE wheels as run in and noticed that water trough still contained shiny diamonds when I did last two knives.

As per instructions - no pressure, only weight of the blade. (Took me ~10 passes on coarse wheel to get convex worksharp 18dps edge down to 15dps on German mid range steel knife)

Anyone else noticed that ? Is it okay ?

I think coarse wheel is one loosing the most, as it feels now more like fine wheel when it was new.
It still has factory edge on front which is day and night compared to the top.


Out of 250ml of acc water, I lost probably half during long chefs knife sharpening.
Made this little device which fits snugly between FVB and handle and easily can be removed to pour water back in trough.
This fixed water spillage to only few drops when I swap wheels



Also made my own FVB out of 50x25x3mm aluminum.
I did offset it by 17mm so it's in the same plane as vertical which brings it perfectly in the middle for both wheels.

Hi guys,

Anyone noticed different clearances for different versions of SVM45 ?

Bought T8 few days ago with 2 x svm45 and one svm140

First I noticed that 140 is much larger but it's much lighter.
svm45 is 300g+ while svm140 is 200g+.



I checked depth from handle top to static clamp.

For svm140 it was 7.35mm
For svm45 it was 7.35 and 7.05

I triple checked and got same results. I checked if handle was bent, but did not look like.



Then I noticed small numbers stamped on each jig part.

Jig with 7.05mm depth: static part number is 1, other part is 4
Jig with 7.35mm depth: static part number is 2, other part is 3

Anyone else noticed that ?



Which is not a bad thing, as perfect knife for first jig will be 2.1mm thick and 2.7mm for other jig.
More choices when I'll need to shim (layers of tape) to get blade more centered in the jig.