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Online casher50
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Re:Highly polished bevel with a toothy microbevel.
« Reply #13 on: Today at 12:38:49 am »
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I am experimenting with putting a toothy microbevel (edge) on a bevel polished up on a SJ (4000) wheel. This should be the best of both worlds: a beautiful bevel with an edge that cuts tomato skins cleanly.

Do this by:
Step1: Polish the bevel to a high shine with a 4000 grit Japanese Water Wheel.
Step 2: Establish a microbevel: Make the edge toothy by sharpening just the edge of the polished bevel with a coarse stone like the original 220 grit Tormek wheel. This will likely require using the marker method and making one or two light passes on each side. Most likely little or no deburring will be needed.
Step 3: Test results.
Step 4: Repeat and refine as needed.

I recently bought a Japanese Water Wheel (JWW) and use it all the time. I have heard people refer to a JWW as an unnecessary luxury that has very little practical use. I disagree!  Any knife that is just dull enough to need grinding but just barely, the JWW will take care of the problem. Although 4000 grit does not remove much metal, it does remove some. Any knife that will not respond to stropping or other edge refining techniques but is other wise pretty sharp can have new burrs created by the JWW while grinding away only tiny amounts of metal. At the same time the JWW produces beautiful mirror finished bevels.

Those of you who have JWWs and have not used them much might consider give them another try. You might be surprised at their practical utility.

I just got my T4 about a week ago and love it. There is so much to learn and I am excited about learning it. I have been sharpening knives (all my own) for about 2 years and usually apex the blades on a 1x30 belt sander and remove the burr with a paper wheel. This works about 75% of the time. However, I frequently get large "positive" burrs that I cannot seem to get rid of. I've tried everything that I know of to solve this problem (I've watched countless YouTube videos, read books etc.) Nothing works.

Now my first Tormek related question.
      1) I have unintentionally created a couple of these "impossible" burrs on my T4 and have the same problem. The honing wheel will not remove the burr. What do you suggest?
      2) Will any light machine oil work on the honing wheel (3 in 1 oil perhaps) and how often should I apply it?
      3) How often should I apply the grit cream to the honing wheel and should I let it soaking for a while before using the wheel?
      4) Since the grading stone changes the grinding wheel from 220 to 1000 grit, does the wheel's grit vary between the two? In other words, at some point is the grinding wheel's grit rating say, 600 or some other           in-between grit? If so, how would we figure out what it actually is?

I am excited to be a Tormek owner and a member of this community. I'm sure I am going to have many more questions and am looking forward to learning from each of you.