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I just finished my second session sharpening 13" DeWalt blades.  It occurred to me that no where can I find which grit to use.  I have been doing the 220/1000 method.  Is 1000 good enough?  Presumably, if the sharpening has been done correctly there is nothing left to sharpen without a readjustment.  None of these edges exhibited nicks.  If they did I am sure there just would not be enough blade material to remove them.  Your hint about honing using the holder was brilliant!  Thanks.

I had posted a question to Jeff concerning angles on DeWalt planer blades and couldn't wait for the answer.  I jumped in gave it a whirl.  The short story; it worked great.  I have three cuts on my right index finger to prove it!  I also used my grader advancer for the first time to prepare the stone.  What a tool!  I highly recommend one.

The biggest problem I had was setting the angle.  The cutting surface on these blades is very small and it was difficult getting it right.  Once I got by using the felt pen marker method and setting the depth it was a breeze.  The really nice thing about this jig is that once you get the first edge where you want it, the remaining blades are trouble free.  I wasn't sure they were"sharp" enough so I checked them against a brand new set I has just bought by just feeling the edge.  The Tormek job as sharper!

The water mess wasn't that bad.  I did tilt the motor with a piece of 1/4" plywood under the base and it did help.  I think that I am going to remove the mechanical stop.  I have 13" blades that I need to sharpen and now that I know how the carrier works I don't think not having it in place will be a problem.

One last note.  I hate honing!  I just don't have the "feel" for it but I try my best.  Honing these VERY sharp, flexible, long blades is dangerous.  It took me a while to get it.  Make sure you aren't too aggressive with pressure because if it catches it may very well cut you!

Jeff, I am about to start my first sharpening my DeWalt planner blades.  As you know they have two angles.  The cutting (edge) angle surface is very small on the original blade.  Behind the first angle is another angle that constitutes the remainder of the angle combination. Using the felt pen method for identifying the correct angle should I mark only this small (leading) edge and grind it?  I hope this question is clear.

Jeff, thanks for your speedy response.  I think you are right, I need to relax  a little.  Personally I like the "existing angle and flet pen" approach.  Obviously this is a matter of preference.

Now I have yet another question about setup.  My brother-in-law gave me one of his plane blades to sharpen.  It's a big one so it was easy to "measure stuff".  I found out that the cutting edge is not perpenticular to the side of the blade; it has a slight bevel.  I suspect he created this bevel trying to sharpen it himself on a bench grinder.  In this situation do you go ahead and align it the side of the blade against the stops on the jig and grind unitl the edge is perpendicular to the side of the blade?

Jeff, I have been using the system for a while now and have some questions concerning mounting the tools for sharpening.  I measure the angle with the Angle Master and as expected they are 25d.  I mark the bevel with a felt pen, set the angle with the Angle Master and then sharpen for a rotation or tow to see where the sharpening will occur.  I have yet to have it match the setting.  Usually I have to raise it a bit to get a more uniform removal of the felt pen marking.  Anything wrong with this approach or what MAY I be doing wrong during the setup.  Another question bout the Angle Master.  The surface that lays against the blade is slightly convex.  Do I place the Angle Master against the stone and then adjust the height until the blade touches Angle Master or do I actually place the Angle Master on the back to the blade?

The other problem (?) I am having is setting the blades in the jig so the edge of the blade is sharpened all across the edge.  I sometimes have to skew the blade to get it uniform.  For example if I am sharpening a plane blade and I push against the right stops,  one of the left or right edges aren't sharpened (using a felt pen to indicate the sharpening pattern).  Should I not be worrying about this and sharpen until the bevel is uniform all across the edge?

All these questions aside; am I making too much ado about nothing?  I get them sharp but not the way "the instructions indicate".

Thanks for the new video layout.  I was able to download them nd I look at them EVERY time begin a session.  Thanks

What does the diamond grinder accomplish?  Making a stone flat across the face of the stone and/or concentric (not out of round)?  I ordered the diamond grinder because my wheel is out of round but thinking "not flat".  I know the wheel is out of round because I can turn the wheel by hand with the universal stand close to the stone and it rubs the stone for about 40 degrees of rotation and does not rub the rest of the stone.  Is "out of round" ok?  I think I got confused between a "flat stone" as opposed to an "out of round stone".  Help!

I promised that I would post the results of making a lazy susan to turn the tormek around for different grinding needs.  I just finished it today and it works very well.  Now I don't have to lift the machine and at the same time spill water!  If you are interested, email me.

I don't know about you, but lifting that monster and rotating it to use "the other side" is tough.  I keep spilling the water!  I came up with an idea that has not been tested yet but I will post the results when I have finished it.  Here's the idea.  I took two pieces of 1/2" melamine about 13" square.  I will sandwich a "lazy susan" roller bearing assembly between them.  I will drill a hole the top board at opposing corners.  The lower board will be drilled at the same point in just one corner.  I will use a pin to stop movement while in use.  If I need to rotate the machine, I will remove the pin, rotate it 180 degrees and re-insert the pin.  I am waiting for the "lazy susan" to finish the effort.  I do not know how stable the results will be.  If it's stable enough great, if not, oh well I tried.

Ok, I have sharpened several knives now and I have to say they are sharp!  I have had problems with keeping the bevel uniform across the blade, specifically at the rounded tip.  I lift the knife as I come to the rounded tip but the bevel seems to widen.  I read the owners manual for this process and it points out that the position of the knife (left to right) determines the uniformity of the edge.  Is there a trick to positioning the knife to maintain a uniform bevel width?

Jeff,
My system is about one week old.  I have sharpened about three pair sicssors and four chisles.  I noticed yesterday that that the stone is out of round.  I determined this by moving the tool rest close to the wheel and turned it.  It does have a high spot.  Is this normal so soon?

You mention that the 2006 is prepared for the US market - cord set/motor.  I have a 2000 AND the micro adjuster.  In fact, other than the micro adjuster, is there any difference between the 2000/2006?

Jeff,
Are you fimiliar with Genger (sp?) sewing scissors?  They cost a fortune are are very sharp.  My wife uses them in her sewing.  She also uses a wide variety of the scissors you use for demonstration.  DARE I try to sharpen the Gengers?  A couple of them are quite small.  Just curious.

I have several Stanley chisels whose blades are 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in length.  Bevel is 25 degrees.  Can't get the jig close enough to the stone to achieve the 25 degrees.  Is the blade length too short for the Tormek jig?