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I've only just found this thread, and really like the Visual Angle Calculator. It's very easy to see where to input any changes. I compared it to the numbers spreadsheet that I put together (based on Dutchman's work) and it agrees well. Thank you cbwx.

 I've "eased" the internal surfaces of jigs using some fine silicon carbide abrasive paper wrapped around some dowel rod. My go to lubricant for sliding surfaces is candle wax, it won't attract dirt, but is dirt cheap.

The vase/file technique (draw filing) might well put some "tooth" on the cutting edges of softer steel scissors and give some immediate improvement. Whether or not the edge has durability is another matter.

I think that (toothiness) would depend on how one runs the file over the edge.  Drawn longitudinally, as depicted in the video, it seems there would not be much tooth, particularly with a finer file.  Pushed perpendicular (like our Tormek grinding wheels do), toothiness would be determined, to a great extent, by the coarseness of the file/stone. 

This is where I think finer grits available in diamond files would excel in refining the edge/apex.  Seems like this is pretty much the same as some of the "guided" sharpening systems that can produce bevels of as fine/polished character as one wishes.

Rick

I hadn't thought of using diamond files - good idea!

The vase/file technique (draw filing) might well put some "tooth" on the cutting edges of softer steel scissors and give some immediate improvement. Whether or not the edge has durability is another matter.

I think that the OP is concerned with losing the convex bevel as the wheel will give a slightly hollow grind. I really don't think that the small amount of concavity will make any significant difference.

Some good possibilities here. I wonder if a custom wheel could be made as a backer - from something waterproof like HDPE, or MDF that has been well coated with epoxy resin. It could have different grit facings on the two sides.

Nice work Mike. I enjoy using my CNC also -accurate and repeatable.

The ruler turns out better in 0.125 Aluminum. This was my first go at machining Al on my CNC, and it turned out OK. The divisions don't show up well in the photo, but are actually easy to read. 

Thanks Mike. I just cut one to a file that I made, it looks identical to yours. I used a 45 degree V bit, V carved the numerals, and cut the graduations 0.5 mm deep. I used Lexan , but I would cut a little shallower next time to get crisper lines - may 0.35 mm deep. The scale is accurate though. <y photos a little crude - done with laptop against my shirt.

Great idea! I have no 3D printer, but I will try to make an SVG file for use on my CNC. Either plastic on aluminium.

I think that "quiet" is the key. While I use a number of power tools, I get the most satisfaction when using hand tools - especially a well sharpened chisel plane or cabinet scraper. My Tormek is also  in the quiet category!

I saw this on our public broadcaster's channel here in Ontario. The same cast has done a range of historical recreation programs in the UK - agriculture, victorian living, steam railways etc. I find them fascinating also.

Here's what I made using Birch plywood and machined on my CNC. It can easily be made with a table saw also. It's set for 118 degree bits, and I can do the 4 facets also. It works reasonably well, and the greatest challenge is setting the bit alignment, which has to be repeated to get the other side of the drill. I can provide more details if required.

BTW, this is my first forum post. I've only had my T8 a couple of months, but I'm learning fast.