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thanks Ken,
I have contacted support today and I am looking forward to their response.

I have had issues with the truing jig before, at least, that was the part that was suspected to be defective (the stone was hard to get true, or not get completely true after truing) and they replaced it and things seemed to improve, I still however think my stone is wearing at an unusual rate.
Obviously the above was not as simple as asking for a new JIG, lots of videos and communication was exchanged in between myself and support. They saw myself using the machine (no worries there) and it was determined that my jig was faulty.

I am detail oriented person that notices these things, I guess we wood workers are detail oriented, it is comes with the package? my wife might disagree.

All that to say, I just can't see how the stone can last the 'somewhat' promised 'a decade' of use, if at this small rate I am at 20mm short, the stone will be all gone in 1 year from this date.
I truly do not use the machine enough to warrant this and if this is the normal wear of the stone, well... I would be greatly disappointed with the system... IT would translate in $300 yearly on a stone, which is a ridiculous amount of money for the return I would be getting out of the machine i.e. the amount of time I use and the amount of tool I sharp with this.

I have been noticing and paying attention to how mm I lose after a 2 or 3 sharpening sessions (maybe 1 iron or 2 and 1 chisel) and after truing I am easily 1 mm out.

Mind you, I think that I am very good with the machine, and what I mean is I have great control of my results (could not say the same on my first 5mm though but I can now).
I am VERY careful of not abusing the stone and I true it often and making sure I only do the absolute minimum necessary to keep stone wear to the absolute minimum, I obviously don't want to waste it.

So I am curious, and I did sent an email to support today and will be looking forward to their response.

This experience will determine one more time whether I am keeping the machine or not, unfortunately, I cannot return it now... so I am hoping there is a logical answer to this or might be looking at rethinking my sharpening setup and most likely will not include a Tormek and it'd just be ridiculously expensive to maintain --- if this is considered normal wear ---

Cheers

I see there have been a lot of replies.

I am not a wood turner, replace that last bit with worker.
Mostly handplanes.

What stone is recommended for sharpening and rebeveling plane irons?
As already mentioned, i went through 20mm of stone in 6 months, 5 mm was for learning how to use the machine, the other 15 actual sharpening and Re-beveling iron.
Even resharpening takes the iron out of true.

Note for those curious, my sharpening on the tormek, my end result is very good. I am not abusing the stone - in case you were wondering - I have 100 % control of my end result and can achieve a very flat, perfectly repeatable edge in all my irons. Concave, convex, flat. I know the machine well now and how to correct errors. Just mentioning it to get this out of the way.

In a nutshell? What is the best stone for sharpening and rebeveling Plane Irons?

I don't understand the point of using cbn wheels. My mind is telling me that I paid too much for this system if I end up using a 3rd party wheel. There are lots of tormek knockoffs that could be used with a cbn wheel instead of the tormek.

So what am I missing. Lets talk about all of this and that pink elephant too.

yikes no response to this it seems.
I was wondering the same. I owned the machine for 6 months now and I went through 20mm, the stone needs reshaping every 2-3 edges (planes irons), at this rate, the stone will be all gone in another year I estimate.
with that in mind, I am contemplating just not getting another regular stone but rather investing on Diamond wheels, with that said, I have no experience on diamond wheels and not sure what is a realistic life expectancy of one.
I certainly do not want to waste money.

Necro posting here.

Hoping for answer rather than starting a new thread.

I have using the side of the stone to flatten the chisel, I can say that I am
Not a fan. My stone now lost some of parallelism and it has a slight bow on the side, only noticeable when it is on.

I dont think I can true the side, can I?

Once I am done with flattenning the back, I might go back to a diamond stone in the future

I am new to the Tormek, and I really like it. I use for sharpening all my woodworking tools.
As a newbie, I would like to add my 2 cents and perhaps have people comment on my technique.
for the most part, I followed the manual, which to be honest, lacks a bit of detail perhaps because the makers of the tormek rely on the art of sharpening as a skill and not so much as a process.

Long story short, when I first got it, I read the manual and did what it said, or I THOUGHT I did... my blades came out with a very small concave angle, this was not obvious until you bring a square to the blade, and later on, when I tried them, the blade would take deeper cuts on the edge.

That is when I realized that, whatever I was doing, was wrong and needed to review the manual.

I did, and more concave angles resulted but the problem was mostly my technique...

This is how I do it:

I start by marking the blade with a sharpie, I run the blade and the stone by hand and look for a the grinding pattern to be as close to the centre of the blade as possible. for 2+ inches blades I have never been able to get the stone to ground the entire blade, so making sure it starts from the centre, however long that might be, it is key for a straight edge.
Then...
I simply spend more time on the edges. What does that mean? that I take 2/3 of the blade off the stone and grind with light to medium force on the corner for 3 seconds, and then I slide towards the other corner and in the next step is the key to convex edge:
You can't spend 3 seconds in the transition from Left to Right (or the same time you spent on the corner), because if you do, the centre will be grounded at the same rate than the edge but it is exposed the Stone also twice as much when you change directions. In other words, if you spend 3 seconds on the corner, you gotta move fast to the other side, ground that corner and change again fast. If you take 1 second in the centre as you move accross, that accounts for 2 seconds from the time you left the corner to the time you returned to the same corner. The center of the blade gets more time as you travel through it, that is the nature of the process.

A basically count until 4 when I reach the corner, at 4 I transition to the other side not taking more than 1.5 seconds or 1 second.

This might seem very fast at first but this is how I achieved good results and no convex edges!

If someone has a better method please share it.
I will try to perhaps shoot a video of my process if that is allowed in this forum?