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I agree, that video is abysmal. I may misuse and abuse some of my tools,  but I would be ashamed to admit it on YouTube! plus when you have new bushes in the box, why wouldn't you use them

Wonder if it may be connected to Axminster making a knock off T4 themselves

A third agreement, depending on what you are sharpening, as a wood turner where concave bevels are a problem, I would be throwing out wheels at 200mm.

Ken is spot on with proper use of the grading stone the original wheel will sharpen pretty much anything, but the Tormek like any tool does require some skill and practice from the user. Do that bit first, when you find that everything is good but maybe not quite sharp enough to split atoms, or you are sharpening so much quantity that the time to change wheels is offset by the 30 seconds per unit a different stone would make then you will also know the value of 250 over 200.

Not recommending it, and you should make sure you can get another water trough first... But can you dremel out a couple of mm from the hook bit so it hangs a little lower?

  I stay at home anyway, don't like most people  BUT we have the advantage of time, for you sharpeners there should not be a dull edge in your home or workshop, for woodturners like me all those off-cuts you have kept can now be either made into small things, or glued together to make bigger ones! race is on to see who can have a clear workshop floor. Stay safe, stay sharp, stay busy

As long as we are spending other people's money, a set of the diamond wheels would be in order.

Mike

Well if it is other peoples money, and space, then a fresh T8 for each wheel would give the best comparison 

It really does depend on what you are sharpening, but as Jeffs55 said the Tormek sharpens quite a wide range of tools, from the look of the Makita (not used one) it is for planes and bench chisels

Interesting that Spain is missing from Tormek's International pages, do they not sharpen things in Spain?

An email wouldn't hurt, Tormek support is excellent. Explain that you have it it in Austrian or German and you want it in Greek or English whichever and you may save a few Euro. 

Is it new or second hand?

If new get back to the dealer and ask for it in your chosen language.

If second hand contact Tormek they list the manuals as spare parts so one should be available.

It is worth having.

Probably not (if you mean your broken stone)... for this to apply, you have to wear the wheel down...

Hmmm on my T7 anything below 8" seriously interferes with the sharpening process satisfaction, given that my personal stone use is about ½" a year I don't think I would want to go 2 years of being slightly miffed at poor sharpening performance to get a free stone!

Think I would need a diamond grader and elastic band running 24 / 7 to eat the last 1" of stone 

Unfortunately it's for very small knives only: 70 x 50 mm - maximum size !!!

think laterally! cut the knife into 70 x 50 mm pieces and analyse it properly 

Can I have 2 please 

I am on a 150 unit production run at the moment, should have finished today but granddaughter came round and stopped work! it should be

find centres and set work blank in lathe, set tool rest.
turn on lathe, set speed
Spindle roughing gouge to make square into cylinder
Spindle gouge to shape it
Skew to finesse it
slow lathe down move tool rest, abrasive and oil it
parting tool to part it off...
repeat 150 times

BUT it is 150...  it is

Set centre on 10 blanks
use Steb centre to drive it so I don't have to turn the lathe off
Balance between centres and tighten tailstock until it is driven
Large skew to round of build curves and finesse it
abrasive and oil from behind work at full speed don't move tool rest, don't put down skew, use skew to part off
load next piece, turn lathe off only after 10 are completed

Check clock and try to shave of 30 seconds + on the next 10! plus probably a coffee either needs drinking or making!
Repeat 15 times see much less work 

All tools can be and are used beyond the design, but the spindle roughing gouge does 2 things well parallel or gentle curve on a spindle (e.g. a tool handle) it should be left for that alone.

Spindle roughing gouge is a completely different tool to a spindle gouge, my advice is don't do it! 45° flat profile if you are concerned about the pointy bits on the top risking catching then turn it upside down and just take the corners off, they won't be sharp, but you NEVER want to cut with the corners anyway!

If you want a large spindle gouge, then get a large spindle gouge! don't try to fake it with a spindle roughing gouge which probably needs a new name as it causes too much confusion as to how it should be used.... how about a bent unskew 

The bevel will remain the same after bringing the nose back far enough to remove the concave wings, concave is bad will cause catches and be hopeless at curves or scraping, straight or slightly convex is the target. at the moment the nose is the right shape but 3mm or so too far from the handle!