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 If so is there a video on how to achieve this shape using the KS-123?
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Convexing an edge is done with the KJ-45, as seen here: 

https://www.youtube.com/live/JFHqQg5wZEg?si=HOQB8o3-sP6wyQOu&t=1996

Thanks CB. I haven't bought the KJ-45 which is probably why I hadn't seen the video. I can't see doing this on a knife that didn't come this way. Perhaps if it had been sharpened enough to need thinning it would leave a robust edge.

Ken do you mean creating two outward arcs that slope in and intersect at the edge. The edge of the knife would
resemble the slope of an airplane wing. If so is there a video on how to achieve this shape using the KS-123? I normally sharpen regular steels using a double angle. For most knives 15° for the main bevel and 16.5° for deburring bevel. I have never had anyone ask for a specific grind or sharpening angle. The most instruction I remember receiving is please make them as sharp as last time.

For me Paper Wheels used with diamond compounds completely solved the problem of sharpening ceramic knives to a very keen edge.
I only sharpen what i know to be good quality ceramic, and most ceramic edges i polish up to 6,0 micron diamond compound..
For an even keener edge i refine up to 1,0 micron diamond compound.

Some examples i did about 10 years ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4YGGHltloU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6fNB_obN4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6fNB_obN4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUkKfwGFogY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSkxPA9BK8E

How prone to chipping are ceramic knives that are made very sharp with your method?

And for those who can't/won't spend that much on BESS hardware, a simpler approach with a cheap microscope and nylon wire (fishing line) can be a good burr detector : mark a point along the edge with a sharpie, set the wire down on a board, align the wire and the sharpie mark, cut the wire using a downward-only (not rocking) movement, ideally not all the way through the wire, and check the spot under the microscope. A dent in the blade will be an excellent indicator of a burr remaining along the apex.

All for under 20 bucks. Easily made even better with a support that will hold the wire taunt an inch above the board while cutting.

Like the BESS tester this only gives you a sense of a burr for one spot. I find that slowly cutting a thermal receipt along the entire blade you can feel if there is a burr. I hold the handle with thumb and a finger for sensitivity. I have not had one customer that has not commented later on how sharp their knives were.

I think honing with a jig gives you a consistent angle over the entire blade. It also allows you to do 1.5° over the sharpening angle with regular steels. I think well practiced users can achieve good results handheld but I do not think it is consistently possible to get the angles needed for exceptional results.

When I want to go for a sharper edge I have been successfully using a dedicated leather wheel with 1µ diamond spray.

I have this knife but it gets used so rarely I doubt that it will see the wheel in my lifetime. I used it more when I lived in the Pacific Northwest and made gravlax with salmon I caught or bought of the boats. Now I live in the Midwest and salmon is exorbitantly priced. I may give brisket a try this Summer.

https://cdn.hdmdknives.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Salmon-slicer-1.jpg

I am still waiting for mine to arrive. I plan on watching the video again before I use it. Looks pretty easy though. I want to find a good projection distance for most knives and leave the settings alone aftr that. Having 2 support bars will help with sharpening and honing.

Ken in your sharpening do you notice any difference when using self cneering as opposed to the original style>

You should also be aware that the BESS score can be influenced by testing technique. I never bothered to get one of the machines but instead used Vadim's equivalency testing methods to see where my edge is.

We also need to be aware that chasing extremely sharp edges is only part of the battle. At some point you need to actually use the knife in real world situations. What I found is that maintaining a useable edge is key to long term satisfaction. I keep thermal receipts handy to test my knives to see if they need some work. This is equivalent to about 300 BESS which is where many knives are new out of the box. The people I sharpen for are happy. I do have a spare leather wheel that has only been used with 1µ diamond spray. This yields an exceptionally sharp edge.

My KS-123 arrived today. I first set up to sharpen a kitchen knife using the KJ-45 jig with the KS-123. After getting it all adjusted, I then measured the projection and entered the values into Calcapp which said the USB height should be 88.6mm. Measuring this after the angle setter was used yielded 88.7mm.  I'd say this is well within specs of my inexpensive digital caliper used to take the measurement.

Even the first setup was quick after having watched the Tormek video.

Great to hear. I have 2 support bars so for knives I will be setting one for honing and one for sharpening. I will use my jig for setting the projection distance on each knife. Going this the new KS-123 won't be used too much unless someone wants a different angle.

I then used the angle setter to set the honing angle to 1 degree greater. Simple, with great results.

If you are going to get the KS-123 and use Tormeks adapter or a FVB having both the stock support and the extended one will save you some time. You rarely need the extra length but I have the longer bar set up on the grinding side and the stock wheel on the leather wheel side. This wat I don't have to move or adjust anything as I try and use the same projection distance when possible.

I like that you can also use it on the leather wheel. I have been honing at 1.5° more than sharpening angle and this tool will make setup easy. Keeping a constant projection distance between knives means multiple knives with no support bar adjustments.

I will give the toothbrush a try. I do not use the paste very often and it seems to work fine.

Watch the videos and practice. I would start with a chisel or a knife (not your best) to get a feel for the machines operation. Avoid dollar store knives; they are hard to sharpen as it is difficult to remove the burr as they are often very soft. A good test for sharpness are receipts.