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Still, I wouldn't be surprised if the T-9 had an additional set of well-placed USB holes.

The old Tormek PR-250 had an additional sleeve for universal support close to the honing wheel, I suppose this was to support guided honing.
Here is link to a PR-250 that recently was up for sale in Norway: https://www.finn.no/bap/forsale/ad.html?finnkode=245753135

I have a SuperGrind 4000 that does not have the extra sleeve near the honing wheel, I have added a XB-100 Horizontal base so I can use a FVB.

When my kitchen knifes does not perform as I wish, then I first try a leather strop.
If the edge is not OK after stopping then I use the F. Dick polished steel, Item No.74691250R
https://www.dick.de/en/tools-for-chefs-and-butchers/products/for-butchers-chefs-and-households

If that does not bring back the edge then I sometimes try a cutting steel or do a quick sharpening on the Tormek.


TM

I bought this kit last year, but it is not available from Clas Ohlson anymore
Artikel number: 50-1400
https://www.clasohlson.com/se/Universalst%C3%B8tte-US-105-Tormek/p/50-1400
https://www.clasohlson.com/no/ne/Universalst%C3%B8tte-US-105-Tormek/p/50-1400

In Norway the sleeves are available from Cial:
https://www.cial.no/tormek/tormek-reservedeler/hylse-for-tormek-t-7

TM

I think my DE-250 needs more break-in time because the scratch pattern is a little to "heavy" for my taste, I like polished edges.
The edge in the picture is around 0,75mm wide, knife is a Gerber Sportsman V-Steel (1980) sharpened on DF-250, DE-250 and honed on Tormek leather wheel.
BESS 103.
Sorry for crappy picture, I only have a cheap eBay microscope.

Cheers,
TM

I have tested both DF-250 and DE-250, using a ruler and back-lighting, I think there are one or two places that might have a very tiny "saddling" because I could see some light in the middle.
I then tested these places with a feeler gauge with thickness 0,05 mm/0,002", the feeler gauge could not fit so the "saddle" is less than 0,05 mm".
When I put the 0,05 mm feeler gauge between the wheel and the ruler then the visible light was much stronger on each side of the gauge, so I assume the "saddle" is much less than 0.05mm.
The manual states that "After a short break-in period the diamond crystals will stabilize to a uniform level",  the tiny saddle I could see might be because some diamond grits still stand out.

Cheers,
TM

I got the DF-250, DE-250 and the MB-100 from the Norwegian dealer.
I started to break in the new diamond wheels on some old Mora knifes.
Then I tested an old folding knife, kept the existing angel of 15 DPS, a few passes on the DF-250, then 3 passes on the DE-250 and 2 passes on the honing wheel resulted in a BESS of 103. The knife could push-cut Tally-Ho cigarette paper, the thinner Rizzla Silver could be sliced but not push-cut.
Very happy so far.

Cheers,
TM
(English is not my native language, sorry for any typos)