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I did a search on the forum but didn't find any answers so I decided to ask here, I have honestly tried to hone free hand and not with any success, it gets frustrating to sharpen a knife with a great edge and then mess it up on the honing side. I have watched lots of videos bit I still seem to take the sharpness out of the knife but when I hone with the USB and KS-123, my results are perfect and I couldn't be happier. Obviously, I have to keep taking my wheel off to hone most of the knives so I was wondering if anyone has bought and tried a 10 inch honing wheel and the results. I have watched some videos from different YouTubers and I am impressed watching them move from sharpening to honing without removing any wheels.

Thanks

Pondering more... I think a good place to start is the perception of your Tormek T8.

I see it as a slow moving machine with capabilities for extreme precision and scalability.

Whenever I have to strop, I just remove the grindstone and slot it into the rack just below my T8, and reattach the water trough. (I'm just using an Ikea Bror workbench and Slipakniven rack at my workshop)

It's become part of my routine workflow and I don't really feel any significant time loss when moving the grindstone and leather wheel about.

Maybe a bit of (re)organisation to put your wheels within easy reach, so you're just removing and slotting would make your issue seem less troublesome.

At the end of it all, the final product you create would make a little swapping out here and there seem insignificant, and just "part of the game".

What a great idea, I cant believe I didn't think of that. Cheers.

To add a bit of context...

For scissor sharpening on my SG-250, I would round off the outer edge of the grindstone, and "index" the innermost part of the scissor blade to that rounded corner, creating a softer/rounder starting point, before sliding across the rest of the blade.

Hence the reason why I keep sharpening only in one direction, is because I don't want the grindstone to keep accidentally hitting the "heel" of the blade, pushing it further and further back, making it look terrible for my customers.

Based on the digital microscope that I use, I'd recommend going for something where the focus/zoom buttons are not on the camera itself. Some models have a wireless remote control, and some have the remote wired.

Bottomline, if you magnify high enough, tiny movements like tapping the buttons on the camera unit creates a heck of a lot of wobble.

Built it lighting on flexible arms are a bonus too. I made a ramp (aka knife holder) using MDF squares glued onto door stoppers, with magnets attached, just to make the knife secondary bevel parallel to the lens, making focus a lot better (at higher magnifications)

I think something to consider when sharpening things designed to spin, is the balance of it.

I've never sharpened lawnmower blades before, but I have sharpened a giant 35cm deli meat slicer blade. I was very mindful to keep the sharpening as even as possible around the entire circumference, and waiting on any complaints/feedback from the customer.

From my personal experience with my Tormek T8... I see the matter in terms of matching the abrasive to the steel type.

For cheap and soft steels with low carbide content, I use the SG-250 for speed.

For harder steels alloyed with more carbides, I still use the SG-250 for reprofiling (because at this stage I'm not bothered with carbide tear/fall out), but all follow up sharpening is done with diamond grindstones (DF-250, DE-250) because I want to cut through both the supporting ferrite matrix and carbides together. Takes a longer time, but often a "Do it good, do it once" type of situation.

Long story short, seeing the dimension of grit size only, may leave you missing out on a bigger part of the workflow.

Hope that made sense.

I stripped my KS-123 down, cleaned it thoroughly, and just applied a wee bit of PTFE grease on the pivot area. So far after a few months of daily use, it's been pretty smooth.

I typically sharpen scissors left to right only, and this often directs the drips back into the trough.

I think a good place to start is to be very clear on the standard(s) that you're aiming for, and the general trend in knives you receive.

About 99% of customer knives I receive are the end product of numerous botched sharpening attempts, and hatchet jobs by other sharpening businesses.

I just reprofile all knives I get with the SG-250, sharpen with the DF-250, then strop. BESS testing is only for my top tier service (for high end knives and/or professional chefs), and for this service I go through all diamond grindstones, the SJ-250, and strop.

But my motivation may be different from yours, because my business is still relatively new, and I'm more focused on social media outreach and generating customer to customer chatter.

But yeah, I'd recommend establishing what "good enough" is, to be very clear about it, then the workflow will pretty much create itself.

I'm waiting for my 1x30 belt sander to supplement my bench polisher.

I plan to use it for deep scratch removal, before blending everything together with my bench polisher and radial bristle discs/muslin wheels. (I do it because I have an optional component of knife polishing, in addition to my sharpening package)

In future, I plan to use the belt sander to do heavy reprofiling/material removal and polishing, but still use my Tormek T8 for sharpening. My business selling point is precision edges, and not speed + quantity at low-low prices.

It's really your call on how you plan to position your sharpening business. What I can say, is if you position yourself similarly to the majority businesses in your area, then you run a tough race where you've started very late, and everyone races to the bottom. But if you position yourself differently (like how I provide precision sharpening, repairs and refurbishing) then you may very well end up running a race where there's much fewer people. If you're trusted by people as a good sharpener, then nobody will care about price.

I've been using the T8 for a bit over a year now, and I have all 3 diamond grindstones, SG-250, SJ-250, MB-102, a third party front vertical base, both knife jigs, a scissor jig, the standard and extended support bar, small knife jig, the platform, and axe jig.

No regrets at all as I've used almost all the items in my sharpening business, less the axe jig. The equipment really is a sound investment that does have the longevity and precision.

I have a 1x30 belt sander on the way to be used mostly to supplement my bench polisher, and maybe some large scale reprofiling.

But long story short, the biggest hurdle to overcome would probably be the business aspect. How you create your pricing and standards framework, and how you do your own quality management.

Customers would never cease to "amaze" you. Just today, a customer claimed a knife sharpened by me had poor edge retention, and wanted me to do a resharpening for free.

I checked my records and I sharpened his knife FIVE MONTHS AGO

I think a good place to start, would be how the diamonds are attached to the steel hub.

If I'm not wrong, the diamonds are suspended in a solution that has a metal dissolved in it, then the steel hub and solution are electrified, drawing the dissolved metal out of the solution and onto the hub. The diamonds that are suspended in this constantly agitated solution get caught up in this electroplating process, and are "glued" onto the hub.

Long story short, diamond dust is glued to steel using another metal (nickel)

If the scissor blade manages to scrape off some of that metal, then your diamond grindstone is pretty much BER (Beyond Economical Repair)

The SG-250 is much more forgiving as any gouges/dents can be graded down to flat again. It's also great for practice and doing any experimentation on.

$300 may feel like a lot to add to your toolkit, but it's good to consider what you risk by saving that $300.

I don't have thousands of knives sharpened on the T8 under my belt, but I can confidently say that almost 99% of my customer knives needed reprofiling and repairs. (they are animals)

And once your business picks up, you won't regret having a 220 grit grindstone to power through more knives quickly.

Also, I sharpen scissors entirely on the SG-250. I use it at 220 grit to reprofile/repair, then use it at 1000 grit to smoothen the peaks the 220 grit creates, leaving a somewhat micro serrated edge. (I sharpen scissors mostly for tailors, so they need that consistent "bite" when sewing)

My workflow for majority of customer knives is to reprofile them with the SG-250 graded coarse, then the DF-250, then LA-220.

To date, I've sharpened about... 140 customer knives, and only 6-8 knives did not require reprofiling and repairs.

Where I'm at, almost all customer knives have been "sharpened" with $5 pull through sharpeners, a $2 mystery whetstone, or handed to a "professional" who uses a wonky grindstone on a bench grinder.

Long story short, if you're planning to start your sharpening business, I highly recommend adding a SG-250 to do the majority of heavy lifting, and to speed up your workflow.

Most of my customers are like animals with knives. And they keep surprising me with damage never thought possible.

No worries at all.

I'm always glad to share encounters with the "special people" that are somehow drawn to me, and anything about my workflow as well.

No problem, I'm open to share.

I used to measure sharpness before and after (PT50A), but once I started explaining to customers what the numbers meant, it just went over their heads. They just ended up running their fingers across the blade, lifting it up to "inspect the apex", and a stranger one would drag his thumbnail perpendicular across the bevel, scraping his thumbnail to do some sort of "testing".

But back to your question. For my $40 higher service tier pricing, I do sharpening, blade polishing, minor repairs and ultrasonic cleaning. Typically for very acute angle Japanese knives, or ceramic ones.

I aim for as low as possible BESS scores within reasonable effort, but my results typically hover between 80+ to 120+. Starting point for customer knives vary a lot. Highest was nearly 4000, average about 400-800.

I'm gonna guess you're thinking of how to economise the use of your ACC-150 solution?

Whenever I clean my diamond grindstones in my ultrasonic cleaner with just water and dish soap, I rinse them with water to remove all soap.

Then I mount the grindstone on my T8 and spin them for a bit in the trough filled with the ACC-150 solution. I do it just to coat it with the solution, then I let it drip dry before storing it.

If you're drying off your grindstone after using just water, you'll need to access the hollow section under the plastic cover, and that is where corrosion may form without you knowing.

Also, if you're using just water, you roll the dice if you encounter knife steel that flash rusts quickly, getting embedded in your grindstone and causing rust spots all over, no matter how fast you dry it after.