Messages

Thank you very much for all the support Ken S.

I will see what to do then

Regards,
Haitham

Ken S thank you for your honesty.

I didn't notice it has to be mounted on the othe side in
such a way that the wheel will spin against you. That wouldn't
be a real problem though, because I sharpen my chisels either on the push or the pull stroke. The idea was to make the distance from the wheel more adjustable
like you would see in this Tormek class that I link below:

https://youtu.be/uNupoAP5gAU?t=759

What do you think?
Thanks
HJ

Thank you Ken!

Thank you very much John

Ken S. Thank you very much for the useful information.

I will buy that used jig of course because I have some mortise chisels with beefy
blades and I also think it's a good overall accessory.

Anyway I was thinking if instead of buying the extended support I could alternatively
use the standard support along with the multi base mb-102 to distance the jig from the wheel

Sorry i haven't explained myself. The problem is, being the tool too long, when I position it in the jig with so short distance from stone to jig and so long blade and handle remaining behind I have a lot of weight on the jig and if I use the multibase with the extended support I'm able to balance the weight of the chisel. Because half the weight will be put on the Waterstones. The other half right on the jig

Hello,

I have a couple of long shipwright and timberframing chisels. Awesome chisels made in Petrograd though.
I'm a bit concerned about if using the original setup or if I have to buy the US-430 Extended Universal Support to move the se-77 jig away from the wheel and balance it better so that the fulcrum would be around 15 or more cm from the wheel. My other concern is of what is the maximum blade thickness that the jig could accomodate. Otherwise could I just lay the back of the chisel directly on the support rod
and slide it freehand? Like I would do on a normal grinder

Anyway these are the chisels. The middle of the blade is a bit rough on the back because it has the hammer textures. But still parallel. I might scratch the rod though. Maybe I can find a little copper pipe to slide on it and stop with the se-77 lateral stop knobs.

https://petrograd-tools.com/id/stameska-plotnickaya-petrograd-model-vyatka-38mm-11791.html

https://petrograd-tools.com/id/stameska-plotnickaya-petrograd-model-istra-25mm-18058.html

First has a blade and overall length of 300mm - 550mm
Second has a blade and overall length of 350mm - 480mm

Thank you
Haitham

Thank you very much,

I think that if this is the case I will use it ever so often, so I shoudn't  worry about it I guess.
Any way if in the future I will want to start using the side of the wheel I will buy
a Diamond wheel. That raises another question that is about the coarsness of the wheel.
Which is a Diamond wheel that matches the grit of the T8 original waterstone?
I see in some videos that carver's knifes and the like are sharpened with finer diamond stones.

Thank you

next message is the right one... sorry i posted two times

Hello

In the HB-10 manual and in some videos is explained
that the side of a SG-250 (Tormek T8) could be used
to flatten the face of a chisel or plane blade.

My concern is that if I start to do it as an habit I would eventually affect
the width of the stone that is 2 inches wide out of the factory

Thank you, Haitham Jaber, Rome