Thank you very much.
What do you think if, for now, I try to stick with the stone that I have and try and touch up the bevels every now and then just not to make them build a too big secondary bevel?
It seems that if the amount of steel to remove is little I can still use the super-grind stone.
When you touch the bevel with the 5000 (I use an Ohishi 6000 - actually I have to use the 1000 first because if I arrive to the edge and look at it with a jewellers loupe I can see a ragged edge left from the stone - i don't dress it with the stone dresser, I should) do you use the hollow to find the bevel on the stone and just hone the heel and the bevel together?
There are two schools. Frank Klausz clicks the bevel on the stone to find the angle and just hones in that position so he actually hones the bevel and the heel of the hollow.
Rob Cosman after finding the angle raises the blade a bit and doesn't touch the heel.
Regards,
Haitham
What do you think if, for now, I try to stick with the stone that I have and try and touch up the bevels every now and then just not to make them build a too big secondary bevel?
It seems that if the amount of steel to remove is little I can still use the super-grind stone.
When you touch the bevel with the 5000 (I use an Ohishi 6000 - actually I have to use the 1000 first because if I arrive to the edge and look at it with a jewellers loupe I can see a ragged edge left from the stone - i don't dress it with the stone dresser, I should) do you use the hollow to find the bevel on the stone and just hone the heel and the bevel together?
There are two schools. Frank Klausz clicks the bevel on the stone to find the angle and just hones in that position so he actually hones the bevel and the heel of the hollow.
Rob Cosman after finding the angle raises the blade a bit and doesn't touch the heel.
Regards,
Haitham