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Thanks for the info Ken. 

I own a shop, a kitchen, and enjoy bushcraft.  Restricting what one retailer can sell for marketing reasons seems shortsighted.  Less convenient for me at any rate.

Not sure if its relevant, but I use the SB as a first pass after I reset primary bevels on an aggressive CBN wheel or to repair heavily damaged chisels or plane irons.  I leave it set to an aggressive grit using a 80-grit diamond plate.

I don't sharpen carbide all that often, mainly O1, A2, W2, and PM-V11, but when I do the SB works the charm.  I'll finishing the edge with the SG set to a fine grit with a 400-grit diamond plate.

Hello.

I've been wanting to get a T1 that I can keep in the kitchen.  Talking to my usual Tormek suppliers they are unable to get stock for resale but I can get them from a kitchen supply retailer (Canada).  Would anyone know why a regular Tormek retailer would be unable to sell them?  I don't mind buying from the kitchen supply place but I'd rather support the business that supported me.


Thanks. 

I've had a T-8 for a little over 4 months now, and here is what I've learned:

I run two wheels, the stock SG-250 I keep at 1000ish grit and a SB-250 that I keep at 300ish grit.  I tried the Japanese stone, which produced a lovely ultra sharp edge but mine had quality issues and would never run true.

I use a low speed grinder with CBN wheels and a Tormek grinder attachment so I can use the jigs when I reset bevels.  Don't try and use your Tormek to reset bevels, you will pull your hair out and question your investment.

The grading stone I find to be a hinderance and I was never happy with it.  I use two diamond steel plates (80-grit for 300ish and 400-grit for 1000ist) on a custom jig I made to clean and grade wheels.  Since I've stopped using the grading stone and started using the diamond plates and jig I rarely have to use the truing tool.

For the leather wheel, I use the green stropping compound opposed to the diamond paste.  Much nicer edge, easier to apply and much cleaner.  I almost bought a composite stropping wheel but since I started using the stropping compound, I see no need.

I like the T-8 now and enjoy using it.  I almost returned it a few times, but now that I've worked through the frustrations I'm happy with the results.

(edit)  I only use the angle setting tool on my plane irons, chisels, ect  when I'm resetting the primary bevel on the CBN wheel (set for 8" diameter), otherwise I use the marker method if I'm repairing or resharpening.  When you use the square tool jig for your irons and chisels, always have a small square and a small hammer on hand to make sure the steel is perpendicular to the jig.  Don't just trust the square-up ridge on the jig.

Hope this helps.

I would also suggest returning the SJ.

Returned it today.  Thanks Ken. 

Thanks John and cbwx34.

I rotated the wheel a few degrees at a time on the shaft, using label up as 0 degrees.  At 45 degrees past label up the wobble disappeared/diminished.  I've marked the wheel with an arrow and I'm hoping it remains true for the next few sharpening days.

Speaking of storage, what you say makes sense.  Is it best to store the stones flat?  And, in that case, after sharpening should I pull the wheel(s) and store flat?  I currently have 3 (SG, SB, SJ).

Thanks

 

Thanks for the information.  I'll give it a try.  I have another week or so on my return window and I really like the finish this stone produces.

After some digging about, I was told that some users determined that the mounting hole is off-centre on some of the Japanese wheels which would probably explain the issue I'm having.

I'll return it to the store.

Hello,

Recently I picked up an SJ-250 on sale.  When I first purchased it (new), it required truing and to be put into round.  About a week ago I pulled it off my storage rack (12mm peg), mounted it and it was out of round again.  Used the truing tool once again and got it perfectly round.  Mounted it this morning and was not surprised that it was out of round again.

Is gravity to blame here?

Thanks.

Point taken Ken.  All my addictions have to be non-chemical these days, so tools and the accoutrements are filling that particular void.

I'll continue with the SG and if I can convince myself that the SB is the direction to take, then I'm sure I'll post questions about it. 

Actually, I do have a question about the SB.  I've read that the SB tends to glaze the grading stone making it less effective with the SG.  Is this true?

All the best.

Thanks Rich.

Would it make more sense to invest in a few of the diamond wheels?  Since I use an 180 CBN for shaping, I was thinking the 600 + 1200 diamond wheels to round out the grits.

Thank you.

Hello,

I've started resetting the primary bevels on my plane irons and chisels, mainly due to creeping skew from years of hand sharpening.  I picked up a Tormek bench grinder adapter + wolverine plate so I can use my 8" low speed with a 180 CBN for quick material removal, then I move over to the Tormek for final sharpening and honing.

I've noticed that the SG-250 clogs/looses it's cutting speed pretty quick when sharpening PM-V11 and A2 steels.  After about a minute or so the wheel looses its bite and I redress with the coarse side of the grading stone.
 There is, of course, a slight difference in the radius of the hollow grind between the 8" CBN and 10" SG-250 which means I'll be using the SG-250 to remove a bit more material to match radii.

I realize that after I'm done, I won't be resetting any primary bevels for a long time and, in theory, I'll only need to touch up the edge on the strop wheel on sharpening day.  That being said, for these harder steels, would I be better served with a different wheel?

Thank you.

I'll post images once I get it done. 

All the best.

Apologies for responding to my own post, but judging by the pictures of the SVD-186R, the tool holder looks removable.  Is it?  If so, I'm thinking I can 3D print or manufacture a new tool holder to support my larger gouges.

Thanks.

Hello,

Is there an optional (wider) tool holder for the SVD-186R?  Quite a few of my most used bent gouges are 40mm+ and are too wide for this jig.  I did get a decent edge free-handing using the SVD-110, but if I can get the SVD-186R to work it would be more ideal.

Thank you.