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[same part number printed on your current switch]

According to the imprint, that switch is obviously for 120 volts. A 230 volt version is required for the UK.

Absolutely correct. Mea culpa for being old and stuck in my imperial thinking here in the states. 

My main point being that if you simply search for the same part number printed on your current switch, you can obtain the same part for far less money that what Tormek sells them for. The data sheet beaks down the various options by the part number. https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/140/KJD17-2199691.pdf

The other thing is that I would verify the voltage available at your electrical outlet before replacing the switch. These switches contain an under-voltage relay that shuts them off automatically if your mains voltage gets too low. (Loose connections, corrosion etc.) It's one possible reason the switch could be turning off when releasing the ON button.

I did Email them yesterday but still waiting for a response. I could fix it myself if I had the parts, there is nothing complicated about the Tormek.

I hope I don't have to send it away! Fingers crossed.

If it's under warranty, I'd (obviously) wait for them to respond.  If not, you can get a switch, for example, thru Advanced Machinery. 

I wanted to keep a spare switch here myself - just in case of such a situation. But I certainly wasn't going to pay $50 for one!. 

I bought (two) of the exact same switch assemblies for $12.82 each.  https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/E-Switch/KJD17-21213-112?qs=f57gQzlyLioCumoXaJCILA%3D%3D

Here is a link for the UK: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/E-Switch/KJD17-21213-112?qs=f57gQzlyLioCumoXaJCILA%3D%3D

Making a profit is one thing, but price gouging is another ... in my humble opinion.

It looks like amazon.com.au has them.
Knife Deburring: Science behind the lasting razor edge Paperback – 17 May 2020

+2

Thank you cb. For the life of me I could not understand how a shaft that is one micron (0.001mm) over it's nominal size could cause such a problem. Now that I have read the actual numbers for myself (0.01mm) it makes more sense. The problem with standards is, there are too many of them. But it looked like Hanns has already had his manufacturer adjust their tolerance specs to his satisfaction so it wouldn't be an issue anymore for the most part.

I have a new SJ stone coming myself in a couple of days. My only concern would be any damage to the stone that might occur in transit. Anything beyond that is all on me and I am just fine with that.

On YT is a video that the diameter of the shaft is not 12mm +0,000. It is 12,001 so the CBN discs Schleifjunkies is selling doesn´t fit to custumer machines.

Pietje

Would you post a link to this video please? I am curious now and I am interested in seeing this video in it's entirety to see exactly what is being presented there. Thank you.

[cb]

[
I would try the grading stone first... doesn't look that bad.  You might also consider slightly rounding the edges of the wheel.

I was going to say the same thing. The edges on the wheel look mighty sharp to me as well. In the Tormek sharpening videos they often stress it's a good idea to round over the edges of the stone slightly (especially for new users) in order to help prevent this exact situation. I think cb is spot on here.

Just for comparison I took a few pics of a brand new DF-250 wheel that UPS delivered to me late last night. This is right out of the box - the wheel has never been on the machine. I only found a few minor blemishes in the diamond surfaces and I don't think they are any cause of concern. None found on the outer corners of the wheels circumference at all. There are a half-dozen tiny spots (1mm - 2mm) around the side of the wheel near the center depression that are bare steel with no diamond coating. Very small and out of the way so no issue there.

There is one small 'blob' of something on the wheel circumference that looks like it might be some type of resin/ceramic material? I don't know. It runs in a line across the OD of the wheel and is approximately 8mm long and sits roughly 5mm away from the inside edge of the wheel. I don't feel any 'lump' there with my finger so I think it is pretty well level with the diamond surface around it. I will keep an eye on it to see if anything breaks loose from the steel substrate in the future.

I don't think I have anything to worry about at this point. Just FYI.
And I am certainly no photographer, so go easy please.

Hello,.

Recent Tormek buyer, I purchased the T8 and got the wife's seal of approval since I got our kitchen knives razor sharp

I was lookin at buying the DF 250 fine diamond stone, but don't see good reviews about it. Granted this thread is way back from 2018. Instead of starting a new thread, I wanted to follow up on this one so we don't have multiple threads on the same subject for others in my position.

Has the diamond wheels improved any to not have chips, and high points and truly be true? Are they now improved to be able to hold the surface longer as opposed to becoming worn out after short while?

Thank you all and very excited to be part of the Tormek community

A

I can't answer your question right now, but I guess I'll find out for myself in the future. The big brown truck is supposed to deliver a new DF-250 to me later this evening. As far as reviews go I was only able to find one negative one on Amazon and I believe it was for a DC-250 wheel. I suspect however that this was likely a case of user abuse (using too much pressure)  rather than a defective product. I have no proof one way or the other for either case. I suppose anything is possible.

---<snip>---
... but only a readjustment of the height using the micro adjust nut, which is threaded with a given pitch of 1.5 mm.

jvh

Mine have a 1.75 mm pitch? 

Hello,

that's weird, even the manual mentions graduation 1 part = 0.25mm, which corresponds to a 1.5mm pitch.

Where and how did you measure the pitch?

jvh

My apologies Jan. I was going from memory and I obviously mis-remembered what I had measured them at the first time. 
I'm afraid I suffer from a condition known as 'old man's disease' or C.R.S. (Can't Remember... Stuff.)

I just got out my calipers again and sure enough, 1.5mm between the (truncated) crests of the threads on my USB.

From my point of view, based on the tests I have done, the two methods are fully comparable, but of course, when measuring on the body of the machine, you need to have accurately measured constants. While this may take 1 or 2 hours, it is only a one-time task because the constants for the machine don't change anymore, so I see no reason not to invest a little time in it.

I don't see any harm being done by following this logic. My time is my own.

---<snip>---
... but only a readjustment of the height using the micro adjust nut, which is threaded with a given pitch of 1.5 mm.

jvh

Mine have a 1.75 mm pitch? 

Hi,

New to this great forum!  Became obsessed with knife sharpening recently, bought a TORMEK T8 with a few fixtures and the Japanese water stone, addicted to the online videos, especially the ones from Vadim at Knife Grinders Aus.  Vadim brought so much innovation, and expertise to knife sharpening...really bringing it a art form, he was the G.O.A.T!

With that said, can anyone advise me if the FVB jig is still available to purchase?  I see this as the next tool I must have for my T8.

Thanks!

As a new T-8 owner myself I found myself in the same situation. I came into this a couple of months too late for me to be able to purchase one of Vadim's FVB accessories. So I have opted to make one of my own now. I chose to go a slightly different route in materials and purchased a block of 7075 aluminum to make mine with vs. the 6063 used by KG for their FVB. It doubles the cost over what the KG fixture sold for, but I think the increased strength of the material will be worth it. Using stainless for the block would have likely tripled my cost and I felt that would have been over-kill anyway -- for me.

I did go with 316 stainless steel however for all the hardware to avoid rust issues on the threaded parts. I believe in having options if I use them or not (note the thick, thin, and Tormek adjusting nuts) and with the help of several members here I think I have every calculator version there is now. I'll try them all and see what works out best for me.

Also note that the items within the dashed outline are not parts for the FVB. I am going to make one of RickKrung's pivot collars as well.
(Some assembly required.)

I remember him using the same 'imaginary line' idea in the first knife sharpening video to align the jig as well. And they really stress the point of lifting the handle up vs. rotating it to keep the bevel even around the belly and tip of the blade. What I don't understand is why does he then in this video, do just the opposite on the honing wheel, and swings the handle completely around the radius of the belly to remove the burrs? 

I'll know soon enough as I've ordered the stand and it should be arriving before the end of the week. My local dealer confirmed that there are indeed four wheel hooks included.

Can you confirm if you actually received four of the wheel pegs (hooks) or not? I just ordered a TS-740 myself and was under the impression that it only comes with two pegs. I considered ordering two more but decided not to in case they actually do come with four now.

[Edit:]

...  But the best way is just to try and see what works for you. 

For setting the honing angle, my suggestion is to use whatever method you use to set the sharpening angle (Sharpie, calculator, etc.).

Edit:  Now I can say (I watched the video)... they hone at the same angle.

Seems like sound advise to me.

One thing I took away from today's class was how they doubled up on the LA-170 discs so that you would have access to both the 'normal' and 'thin' discs at the same time. I like that idea and ordered another LA-170 right after the stream ended.