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I sharpen my knives on the Tormek with good results.
But scissors: No
My steps:
1. Use sharpie to set the angle
2. Grade my stone to 220
3. Sharpen with at least 10 passes for each blade
4. Feel for burr. If no burr then sharpen more
5. Use the separate blades and close method to debut

I tried to sharpen 5 scissors and got bad results on all. They got sharper but not close as the sharpness of new scissors.

All my scissors are cheap Ikea one. Some normal and some children sized.

Any tips? Have I over sharpened my scissors?
Do the quality of the scissors has any effect?

My Ezylock get stucked everytime I put it on. Have tested three times now. Have to use a channelock/heat it with a heat gun to get it loose every time. When I put it on I do not use any force, just turn on and let the machine do the rest.

Have investigated the treads on the shaft and the not. Cannot see any damages, but I am not an expert and do not know what I am looking for.

Store the Tormek in an unisolated house where the temperature is around 3 degrees celsius now. But I live i Norway, only hours drive from their factory, so I should work in the climate here.
Do not understand what I am doing wrong.
4 ho

Have I T8 bought in 2018. Used like 5x2 hours each year.

Hallo
I have lost one of the four small black rubber "thing" on my T8. Where can I buy a new one? I hope that I not have to drive for 4 hours to the Tormek Factory:(

 I am not very practical. Any idea of where to find instructions on how to lubricate the bearings.?

Good to hear. But generally, is it bad to get water spillage on to off the housing. This happends when I sharpen knives, and it is difficult to avoid. Can the water go through between the metal top and plast body?

Thank you:)

Hello
New with Tormek. I have sharpened some knives with my new T4. Find it almost impossible to avaoid water spillage at the top of the T4. In the beginning I was not very worried, thinking that the Tormek is design for that. But have started to grow worried that it is wrong,and now I try to wipe of water all the time. Should I still be worried?. What will happend if water come inside the housing?

Hello
Are there any less expensive alternative to the anti-corrosion liquid ACC-150 ?

Hello
How do the svm45 self lock?

So it will be impossibel to get in Norway? Maybe I have to take the 4 hour drive to Tormek factory.

I'll have more available soon.  They are the welder's.  I have a little work to do on them when I get them back.  I'll set a price when I find out how much the welding costs and how much more work there is to do.  I think the price will be around $50.

Please PM me if you are interested. 

Rick

Hello
This is great work. Where did you get the parts you have used. Is it possible to buy them at ebay. I live in Norway so not everything is aviable.

I have some available.  $40 USD plus shipping.  Shipping to Norway could be a bit, but if you are interested, send a PM with your shipping address and I'll see what it is.  Within the US, I have used Priority Mail and the cost has been around $7. 

The collar is a "split clamp-on collar".  I got them from McMaster-Carr, part no. 9616T21:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#clamp-on-collars/=1e47ewd

Click on the second option: "Shaft Collars" and scroll down to the stainless steel ones, 12mm ID.  These of course do not have the pins, which make a huge difference.  The pins are welded in place, in a groove that I milled. 


I also turn an angled relief on the front edge (not shown in the photo above) to allow the collar to pivot further on the pins without the collar contacting the USB. 

Shafts of the knife jig are cast and so are not precisely 12mm.  Ridges and high spots must be filed down so the shafts fit smoothly.  This is not a shortcoming of the collars, but rather a simple reality of castings.  The collars are precisely 12mm ID and do not "open up" or expand to slip over the unavoidable high spots on the shafts. 

They do clamp very tightly, once you get them positioned and initially snugged up.  I have found getting them in position in the loose condition and trying to tighten them to be an awkward task.  An internal "O" ring would be the trick to keeping them in position for that initial snugging, but the additional cost of adding an "O" ring groove may not be tolerated. 

I have thought of making a projection setting jig, similar to Wootz's, with a recess in the wood block to capture the lower side pin for that initial snugging/tightening.  I think such a jig, with the pin recess would work perfectly as well for setting the projection with the stock collar, so I would serve dual/all purposes. 

Rick

Hello
Have done some reasearch. Trying to find some local machine shop which can make this part for me, but I have not found any yet. Most of them do not take small projects like this. It is impossible for me to do this on my own since I do not have a welder or the other power tools needed. Place is also an issue since my working place is a 40x40 cm "working station" in an unisolated shed (temperature in the winter can reach -15 C).

My conclusion is that buying this part will not get my closer to a finish jig. So the only thing I can do is to hope that you in the future make more jigs for sale and is willing to send to Norway. I the meantime I will try to find somebody willing to make this for me.

The first thing I will to is to grind down the existing jig.

I'll have more available soon.  They are the welder's.  I have a little work to do on them when I get them back.  I'll set a price when I find out how much the welding costs and how much more work there is to do.  I think the price will be around $50.

Please PM me if you are interested. 

Rick

Hello
This is great work. Where did you get the parts you have used. Is it possible to buy them at ebay. I live in Norway so not everything is aviable.

https://vimeo.com/234061935

https://vimeo.com/234061995

Is it possible to put these videos on Youtube?

The above links should work now... (I somehow had set them to private).

BTW, Rick's "Pin Pivot Collar" is a bit better solution, if he has any left to sell.

If not, and if you have a spare collar, you can just cut the collar down to size... I did it here.  (It wasn't the prettiest job, which is why I "censored" it), but it worked.

Thank you very much. This is a great forum. I think I will try to make one myself by grinding down the standard collar. But I will try only to grind the sides if it is possible:)

I've had a chance to try Kavik's modified collar... and have already told him... he's not getting it back.   

With the "sides" of the collar removed,  I get a nice fluid movement from straight portion -> belly -> tip.

I'm not much on videos, but tried to make a couple of short ones... just to give an idea.  Note how close the knife stays to the (imaginary) LOC on the stone...

https://vimeo.com/234061935

https://vimeo.com/234061995

... in the 2nd video,,, even a blade that is basically curved the entire length, is a nice smooth movement.  As a bonus, where the knife is set in the jig appears to be less of an issue... having the pivot basically in the same location gives a nice consistent bevel.  (I tried to keep my hands out of the way a bit more in the 2nd video, so maybe you could see the pivot area better.. and showed the shape of the knife at the start).

I thought there might be a problem, since the "stop" is so smooth, it might "ride over" the USB... but maintaining the same pressure needed to keep the jig on the USB... this didn't occur.  Also, not an issue keeping the straight portion of the blade parallel to the stone.

Works great... I like it.      (I'm not much on making videos... but hoped this would at least give some idea of how well it performed).   

As a double bonus... wootz allowed me to beta test his new Android version of the app for setting the USB height to set the angle.  Honestly, when I first read it on his website, I thought it would be no easier than the AngleMaster... man, was I wrong.  It's great too... makes setup easy and very accurate.  Highly recommended. 

Is it possible to put these videos on Youtube?

Hello
Just a follow up on tip sharpening. I am a little confused when it comes to the correct correct technique for sharpen a curved tip. According to the videos I should pick up the knife when I approach the curved tip. But in which direction. Should it be parallell to the stone radius?

Found this video on Youtube which gives the correct solution, but I have a litte trouble with transfering this technique to the round tormek stone:

The short answer... if there isn't a lot of curve in the belly/tip area, you can just lift the handle as you approach the tip.  If there is a lot of curve, then rotation is the better method.  In some cases, you have to do a bit of both.  There is a thread that talks about this in length... To Pivot or Not to Pivot.

The other issue though, is setting the knife in the clamp so that, when you rotate the knife, the contact area on the stone doesn't move, because (as you already figured out) that will change the angle.  That is shown in this thread... The One Change You Should Make to the Tormek.

Jan has created a template for setting the knife in the (unmodified) jig that will help keep it in the correct location... Knife Point Setting Template.

So to summarize    there is no real "right" method.  The easiest way is to get a few practice knives, mark the bevel with a Sharpie marker, and practice both methods (lifting and/or pivoting), to see what works best for you.  One main point to remember... where you place the belly/tip area in relation to the clamp, will determine the angle that it is sharpened at.  (This is what Jan's template helps with).

Thank you very much for a very good answer. I see that I have a lot to read before I really masters the Tormek. Comming from 5 years with free hand sharpening on japanese water stone I thought that Tormek should be easy to use:)