Quote from: Royale on November 01, 2024, 07:16:26 PMhammering the pivot rivetsEnglish is not my first language. What do you mean by that. Can you explain what you do?
Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.
www.tormek.com
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Show posts MenuQuote from: Royale on November 01, 2024, 07:16:26 PMhammering the pivot rivetsEnglish is not my first language. What do you mean by that. Can you explain what you do?
Quote from: RickKrung on August 11, 2018, 06:43:34 PMHelloQuote from: troflog on August 11, 2018, 09:59:34 AMQuote from: RickKrung on April 22, 2018, 06:07:06 PMHello
I'll have more available soon. They are the welder's. I have a little work to do on them when I get them back. I'll set a price when I find out how much the welding costs and how much more work there is to do. I think the price will be around $50.
Please PM me if you are interested.
Rick
This is great work. Where did you get the parts you have used. Is it possible to buy them at ebay. I live in Norway so not everything is aviable.
I have some available. $40 USD plus shipping. Shipping to Norway could be a bit, but if you are interested, send a PM with your shipping address and I'll see what it is. Within the US, I have used Priority Mail and the cost has been around $7.
The collar is a "split clamp-on collar". I got them from McMaster-Carr, part no. 9616T21:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#clamp-on-collars/=1e47ewd
Click on the second option: "Shaft Collars" and scroll down to the stainless steel ones, 12mm ID. These of course do not have the pins, which make a huge difference. The pins are welded in place, in a groove that I milled.
I also turn an angled relief on the front edge (not shown in the photo above) to allow the collar to pivot further on the pins without the collar contacting the USB.
Shafts of the knife jig are cast and so are not precisely 12mm. Ridges and high spots must be filed down so the shafts fit smoothly. This is not a shortcoming of the collars, but rather a simple reality of castings. The collars are precisely 12mm ID and do not "open up" or expand to slip over the unavoidable high spots on the shafts.
They do clamp very tightly, once you get them positioned and initially snugged up. I have found getting them in position in the loose condition and trying to tighten them to be an awkward task. An internal "O" ring would be the trick to keeping them in position for that initial snugging, but the additional cost of adding an "O" ring groove may not be tolerated.
I have thought of making a projection setting jig, similar to Wootz's, with a recess in the wood block to capture the lower side pin for that initial snugging/tightening. I think such a jig, with the pin recess would work perfectly as well for setting the projection with the stock collar, so I would serve dual/all purposes.
Rick
Quote from: RickKrung on April 22, 2018, 06:07:06 PMHello
I'll have more available soon. They are the welder's. I have a little work to do on them when I get them back. I'll set a price when I find out how much the welding costs and how much more work there is to do. I think the price will be around $50.
Please PM me if you are interested.
Rick
Quote from: cbwx34 on August 10, 2018, 02:43:22 PMThank you very much. This is a great forum. I think I will try to make one myself by grinding down the standard collar. But I will try only to grind the sides if it is possible:)Quote from: troflog on August 10, 2018, 09:28:54 AMQuote from: cbwx34 on September 15, 2017, 11:45:35 PMIs it possible to put these videos on Youtube?
https://vimeo.com/234061935
https://vimeo.com/234061995
The above links should work now... (I somehow had set them to private).
BTW, Rick's "Pin Pivot Collar" is a bit better solution, if he has any left to sell.
If not, and if you have a spare collar, you can just cut the collar down to size... I did it here. (It wasn't the prettiest job, which is why I "censored" it), but it worked.
Quote from: cbwx34 on September 15, 2017, 11:45:35 PMIs it possible to put these videos on Youtube?
I've had a chance to try Kavik's modified collar... and have already told him... he's not getting it back.
With the "sides" of the collar removed, I get a nice fluid movement from straight portion -> belly -> tip.
I'm not much on videos, but tried to make a couple of short ones... just to give an idea. Note how close the knife stays to the (imaginary) LOC on the stone...
https://vimeo.com/234061935
https://vimeo.com/234061995
... in the 2nd video,,, even a blade that is basically curved the entire length, is a nice smooth movement. As a bonus, where the knife is set in the jig appears to be less of an issue... having the pivot basically in the same location gives a nice consistent bevel. (I tried to keep my hands out of the way a bit more in the 2nd video, so maybe you could see the pivot area better.. and showed the shape of the knife at the start).
I thought there might be a problem, since the "stop" is so smooth, it might "ride over" the USB... but maintaining the same pressure needed to keep the jig on the USB... this didn't occur. Also, not an issue keeping the straight portion of the blade parallel to the stone.
Works great... I like it.(I'm not much on making videos... but hoped this would at least give some idea of how well it performed).
As a double bonus... wootz allowed me to beta test his new Android version of the app for setting the USB height to set the angle. Honestly, when I first read it on his website, I thought it would be no easier than the AngleMaster... man, was I wrong. It's great too... makes setup easy and very accurate. Highly recommended.
Page created in 0.011 seconds with 14 queries.