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Hello
Just a follow up on tip sharpening. I am a little confused when it comes to the correct correct technique for sharpen a curved tip. According to the videos I should pick up the knife when I approach the curved tip. But in which direction. Should it be parallell to the stone radius?

Found this video on Youtube which gives the correct solution, but I have a litte trouble with transfering this technique to the round tormek stone:

The short answer... if there isn't a lot of curve in the belly/tip area, you can just lift the handle as you approach the tip.  If there is a lot of curve, then rotation is the better method.  In some cases, you have to do a bit of both.  There is a thread that talks about this in length... To Pivot or Not to Pivot.

The other issue though, is setting the knife in the clamp so that, when you rotate the knife, the contact area on the stone doesn't move, because (as you already figured out) that will change the angle.  That is shown in this thread... The One Change You Should Make to the Tormek.

Jan has created a template for setting the knife in the (unmodified) jig that will help keep it in the correct location... Knife Point Setting Template.

So to summarize    there is no real "right" method.  The easiest way is to get a few practice knives, mark the bevel with a Sharpie marker, and practice both methods (lifting and/or pivoting), to see what works best for you.  One main point to remember... where you place the belly/tip area in relation to the clamp, will determine the angle that it is sharpened at.  (This is what Jan's template helps with).

Thank you very much for a very good answer. I see that I have a lot to read before I really masters the Tormek. Comming from 5 years with free hand sharpening on japanese water stone I thought that Tormek should be easy to use:)

Hello
Just a follow up on tip sharpening. I am a little confused when it comes to the correct correct technique for sharpen a curved tip. According to the videos I should pick up the knife when I approach the curved tip. But in which direction. Should it be parallell to the stone radius?

Found this video on Youtube which gives the correct solution, but I have a litte trouble with transfering this technique to the round tormek stone:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFhUXgYS0Os

Hej troflog,

Not 100% if I understand but to me it seems like you are clamping the knife jig in the middle of the knife. Try to clamp it about 5~7cm from the tip so you have about same distance from jig gard to the tip and the edge. Then when you sharpen you have to both lift and pull the handle so you are at about same spot (angle wise)on the stone.
Is this knife 180mm as indicated on the site?

This VDO I made on long butcher knife with about same characteristics as yours but 310mm long. I'm using a specially made USB for that long knifes.
https://youtu.be/YiDGR7DnUt0
Hope it will help you a little.

Hello
Yea this is exactly my problem . I need to find out where to buy this in Norway. The knife is a non branded 300 mm knife with this shape.

I struggle with this knife:

https://www.2080.no/victorinox/364117/victorinox-slaktekniv-l-180mm-med-fibroxsgrep
Tried to lift the knife but I still miss the tip. Should I freehand? When I lift the knife to much, the jig goes of the rail.

On the one that had it's apex damaged from cutting hard crusted bread i used my Tormek T7 to grind the old edge flat and put on a new initial edge.
The polishing was then done on Paper Wheels with diamond compounds.

So the standard stone i capetable of sharpening this hard steel? I get a little confused since many threads indicate that the standard stone cannot sharpend above 60 hrc

These Kohetsu Santoku's in HAP40 steel @ 65HRC also came from Chefknivestogo US, as they weren't available in my country.
Very nice knives i might add, and the steel takes & holds an excellent edge.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/kohetsu-hap40-santoku.1509214/

Have you sharpened one of these on a Tormek?

Troflog,

I think we have two questions: Is it possible to,sharpen your hard Japanese knife with the SG-200?
And, since you just got your Tormek, is this a good first knofe to sharpen?

I have no experience sharpening Japanese knives; my knives are all western style. However, my standard method of testing grinding wheels is to grind for five minutes on a metal lathe tool bit. These are a hard alloy. The SG-200 does cut these tool bits. It is not optimized for these steels, however, it will cut them at a slower pace.

There are more experienced knife sharpeners than me on the forum.

As to the second question, I would be reluctant to touch a $280 US knife until I had learned and practiced on less expensive knives. The common advice is to use thrift store knives. Personally, I think you would be better served by practicing on less expensive knives with good quality steel. Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Fibrox-Chefs-Knife-8-Inch/dp/B000638D32/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1533020284&sr=8-3&keywords=swiss%2Barmy%2Bchef%2Bknife&th=1

This knife was a favorite demonstration knife of Jeff Farris, the forum founder. The flat blade construction was easier to sharpen, and the good steel took and held a good edge.

Keep us posted.

Ken

I have one of these. This knife is quit common in Norway. For most people that not into knives this is the most expensive knife they have.

Hello
One is hrc 62 aeb-l richmond artifex and one rsuper agomi steel at 63
https://www.chefknivestogo.com/rilaaosu24gy.html

Hello
Just got my T4. I have some japanese knives with hardness between 60-65 hrc. Are those impossible to sharpen on my regular Tormek stone?

Troflog,

I trust your new Tormek will serve you well for many years. I hope you will post your comments about it, both what you like and what you dislike.

Ken

Just read this post.

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3433.0

1.It is a little confusing, but will the Tormek t-4 spill a lot of water around the table (compared with the t-8)?

2.Will it work to put a magnet in the tray in order to avoid metal clogging the sharpening stone

The T4 with truing tool, long and short knife jib, axe and scissor jig is ordered:)

Hello Ken
I am going to use the Tormek for sharpening my own knives,garden tools, scissors and axes. I also sharpen some of my friends knives (but not so often as my own knives). I think I will go for the T4 since I do not have a perment spot for the machine. I live in a small house with only an outdoor unisolated shed where I have to store the machine. So I have to bring the machine inside my house if I want to sharp during winter.
The most important for me is that I am able to get as sharpe egdes as with the T8


Does anybody know if the t4 will get a diamond stone in the future.

Thank for the good answers.I have almost decided to buy the T-4 since it is it is 250 $ cheaper in Norway even with all the jigs I nerd
1.So the t-4 will not get on fire if I use it for 35 minutes?
2.I have read somewhere that it is cheaper to sharpen on the t-8 due to more sharpening stone for the money. Is that true?
3.The T-4 stone is 200 mm. How much can I wear it down before the hollowness becomes a problem?

I have another issue. I have to store my Tormek in a non-isolated shed during winter. I live in Norway so the winters can be cold (-10-15 C). If I need to use the Tormek I plan to take it inside for 24 hours before I use it (in order to remove any moisture). Will this work?

Hello
I am planning to buy a Tormek, but can decide betweeen T-4 and T-8. The maxium 30 min sharpening time with the T-4 is okay, but I am more worried about the hollowness. Since it have a 200 mm stone, it will be more hollow than the 250 mm T-8 stone. How much worse will the t-4 egde be compared with the T-8 egde. I have used japanese water stone for 5 years but an illness in my hand keep me from using them any more.