Messages

Thanks for the reply Ken.

Does anyone have a preference?

I have seen that sharpening lathe tools and planer blades (especially planer blades!) can be quite slow on the standard wheel. I'm considering buying the SB250 for those uses, but I notice that a local seller has a pair of D-way CBN in 80 and 180 for sale for $300 the pair.  I am thinking the SB250 is more flexible, being gradable like the standard stone, and also the D-way wheels are only 1-1/2" wide.

Any advice?

Rich,

Thanks for the reply.
I did find out about the extra knob, and it doesn't sound like it will matter to me in the least.

Your link seems to be broken? 

Ah wait, it's just an "l" missing off the end.

A few years ago I bought the Tormek woodturners kit, first thing I notice is that before I've even used it they've upgraded the 186 with a second knob - I'm guessing it limits the swing?  LOL, just my luck.

Anyway, I've never been interested in turning, but have a project requiring spoindle turning. I have a basic set of 5 HSS tools, one of which is a 1/2" spindle gouge with a standard grind. It seemed like the Tormek "recipe" fit that grind just fine. I also just purchased a Sorby 1/2" spindle gouge with a fingernail profile #840-FH.
I would like to  get this onto a "recipe" as well for future sharpening ease but I am not sure how the different profile is set up. IF a standard gouge fits js2-65-A, what changes are necessary for the fingernail profile with the long "wings" (sorry, don't know the turners lingo)?

Not sure what stone you are talking about but the Shapton costs around the AU$100 mark on Amazon

Tormek has a 4000grit Japanese waterstone. SJ250.

I've spent a little on my ten year old T7 lately. I bought a planer blade jig and the rotating base. I didn't think they were excessively expensive, albeit not cheap.  As I was using my japanese water stone to touch up a few kitchen knoves, I wondered how much the 4000 grit stone costs these days. Cough cough! $490 + tax!   Holy Moly, much more than any other stone? Really?

Then I thought, one of those workstations might be nice, I wonder what they cost?  Best part of a grand!  Think I'll stick with what I have.
The Tormek is a great machine, but some of the pricing.....whooooo.

Actually not too bad. I ganged them together then freehanded them off the side of the wheel, coarse side first, then fine side.  The larger footprint of the two together made holding them at 10 degrees ok.  There was one nick in the blade which did not come out at the point that there was a fresh edge all the way across so I didn't waste more blade eliminating it.

Rich,  I've had this shear for maybe 10 years, it was old when I got it but the blades were in excellent shape.  I sharpened them on my Makita horizontal wet wheel (9820?- I forget) freehand.  It cuts well, but I'm never sure if it cuts like new.  Considering how nice the blades were when I got it, and the fact that I only sharpened them once in a decade I'd say it's very good steel!

Before the B2 I made the mistake of buying the Horror Fright B1 clone, the blades on that p.o.s. were all chipped up within 3 feet of 18ga steel!   Even a decade ago, the B2 used was three times the price of the HF.

Now, the Makita is gone and I have a T7. 
Apparently, the blades pass each other at a 10 degree clearance angle, plus they are curved blades so it's not an easy task to hold them exactly square to the cutting surface, although I think I did a decent job last time.   
I found some better pictures of the cutting edge:

Has anyone any advice about sharpening the blades of a Beverly B2 throatless shear?  I've done plane irons, kitchen knives etc but this will be a bit different, will probably have to be freehand sharpened?

I think I have enough of an investment in my T7!  It's worth it of course. 

The new drive wheel arrived from Tormek today. It's night and day better than the original one. Very happy!   

After sending Tormek a few videos of the wobble, they agreed it's way out of spec and are sending me a replacement drive wheel.  How's that for customer service?  I guess I should've talked to them a long time ago, but no quibbles even with my machine being a good 7 or 8 years old.
Kudos to Tormek.

I've started a dialog with Tormek.  The shaft runs true, the grinding wheel runs true. If I mount just the drive wheel, it runs like a drunken sailor and since everything else references off the face of the drive wheel, the honing wheel and the profile wheels  run crooked. I tried all three honing wheel orientations, and both drive wheel orientations with no improvement.  I've sent Tormek several videos so we'll see what they suggest.  Surprisingly, they said that 1mm was just inside tolerance so it may be "that's the way it is", but time will tell.

If Tormek say that's the way it is I will try to rebore and sleeve back to original bore size the plastic wheel, but plastic is not the best material to try this on.  Or I'll just live with it, but it's kind of ugly.

Hi Ken,

Thanks, it wasn't cheap but promises a lot of functionality. Now if only Tormek could figure out how to sharpen Hollows and  complex moulding planes!

Now that I've finally retired, I am thinking I'll actually have the time to do some woodworking, I've always been short of time and long on hobbies.

No, I haven't contacted support. My T7 has seen little use, but must be at least 7 or 8 years old now even though it looks like new.  I always thought the honing wheel wobble was just how it was.  The grinding stone runs beautifully true so it never really bothered me too much.  Is it worth calling them when the unit is this old? It sure looks a lot worse with the profile honing wheels assembly hung off the end! 
There's about a 1mm runout on the drive wheel rim.

ken

Nice setup, the only disappointment is the profile honing wheels really accentuate the drive wheel/honing wheel wobble I've always tolerated on my T7.