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Tournevis - Ken found a Tormek retailer in the US that sold the diamond wheels for the T-2 as spare parts, and the wheels are a perfect fit on the T-4. I don't know if the T-2 wheels have the flat sides with diamonds. Perhaps a retailer in the EU also has the T-2 wheels.

Mike

Perhaps I am wrong but it seems that T2 diamond wheel do not have flat sides with diamonds, Multi base neither.
Regards

Hello From France,
Today I received Tormek's pre announcement of New Diamond Wheels.
Surprisingly I am frustrated by the fact that they seem to be in 250 mm diameter only. So unusable by T4's owners.
The second frustration is that the French email is very bad translated with various "gender " problems. A "Wheel" in French is Female. So you can guest how many time this word was repeated in the message !
As support, I can help Tormek's Communication team to translate, in French if needed.
Ken, do you have some backdoor information about 200 mm Diamond Wheels ?
Or an Upgrade program for T4's to T8 ?
Have a nice week end.
   

Is there any other way to clean the SJ stone besides the Stone grader?

Give a try of my discovery several month ago.
At the end of your working session, unmount the SJ Stone and put it in a tank with tap water.
You will see that 90% of carbon dark traces will disappear and potentially 100% if you give few movements of hand brush and 2 drops dishwashing liquid soap.
Let me know if it works. 

Hello Jan,
And what about this shape ?


Less work and could be done on Tormek 

Sheang sent me the double bearing model (I call it the "Han-Jig"), & I got it this weekend.   Used it to setup my Tormek to sharpen a number of knives.  This thing is the bee's knees.

I'm a big fan of using the TTS-100 to setup for sharpening my lathe tools, & the Han-Jig is really like using the TTS, but for knives.

Sheang did a great job :  This is something worth making for a compleat set of jigs !!

Rich,
I am happy to see that you are satisfied with the Jig. As it is unbreakable made, I hope that it will serve for next generation of sharpeners.
Do not hesitate to report any potential problem or possible improvement to share.
This is the best way for the community to progress.
Enjoy 

If you have the possibility to engrave some inscription on the plate, than I recommend the bevel angles 10°, 15° and 20° and also "Projection length 139 mm".

Improvement action planned on Version 2 

I would suggest drawing a couple ines on the bearings. That makes it very easy to see when the bearings are turning. (I drew a single spoke on the Tormek wheels on my TTS-100.)

Improvement action planned on Version 2 

I like the single bearing one better (can easily see both sides touching)

Fully agree, but need return on experience to confirm. At this time it is only "feeling" so not factual.

I am very pleased to share your experience and your kindness, I wonder how to buy more time for sharpening, should I wait until retirement ? If yes, two long years to wait. 

Very cool! Great work, Tournevis. 

Congrats for overcoming the difficulties with the original metallic discs, your solution with the ball bearings is perfect. They are wider than the Tormek metallic discs and will help to stabilise your knife setter on the grindstone. This is especially important because your plate is not extruded around the holes for the universal support.

It is a great pleasure for me to see your cool implementation of my geometrical concept for a knife setter similar to TTS-100.  Moreover in the embodiment of such noble material as stainless steel. Simply brilliant.

Please compare your knife bevel angle setting with Tormek Angle Master and let me know if the angles are the same. The function of the knife setter should not depend on the wheel diameter, it should work flawlessly also for the honing wheel.   

Jan

P.S.: Perfect photo documentation also!

The full story of composite and steel come from the fact that sandwich composite plate of 5 mm thick cannot meet the "high precision" needed for the tool. Tolerance for this material is more or less between 0,5 mm and 1 mm.
That's why I chose stainless steel. With the range of tolerance of 0,1mm, stainless steel is more appropriate.
Then the difficulty about original metallic disc fitting came up and by chance, I found the perfect dimension from a bearing catalogue. OD = 16mm ID = 5 mm and the cost is ridiculously low : 0,7 Euro piece.
Then I decided to give a try for this solution Knowing that in worst case, as my drilling for the screw is only 5 mm I still can enlarge the hole to 6mm to suit the metallic disc if needed.

During my trial I found out that the reading during adjustment is easier with the single bearing version. But perhaps it is an illusion. I'll confirm this feeling when I'll run a sharpening session for real.
For sure, as Ken stated, this solution (ball bearing and stainless steel) is an "Overkill" solution for a tool. But I am sure that is a multi generational life time solution. 
I take your point to compare some sharpening result with your tool and Tormek Angle Master. I am already pretty sure that Kenjanjig is much faster to set-up than Angle Master. 

Thanks for all.

hello Ken and Jan,
With your help and recommendations in this topic, I finally made 2 Stainless steel Kenjig.

Here is the first one based on double ball bearing.



Double ball bearing in situation :


Here is the second one based on single ball bearing



Single ball bearing in situation :



Your comments are welcome, I'll try to improve if needed.
Best regards

I am exploring another solution around ball bearing to substitute the metallic disc, it will simplify the mounting process on the plate.
Ken, my plate is in Stainless steel so, not really elastic as TTS's plastic plate.
Comments ?

Thanks Jan for your thoughts.
My idea is to drill the axial hole at 6 mm and make the inlet opening at 5,8 mm.
Use the the property of metal expansion by heating the plate in an oven, fit the disc, and let the jig cool down naturally. Do you think that it can work ?
I need to find an algorithm or an table about metal expansion by heat treatment to be sure about the inlet opening dimension and estimate the temperature needed to be set-up.

You can download the DXF CAD file from the following address:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vmyzjqnked8fwkq/Knife_setter_1.dxf?dl=1

The original TTS-100 plate is 4 mm thick, but is extruded to 5 mm in places where the metal contact discs are inserted. Around the holes for the universal support the original plate is extruded to 16 mm.

My plastic plate was made of 8 mm thick polyethylene, but thicker plate or sandwich construction would be better.


The knife setter will work with both, T4 and T7. Its major advantage is, that it is practically not dependent on grinding stone/honing wheel diameter (in the range 160 to 250 mm).

The metal contact discs are listed as article 1250 in the TTS-100 parts breakdown list.
http://tormek.com/international/en/accessories/other-accessories/tts-100-turning-tool-setter/

Jan

Help Jan,
I got metallic in hand, they are original part from Tormek and I wonder what is he best way to integrate in the plate ?
They are made un one piece, turned aluminium disc, OD = 16 mm ID = 5 mm space length = 5 mm
Your help and comments are welcome.


My plate is made in stainless steel 3 mm thick.
I am scratching my head, how to drill and integrate those disc ?

Many thanks Jan
Good point kb0rvo
Yes I can read and manage DXF CAD file.
One question, what's your recommendation about the thickness of the composite plate ?
Does this tool work with any T4 & T7 ? (from my understanding the answer is Yes, but I would like your confirmation.) 
Last but not least, do you have any source to buy metal contact discs ?
Does Tormek sell them as spare parts ?
Cheers

Hi Jan,
In France , we also have some slaughtering domestic pigs in few regions. Brittany and South West.
More or less it is now more a folkloric tradition then an economical necessity as in the 19th century.
Back to your question, if I can buy the original one as spare parts, I am not sure about that, I will buy.
But before that I have a question. Are those metallic disc really needed ? What's the function ? If their role is only contact points, some simple pins could give the same reference ?
Anyway, you are the master of design, and I'll try to make them in the simplest way possible.

Hello all,
Merry Christmas and Happy new year to all.
I was gone for a while due to personal situation change.
I just join a new work position and was very busy to move to this new "sea side" location.
Jan, is it possible to merge all concept and prototype in one tool ?
Could you please make a drawing as the "perfect knife setting" tool without artefact from TTS or any copyrighted tool ?
I have a capability to built a "composite" plate with high precision as prototype.
Thanks in advance.

Jan
That sounds perfect.