Messages

I once heard a response from an older prizefighter that comes to mind frequently these days. When asked how he can still compete with his much younger opponents, he replied that he didn't have a problem keeping up in the 3 minute fight rounds. The mismatch is recuperating in the 1 minute rest between rounds.  Think I'll get some sleep now.     (Sorry, I can't get the emoticons to work... is it a "Mac" problem or is it me?)    Take care guys.   Joel

Thanks for the solar ideas. However, I'll be 77 soon and each year it gets harder to keep up with the daily maintenance "surprises" around the farm. They say "With age comes wisdom"... So, maybe I'll wise up and not start any new long-term projects. And anyway, I'll probably be moving from here in 3-4 years and "really" retire. But... it does sound interesting.

Thanks for the suggestion Ken but I don't use the Tormek frequently enough to warrant even the minor expense of keeping a light bulb lit. In the future, I'll just bring water out from the house for sharpening sessions on an "as needed" basis... until Spring returns. And, that can't be any too soon for me, my tools... and my wood supply.

I've been dealing with this problem for 35 years here in northern Maryland. I do have an old wood stove and a small coal stove (both Swedish Yodels) in storage which I used to heat my old farmhouse before they were displaced with a "real" furnace. I've thought about trying the wood stove to heat the shop full-time but I know I'll be paranoid about the fire hazard – especially when I'm not out there with it. Just doesn't seem practical to have to haul wood, etc. out to the barn just to keep the stove going... I certainly don't need another "chore" around the old place. And, if I lit the stove only when I AM going to use the shop, it would take hours to heat it. So, the salamander and the expensive K1 still seem to be my best option. Not ideal, but workable.

Thanks Mark and Herman for your prompt replies. Yes, these posts were very helpful. My "dish" is really deep but it sounds as though the grader is salvageable. I'll try lengthening its life by using the ends as Jeff suggests.   

It's not so much dedication as it is "fixed income frugalness." To insulate and keep my barn/woodshop heated full-time would be way expensive – and impractical since I don't use it daily. So, I turn on a salamander heater when I first get out there. Then, it isn't too unbearable – except for the first half hour or so. Enough water would have melted if I had mustered a little patience... but nooo... I'll just short cut the process this one time...

Thanks again.   Joel

I know it wasn't smart but... the water in my shop container was frozen and I was cold and rushed to sharpen two chisels. I poured the little melted ice water I had into the Tormek tray and proceeded to sharpen. The rough grinding seemed to go OK. However, when I used the grader to smooth the stone, it quickly wore a dish into the stone grader. So... NOW I went back to the house, got "liquid" water and filled the tray to the proper level. How can I flatten my grader? Or, do I need to buy a new one?  Signed, lazydumbguy

Jeff, thanks for your valuable insight. I now understand the reasoning behind the preferred process and I'll do it "by the book".

I'm about to perform my first sharpening session on my new T7.  First up are 6 chisels that need to be reground, refined and honed.

To perform the steps, I understand that I would regrind each chisel on the coarse stone, use the grader to change the stone to 1000 grit and then refine the edge without removing the chisel from the jig. Then regrade the stone back to coarse... etc. This requires regrading the stone from coarse to fine and back again something like 11 times for 6 chisels. Wouldn't it save a lot of wear and tear on the stone and grader to position each chisel the same "protrusion" from the jig's edge – scribe a fine line, or use a strip of tape on the chisel at the jig's edge – regrind all 6 on the coarse wheel, then using the grader ONLY ONCE, carefully reinsert each chisel in it's original position and refine – and hone – all 6?

Any comments/advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Joel

Jeff, Thanks for responding. I tested your "dimple" theory by letting the machine run for 13 minutes and the noise never dissipated. In fact, when I applied very slight pressure with the palm of my hand on the top of the leather wheel to simulate the honing process, and the noise got much louder.

Herman, Thanks for the suggestion but the sound does not disappear with the water trough removed. However, in the process of feeling around to find the culprit, I discovered that if I pivot the motor up and away from the front of the housing, the sound goes away. So, I stuffed a rolled-up Scotch Brite pad in there to hold the motor up about 1/2" further, and it's now quiet. But, I can feel the motor move very slightly up and down as it runs – like something is out-of-round.

Is there a way to adjust the motor into this elevated position that isn't such a Mickey Mouse solution? Is it OK to run it with the motor in a different position? I certainly don't want to cause any future problems. And anyway, I don't think the customer should have to resort to a "work-around" on a new piece of premium equipment.

Jeff, if you see this post, I'd really appreciate your input and an "official" Tormek opinion on this?  Thanks!!

I just assembled my new T7 and have a question about a disconcerting sound.

As the wheels revolve, the normal "running hum" is not a steady sound. With each revolution, it makes a deep "wha... wha... wha" sound as if something is bent or out of balance. It's not a scraping sound. I have other grinders in my shop that have a normal smooth running, electric motor hum which is the sound I would expect from a premium priced product as the Tormek. The grinding wheel appears to be turning within specs.

Is this normal? What is causing this? Does yours make this same sound? I'm hesitant to use it until I'm certain that all T7s produce this sound. 

Thanks for your kind assistance.