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I would say use a jig for sure. Even if you were really good at freehand knife sharpening i would still say use the jig. There's alot more going on with scissors than knives, and when you enter the big bad world of professional convex scissors, things start get very serious indeed. 

Thanks for the replies. I was hoping for a none-manual approach because I am very poor at that. 
But if I understand the Edge Pro Apex video right, it is a matter of getting an angle of 6 or 7 degrees and sharpen the none-scalloped side. Does anyone have any experience in grinding an angle that small using the Tormek?

What he is describing in the video is how to sharpen that type of blade within the limits of the Apex system. Jeff has mentioned that he just does it flat. I would say on the Tormek it will be much easier to try it flat on a trued and finely graded stone. You may want to just put a just hint of a twist (as to encourage more attention on the cutting edge) but i wouldn't, i would just go lightly, checking often. You could be brave and try the side of the stone!

*EDIT* After looking at the photo's again there is a slight bevel on the backside of the blade. Assuming it was factory produced and of a consistent angle, you may need to match it. Grinding flat will just be thinning the blade for nothing. I thing the key with serrated knives is, less is more. I have a friend bringing me a serrated Japanese (61-62 rockwell) knife to take a look at. If i learn anything new i will report back, but knowing him and his ham-fisted methods i can't fail to make atleast some improvement...

I know this is a different sharpening system but i think what he says is useful whatever device you use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCqby2dO3_Q

And while were on the subject there's something else I wanted to ask about.  I can't ever seem to get my grindstone dressed properly using the fine side of the grader.  You've mentioned several times that it should feel as smooth as glass.  Mine feels like it has warts on it!  What am I doing wrong?

I often use a strip of wet and dry (220 i think) and it does get the stone to have a glass like feel. I have never got the stone to feel quite like that using the grader, it doesn't break down the paper as fast as you might think.

Looking at the heel on the blade i would say the whole edge needs reshaping. I would see that knife a practice blade personally.

Are you using the stone grader in the same way and for the same time as the tutorial?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYNkEKS5-KY

I agree with Jeff. Your requirements are that of a professional and so you will need piece of kit that can live up to it. I had a 1200 (T3) and found it was good but quite cramped - knife handle hindered by the honing wheel (and vice versa) in some freehand situations. I think you would quickly regret buying a T3. For people coming from high speed dry grinders, the Tormeks feel slow going when it comes to metal removal/shaping, the 50/50 duty cycle on the T3 will just hinder you further.

Personally I am kicking this rest idea around even for larger knives as well, as I am not satisfied with what is happening out on the tip of the knife

"I parked the Tormek and used my old guided hand sharpening system."
Since then I have set up a knife and played around with it while the Tormek is shut off, trying different things.
TTFN
Elden

Basically the same situation as me! I have found though that with the way the Tormek is designed it is very hard find a solution i'm happy with. With the tool rest it's not possible to get in close and have the correct angle, i always end up coming round to Ionut's solution. I've never liked using add-ons or extensions as it feels less secure, but we shall see.

Yep it's suspended grit.

For me honing is really only for finishing and realigning a slightly folded edge. But i'm not sure on how dulled "not to blunt" is, so it's hard to say if that particular edge would need a swift run on 1000 and back on the leather or just the leather. 

Byoomholay,


Sadly, these ideas seem to have been forgotten.

Ken

Not a chance! I have been thinking about this for a while. I have a the 110 tool rest on order (and a new motor...) And will be experimenting ASAP. As far as i can see this approach with resolve the 'tip bevel issue' as the knife edge only ever sees one angle. The only problem i see with grinding away is the possibility of the stone lifting the knife off the rest, maybe resolved with magnets..? We shall see..!

Hi Ken,

I am in the UK.

DM seems to be cheapest, i think with the straight jigs its around £520 or £430 ish without.

But the whole of the uk aint on google, so i would appreciate some feedback.

I've just done a broad search and D&M are definitely currently doing the best deals

Aired-tools are cheaper

Have a look at:

http://aird-tools.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=tormek

Some good deals and free delivery on orders over £100

Yes! It is recommended to use the stone coarse graded or better still use the SB-250 stone

Check:  http://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?t=13m10s

"perfectly adequately"  " good enough for practical purposes"

Is that good enough for a professional piece of kit...?

I can save everyone a lot of time and energy on this topic.......do EXACTLY as Jeff suggests in both his videos and also following his comments. Don't " think" you have a better way etc, just blindly follow the instructions and stop thinking.

Although i don't actually really agree with this rather narrow approach, this case renders it a bit pointless seeing as the original poster is having trouble caused by a known flaw in the jig.