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I use my iPad Pro when for accessing the Internet and running software for the Tormek in my workshop. It is in a case for protection and I leave it at the edge of my work area. Not a cheap solution but it has worked for me. I also like to have it in the kitchen for recipes and videos. My favorite use is to sit out on the deck on a warm day and watch a movie or two while smoking ribs and enjoying a beverage.

Ken, do you have any idea on what suppliers in the US may be getting these? Rough cost estimate?

[FACTORY EDGE VS RE-SHARPENED]

FACTORY EDGE VS RE-SHARPENED

Following are the sharpness data and chart.
We see that the re-sharpened and cleanly deburred edge also gets sharper due to this mystical phenomenon, and sharper than the factory edge.
We see that it is not plastic specific, and not about the burr.
I am still scratching my head for a plausible explanation of this phenomenon.
Comments are welcome.

Is it possible that during the first cuts of the experiment the knife cuts the board forming a 32° V in the material and as you make more cuts this V is acting as a strop on the sharpened edge? Since there is no burr no tearing at the apex would occur as was seen in your other deburring tests. If the knife were moved to a fresh section of the board after each cut I wonder if the data would change?

Of course I started immidiately to search for a source of HDPP chopping/cutting boards. But the result was disappointing, I found no supplier for these boards in home kitchen sizes. Any suggestions where to look?

Here is one source. Different colors are offered for different food.

https://www.amazon.com/Commercial-Grade-Plastic-Cutting-Board/dp/B01LZNZZX6

Our latest research on chopping boards is in the Edge Stability Testing section on our website:
http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

Abstract from the research conclusions:

"Of all plastic boards, the most edge-friendly is the ubiquitous high density polypropylene, while the
expensive Yoshihiro Hi-Soft board is nothing to rave about in comparison.
Acacia end-grain chopping board has no advantage over the long-grain in keeping your knife sharp;
while the end-grain bamboo board is definitely bad."
...

This was a most interesting read and I think definitely myth busting.

As I was looking at the comparison charts I thought you must had transposed the data. I am glad to see that all my boards are good for cutting. I wish a SEM was easily available to look at the differences from before and after. Did you try this using the Victorinox knives after they had been sharpened using the process outlined in your recent "Knife Deburring" book? Do knives that are at or near maximum sharpness dull following the protocol you used?

Another question is raised also; if the knife is getting sharper as shown in the tests why do they get dull cutting relatively soft things like tomatoes, potatoes and meat? I wonder if technique enters into it.

I will get one if they do another production run. I would also like the additional length and height if they do a run.
Last time they were available I procrastinated.

I forgot I also succumbed to the Misen add and bought their chef knife early on at a deep discount. I like the feel and weight and so far it has retained its edge well.

I have learned a lot from the members in this forum. It has been enjoyable going beyond the Tormek User Manual and Videos (Some of the best available from a manufacturer I think). Lately we have been delving into honing, stropping, steeling and cutting board impacts on edge retention. All great subjects that are very important.

One question I get from people quite often is "What knives do you recommend?" The question most often comes from home users. I find that they most often fall into 2 camps. The first camp wants knives that are inexpensive, will stay reasonably sharp and will last. For this group I will give them some basic knife styles to buy and recommend Victorinox. The other and smaller group want high quality, high performance knives. These are the home chefs that take cooking seriously. Here I recommend that they go to a store that stocks several brands and try them out. If you are doing a lot of cutting it is important how the knife is balanced and fits your hand. If they like the heavier Western style knives I will steer them towards Wusthof or Henckel. If they lean more towards the Japanese style the two I lean towards are Shun and Global.
I know some of us collect knives and that there are many brands now available over a wide price range. Also in many chef's knife roll I see a wide assortment where they have chosen the knife style and brand that fits them. Often they will have 3 or 4 brands or more in their kit.

Looking at knife brand that are available now worldwide on the Internet I am a bit overwhelmed. What do you have in your kitchen for everyday use?

I have too many actually; in quantity order Wusthof, Shun, Keene (looks like Victorinox), and Henckel. My wife also bought a set of knives from Wolfgang Puck from HSN shopping for us and our daughter. They are actually pretty good knives.

To add to the cutting board posssible myth another thing I have read is that if you can cut the board with your knife it is ok to use it. 

I only have one so it is not an issue. I am tempted to get the fine diamond wheel but have not as yet.

Looking at Wootz's videos he has a wire rack on the floor for stones. It looks like a pork rib BBQ rack only bigger.

When I look at most end grain cutting boards I notice that the blocks are arranged in a random fashion more for aesthetics not grain alignment. Making a block where the tree rings align with the knife edge would be very difficult.

Another variable that may impact the results; It seems Western chefs chop most things while Asian chefs seem to do more slicing. The design of the knives seems to support this as well.

I used the TT-50 grader the other day before sharpening a badly damaged knife. I enjoyed the added coarseness and it resulted in a quicker job.
I find for knives that I have sharpened previously I like to start out with the SG-250's grit somewhere in between coarse and fine extremes. I will then use the fine side of the grading stone for the final passes prior to honing. This process seems to work well when the knife does not need much metal removed.

Dale,
You may want to read this thread
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3955.0

It is a discussion on how to maintain an edge and I hope steeling will be further discussed in it.

To really see what is going on I think you need a microscope to evaluate the edge. The BESS tester should give you good information as well if you carefully control the variables in any experiment.

Perhaps this will make it into the myths of knife sharpening list.

Vadim, do you have any recommended articles on what steel is best and the proper use?

Here is a picture I found of the steel I have from Razor Edge. It is called Raz-R Steel. I have had used this for many years.
https://www.razoredgesystems.com/products/steels/product/21-raz-r-steel