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On a Facebook knife sharpening page there is a discussion on making the bvel less polished or toothy as they describe it. Here is a post. Does this make any sense to you? If so what am I missing?

"think of the edge bevel like a saw. The scratch pattern creates tiny serrations or teeth. The more refined or polished the smaller the teeth. Like the difference between a saw blade for metal and for wood. The larger the teeth the better the blade will grab when using a slicing motion. The more polished a bevel is the less pressure needed for push cuts. So how "toothy" or polished you want a bevel depends on the use of the blade"

I have done a few scissors for family and friends. They were all relatively inexpensive ones and I would have replaced them with a new pair if they did not turn out. Even after practicing I am reluctant to try a really good pair. The ones I did turned out well but my confidence is not where it should be for scissors. Plane blades and chisels are fun to do. My first chisel customer cut himself while handling one as he was so use to them being too dull to cut.

Glad to hear of your success. Creating muscle memory and slight adjustments while grinding and you will be repeating this on every knife.

Welcome micha; you are going to enjoy sharpening your knives and tools. The results that can be obtained are truly outstanding.

Also once you have tried the wheel I suggest that you mark the shaft and wheel so that you can position it in exactly the same place when you remove the wheel and subsequently reinstall it. There have been threads about this where a newly trued wheel will seem out of round by a small amount after removal and re-installation.

Have you watched the video by Jeff Farris where he shows lifting the end of the knife as you sharpen the curved portion? For most knives this does a good job if you practice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYURcwkKGPs

Welcome to the Tormek Community. This is an excellent resource for any sharpening question related to Tormek.

Welcome Mr HD to the Tormek community. When I first started with my Tormek I practiced on several old kitchen knives that I had for camping. I would recommend watching the Tormek videos or this one before starting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYURcwkKGPs&t=466s

Once you get started feel free to post any questions you might have.

Welcome John,
To answer your other questions on burr formation you want to take several passes in the same direction to raise a burr. I find that several passes (3-4)with moderate pressure with a coarse setting on the stone is best if the knife is quite dull. When sharpening a knife that you have previously done there is really no need to use the coarsest setting. I find that if you do not use the grading stone the grinding stone will settle in about half way between coarse and fine. I use this on most knives then grade fine for finishing the edge. If you watch the videos by Jeff Farris https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYURcwkKGPs&t=466s you will see he is not exerting much pressure. You may also find that it takes more passes if you are altering the angle on a knife. More work must be done if you are changing the angle say from 20° per side to 15°. If you look under magnification it is apparent where you have sharpened and where you have not when changing the angle.

Also watch the part of the video where he hones the blade on the leather wheel. This is a critical step in removing the final small burr that remains after sharpening both sides on the stone. Doing this step without a jig as he shows is not difficult but it takes a little practice to get the feel for it.

Sharpening using the Tormek should be relaxing. If you are feeling any stress in your shoulders or arms you are using too much force. Let the wheel do the work. When you are done sharpening it should cut newsprint very easily. I use the advertising from the grocery I get in the mail or a store receipt. If your knife will easily cut these it is sharper than 90% of new knives out of the box.

Welcome to the forum. I think you will find the members here will make every effort to answer any questions you might have.

I also recommend browsing the knife sharpening topics once you are comfortable with the machine. There are a number of great threads that will elevate your sharpening abilities and you will be turning out razor sharp edges in no time.

Please post what they say. It would be interesting to know a little bit about this seemingly obscure model.

The most important thing about kitchen knives is how they feel in your hand and the balance. If you are prepping large quantities of food an ill fitting knife can give you a blister. How much you want to spend is also a consideration. I would also recommend buying the knives that you need rather than a set unless you get a really great deal. You can get a block or roll up case as an add on. Most people rarely use all the knives in the sets they buy. I see this when I sharpen these sets for people. Some of the knives are well used while others look like they were just taken out of the box. Go to a shop like Sur La Table and hold the knives before investing. Also consider how well you are going to care for them before making a large investment.

I also remember the odd order of the item and adjectives. For example Patrol Boat, River or PBR.

I remember from my early engineering years working for the US Navy that when you use an acronym you must spell it out when first used in the document. While extra work this might help as there are 30 definitions for USB not including the Tormek one. While most can be ruled out by context it is not readily apparent what a Tormek USB is to the uninitiated.

I like the idea. No idea how much effort it would take to implement on this site. If it were to be done there are not that many things to define.