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This forum is full of people that have over oiled their honing wheel. Use the suggested oil and only miserly application. It should not be soaked and only a few drops on the entire wheel is sufficient. The drops should not be so large as to merge into each other. They will spread of their own accord to a sufficiently large area without over saturation. Just a little goes all the way. It will be nearly impossible to remove to much oil.

You can never make a little thing bigger, only one thing comes to mind on that but is another subject entirely. What I mean is that once I had the need to buy a gun safe and I bought the biggest that I could afford. I do not mean that literally as that might cause you to buy the T3 and that is a mistake. Save for what you cannot afford right now. You can always put less in a big thing but not more in a little thing. Even if you have to wait and save, then wait and save and get the T7. Also, keep and eye on eBarf, they sometimes have deals.

I have heard it said as "hot diggity" but never knew how to spell it until now! That meant, "yeah", "alright" or some other such superlative outburst.

My bench is of normal height, about 30, inches which makes it too high for me to use. I am 5' 9'' tall. My remedy is to stand on a stool that I made for this purpose. So with that I can look down and see the tool edge on the wheel. This would make the tool lower than waist high, the top of the tool at the highest point of the wheel. The tool grader does not wait on the next tool, it waits on the next sharpening session as determined by how much it was used last. If you are sharpening hard steel, I like to use it even during the same session to keep it grinding. It is possible to clog the wheel so that the grading tool becomes less and less effective. I cannot speak to the use of other compounds but feel confident they are interchangable as there are not any  "secret" ingredients being claimed by Tormek. I am sure that the more you use the machine, the happier you will become.

This is way after the fact for this post but could be of use for others. In my life I have discovered that in all things you are able to use less of the amount alloted to you. You can never use what was never there. In short, buy more than you need and use what you need of that. If you need more it is alreadyl there. 

I would say that the time to replace the stone is directly related to the amount of hollow grind that you can tolerate (or that the device can tolerate and still function as designed) on any given object. Clearly, there is a limit on how much can be tolerated on a certain edge and still be useful. I would imagine that a scalpel would be the last object to be sharpened on a small wheel as it could stand to be as sharp as possible. That same edge would be practically useless on a kitchen knife. In short, it is determined by aesthetic  as well as funtional issues and you are the judge.

So far it is two different opinions as I see it. Is there any reason to NOT use a standard carbide toothed blade on this beatch? Further, it is anticipated that this material may well have to be machined to fit the various groove sizes on my table saw. This would require a mill, so is this stuff millable? thanx again

That UHMWPE is the stuff you see that is used to provide a nice slippery surface for things to slide on. I anticipate using it to make a table saw sled. The nylon or plastic or whatever I have is about 3/8 inches thick. It is a solid sheet. Can you cut this on a table saw or what is best? thanx

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tormek-2006-Sharpening-System-Unused-/350769817507?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51ab82a7a3

Wow! They sure are proud of their knives at $30 each for that tiny piece of steel and a genuine wood handle. I don't know how expensive bubinga is but it must be some rare stuff.

I would think that any blade that had enough metal to remove a whole inch of stock and still be viable would be grossly misshapen after this treatment. I sure wish you would post a picture to show this butchery. I really cannot imagine people grinding on something so long in one place as to remove an inch of material. Is that a misprint/typo? It must surely look odd in its present condition.

I do not see any reason to buy this jig if you have to "rig" it to work with knives that it is supposed to be designed to sharpen. It has the same drawbacks as the other knife jigs regarding centering of the blade and its related grinding pattern on the edge. I wonder who is going to be able to cut 4mm spacers or 4.3mm or 4.2 etc to get the perfect setting? Can you say, "this is not the answer"?

Is there any reason that the Torlok attachment cannot be used or any advantage to the scissors jig especially if you already have the Torlok? thanx

I do not anticipate buying the DBS-22 so it is not necessary to provide any further info, I was just interested to see what you had done, thanx. If you post pics I am sure that I would look at them.

No luck joining that user group, not so easy for me.