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I did not know that you use the anglemaster with the wheel turning. I don't.

Sounds like the edge through constant honing has thinned to the point of destruction. I have trouble imagining the Global steel doing that but the proof is in the pudding. I know, it does sound ridiculous but what else could it be? I look forward to a knife wizard explaining this.

I'm gonna suggest that you bite the bullet and buy a new one. Seems to me that even a dull pizza cutter will break a crispy crust and it does not need to actually cut through. A limp undercooked crust might be a problem of course. The time and effort expended on this would not be worth it to me unless you just had nothing better to do.

It sounds to me like the stone has shifted on the shaft in some way. To correct, loosen the lock nut and rotate the wheel on the shaft with the shaft not moving about 1/4 turn and retighten. Turn machine on and observe the wheel. If it is now turning with no lateral motion you are good. If it is not, then loosen lock nut and rotate another 1/4 turn, tighten and observe. If this does not work, you have another 1//2 turn to work with before you are back at zero. At some point of you rotating the wheel on the shaft that is not moving, you should find the "sweet spot" wherein the wheel becomes 90 degrees perpendicular to the shaft. Of course you may reverse or advance the wheel to find this "sweet spot" and not necessarily 1/4 turn, it could be as little as 1/8 turn or less. If the wheel wobbles, then the plane of the surface of the wheel is not level to the table and you cannot make a flat edge. You must have a flat surface to make another flat surface unless you are God. That is my story and I am sticking to it! Be sure to read Hermans post below as I think that he is righter than me! LOL

For a knife like that you really need two counter rotating grinding wheels so that you can place the blade at the point where the wheels meet. Master Grade makes a good device that is relatively cheap that uses this function. You could of course upgrade to a F Dick sharpener but the cost will make you sick. Either one is too much an investment unless you are going to be paid for your service.

I must assume that Jeff Farris is correct, and having said that I say that you need to lay a heavier hand on the grader when switching between the two stone grades. With your knowledge Herman, I really hesitate to say anything but you said there was a problem. I bare down on the grader to just before bogging the wheel and leave it there for several seconds under pressure. Good luck.

Not unless it has water in it. Water expands when frozen and thus cracks the stone. Just make sure it is BONE dry. Do not use any form of antifreeze in your water either, it is bad for the stone. Good luck.

That is what the truing tool is for. If you have one, that is all you need. If you do not have one, then you need one. Water would not cause the stone to go out of round. Maybe if the water froze in the stone it would bulge or split but I am just guessing there.

Only a certain amount of the usable length can be utilized for each tool. At some point, you are going to be to far from the grinding wheel or the angle will be so acute that it is useless for your application. The only exception that I can think of offhand would be on a really, really long bladed knife.

Take a deep breath, exhale and then look on eBarf. Buy from a seller with great feedback. I got what I thought was a good deal on there. Shipping is going to be in the $50  range on this item if it goes any distance at all.

Jeff Farris, the resident guru says that you can. I have never done it or heard of it except by him. If you attempt it, I sure would like to hear of your adventures.

I am with Grepper on this. I once said that it was not possible to sharpen serrated knife blades and Jeff Farris said he has done it for years using the rounded edge of the grinding wheel. You have to round over the edge yourself. In this case it would be very destructive to the wheel in that the amount of rounding necessary is very excessive and would render the flat part of the wheel that was left so narrow as to be useless for most other applications. I am going out on a limb again and say that this is not possible on the Tormek unless you dedicate the grinding wheel to this one job. I would suggest finding the arc of the curve of the blade and turning on a lathe a piece of material such as wood and matching that curve. Then, attaching some fine grade of sandpaper to same and stroking with this abrasive coated rod to sharpen the blade. Finish on the curved leather wheel that Tormek makes for rounded tools. The curve of this wheel is really too tight but would work in a pinch. Merry Christmas.

The learning curve on the Tormek is substantial when you try to use all the various attachments. This is not going to be a buy a Tormek and begin to sharpen all the tools that you have ever seen and not professional hair cutter shears at all.

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So, I've been doing the impossible for 20 years? 

Most serrated blades are hollow ground on one side and beveled on the other. The hollow ground sound appears flat, but rarely is. Even in those cases where the flat side is truly flat, the hollow from the Tormek wheel will not alter the knife's performance.

Grade the stone fine, being careful to get a completely smooth surface. Freehand grind the hollow grind, keeping it as flat on the wheel as possible. Then use the corner of the leather honing wheel to work in and out of each tooth on the beveled side. Don't worry about what the angle is, just follow what's already there. Hone the hollow ground side as well.

Now, the caveat is, this only works on knives that are dull, not on ones that are nicked or damaged. But to whitewash the issue with the statement than you can't possibly sharpen a serrated knife of any kind or condition is misleading.

Now we know why Jeff Farris is the administrator and I am not. My serrated knives are not worth the time as I imagine this to be quite time consuming. My "expensive" serrated knife cost about $15 and the only reason that I paid that is that it has a 14" blade. Even in that case, I would not take the time to resharpen it. All that it is used for is bread and or doughy stuff and should last a longgggggggggg time.

You cannot sharpen a serrated edge knife with any degree of consistency on the Tormek using any of the attachments offered and certainly not freehanded.