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Amazon has them for $849! Better hurry, I expect a rapid sell out at that price. NOT.

 

Personally, I would invest in a second Tormek unit first.  Being able to go directly from the standard wheel to the fine Japanese wheel would be a real luxury.  For someone who had varied needs including a lot of high speed steel, having a second dedicated unit with the SB wheel would also be a luxury.

I have a second Tormek set up just as you suggested, with a 4000 grit Japanese stone that is not a Tormek product. Also, just as you said; it is a luxury that is just that. It is a luxury that is not needed at all. Use the money on this chest if you have that kind of discretionary funding. I have used the fine grade stone and it makes an edge shine like silver but does not make it noticeably sharper that the finely graded Tormek stone.

Ken
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I see that the greeting at the top of the page no longer mentions Jeff but this is the first that I have heard of his no longer being moderator. No mention of any kind, sort of makes me sad but nothing lasts forever. Thanks Jeff.

I have noticed over time that there are members who are relatively active in making posts. I then notice that you no longer hear from them. I wonder what becomes of them. I am sure that Tormek does not want to release their private contact information but Jeff Farris, have you ever considered a personal "hello" or some such contact to determine their health and/or welfare?

I would update my truing tool and square edge jig as I still use the older versions.  Then I'd get the Drill Bit Sharpening Attachment, the Profiled Leather Honing Wheel, the Axe Jig, the Japanese Waterstone, the Rotating Base, and the Machine Cover.

I forgot to add the Tool Rest, Bench Grinder Mount, Dursol Metal Polish, and the Advanced Water Trough.

That adds up to about $1056.  The Tormek Sharpening Station is $787.

And yes, Rob, we're talking about winning the lottery here.  And in my case that would be really hard to do since I never buy a ticket!

You mean that you have to buy a ticket to play? NO wonder I never win.

I have read the entire string.  Glass guys suggestion is the best.  One inch rise of the USA would not be bad for stability.  You should exercise diligence when sharpening at 25 degrees or more on bigger knives, I have had many flip inward on me.  Both hands must be steady. 
A 3.5 inch tall cleaver at 35degres cannot be sharpened using the standard t7 universal support arm,

You do know that you can sharpen with the grinding wheel turning away from you, don't you? This will eliminate all possibility of the blade edge coming back toward you. While perhaps not as aggressive as the wheel turning towards you, it is infinitely safer.

 dancing angels are about to hove into view....but this was about honour, not engineering :-)
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Since we are arguing semantics, the angels would heave into view unless they are gone and then would have hove into view, past tense. I think!

The answer would seem to be elementary for the reasons you have stated. It cannot be stronger or even as strong with all else being equal since it has less metal to support the cutting edge. So sayeth Sherlock Holmes when I forwarded this to him. How are things on Baker St today?

I have never done this but how about grinding two flats onto the shaft and holding it in a vise or a wrench and turning the stone. You would have tremendous leverage turning the stone. If that did not hold the shaft well enough, then grind two sets of flats and hold the shaft with two wrenches. You could surely wedge them into something to hold them. Use WD 40 on the shaft to help loosen it. You might simply drill a hole through the shaft and turn it with a rod, a real strong rod! A much more complicated idea would be to drill into the center of the shaft and then turn it with a tap thereby breaking it loose. Of course this would require precise drilling as I would drill it in increasingly larger sizes in order to lessen the holding power of the stuck shaft. Let us know the result.

Hi Ken,

I'd say that every double-beveled ("V-beveled") knife that gets clamped into the knife jig (long or short jigs: I have no experience with the newest jig for very small knives) has minor angle variances from side to side (anywhere from half a degree to a couple whole degrees variance). This is not as apparent on knives that have a very thin edge to begin with (thus a very small width of bevel), but on knives with a thicker bevel, it becomes obvious quite quickly.

So, on that end, it's a limitation of the Tormek knife clamp system. That said, operator experience can mitigate these issues if they're kept i mind during the sharpening process. It gets finicky in having to stop and measure the angle (or at the very least adjust it) every time you flip the jig over, but with a little practice, you get the flow down.

Travis
That is exactly what I was referring to in my previous post when I wrote this, "Perhaps it is unnoticeable on a cheap paring knife but instantly spotted on a thicker bladed knife" but I thought that was well known as it has been mentioned before by someone else more learned than me.

 but you also have to remember that those who pick up those inconsistencies are also the ones who would probably be doing their own knife sharpening in the first place.


I cannot argue with that!

First thoughts from my world are that if you cannot freehand that curved blade then it cannot be done on the Tormek. Noway the blade on my paper cutter is going to fit into a Tormek jig. Good luck.

I am rather surprised that you are able to use the Tormek in a commercial setting. I mean that it is impossible to duplicate the edge grind on a thick blade knife without readjusting the knife in the rest. We all know that the current blade rests SVM-45 and SVM-140 do not allow the same grind pattern on two different sides of a thicker blade. Perhaps it is unnoticeable on a cheap paring knife but instantly spotted on a thicker bladed knife. I have to assume that your customers have not spotted this or do not care because the sharp edge they has them overwhelmed. Personally, I would see it. More power to you and continued success.

I see now what you mean. I would have said honing steel but that is just me.  I took you to mean steel blades as made by Global Knife Co.

The man has called his knives "Global" for reasons known but to him. They are not "Global brand" knives and so are not the same steel. See his response to my reply above.