Messages

Hi,
I have not sharpened a tool like that before but I think you might be able to sharpen it using the SVS-38.
Having the universalsupportbar close to the stone would probably make it work.

Sincerely,
Stig

Very nice words, thank you Doug!
Wish you the best in the future.

Sincerely,

Stig

http://tormek.com/media/448712/hb-10-en-v101-se-76.pdf

From the handbook, page 125 about chambers.

Sincerely,
Stig

Steve,
http://tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/se-76-square-edge-jig/
Watch this video, mount the tool as explained. Use pressure where you need to remove material. If the edge is 90 degree when you start to sharpen, press in the middle, id you see that it starts to move, use pressure on the side where you need to remove more material.
Also, you freehand sharpen, check that the stone is flat. If not, true it before.

SE-76 is a very good and precise jig. Complaints is almost every-time a operator issue :-)
Be sure that the stone is flat and use pressure correct on the tool and be sure the tool is mounted correctly in the jig.

Sincerely,
Stig

Hi ,
When there is discussions about sharpening and edges we almost never talk about the fact of pressure.
Next time you true the stone, take a chisel or a plane blade and try different pressure on the tool.  Sharpen half of the tools edge with normal pressure and less pressure on the second half.
There is a huge difference already on a stone that is about 220 grid.
Use the fine side of the stonegrader about 40 seconds on the stone and try the same thing when the stone is about 1000 grid. Still a difference.

I think I do apply more pressure while sharpening than the common Tormek user but always use very little pressure the last 5-10 seconds before I hone the tool.
That gives me a perfect edge every time.

Our stonegrader is what we find most efficient to use on our stones. We know that a diamondplate can flatten the grids/stone perfectly at the same height and give a great result. However, after a while grids will break and make scratches on the tools surface.
So we don't find it good enough and therefore offer the Japanese stone.
After use it takes me about 1 minute to clean the stone with our SP-650 so I cant see any reason to buy other stones to use.
With that said, we all do things a bit different and even when using the stonegrader we use different pressure which will give us a different view of the stonegrader.
I see the stonegrader as the stones best friend and could not use a Tormek without having it close to the machine.

Sincerely,
Stig

Hi,
I will send your request to our marketing department so they make a note of it in the file "Things to do" :-)

Sincerely,
Stig

Hi,
Tormek welcome's Ken S as a new moderator.
His long time membership and his eagerness to learn more about sharpening and Tormek will benefit the forum in a even more positive way.

Sincerely,
Stig

Ken,
You found the right technique with the Blackstone. The grid is almost twice as hard but they break and get dull with to high pressure. When you use less pressure than on the SG stone the Blackstone does a faster job.

Sincerely,
Stig

Rob,
You might be in trouble in the future ;-)

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Working on that!

Sincerely,
Stig

Try to use less "speed" when you reach the edge of the stone, that will minimize the problem with flakes on the edge.

Sincerly,
Stig

Hi,
We don't recommend to sharpen ceramic knifes with our machine. The edge on a ceramic knife is to fragile.
Our thought is that you should be able to get the tools you are sharpening as sharp or sharper than new.
We have tried to sharpen ceramic knifes and can get it sharp but is very hard to get it as sharp as new.
The SB-250 stone on 1000 grid and very little pressure makes a good job but not a perfect edge.

Stig

Hi guys,
Its possible to mount both vertical and horizontal sleeves on that machine.
You need to drill one hole to the sleeve on the top, the one that's already there is perfectly placed.
Please contact our agent in the country you live in and they will help you get the right parts.

http://tormek.com/international/en/resellers/

Sincerly,
Stig

I find this post interesting and have followed it and I will add to this post that using the honing wheel freehand is easier than to sharpen freehand on the stone. The leather is very forgiving and gives a great edge, as long as you don't lift the blade to much and get a to steep angle so you round the edge.

With a platform you will/might bump into the stone with the tip or handle on chef's knives. Jan has an interesting idea about the U-form though.
Remember that the stone gets smaller during the years and the leather wheel stays the same.

When honing with the same ideas that are in this post, but freehand, and with a movement so you don't bump into the stone, the edge will get razor sharp.

Sharpening with the stones direction will give a longer burr and it takes longer time to hone but it's easier to feel with the fingertips.
Sharpening towards the stones direction has a bonus that you use the water to see that you are holding the knife flat on the stone and the stone don't get uneven as fast, and you don't need to true it very often. It is also a bit faster but needs some more practise and caution so the knife don't catches edge of the stone.

Best,
Stig

Correct!

Best,
Stig