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Messages - Rob

#1
The product has arrived, just not had chance to apply yet.  Will keep you posted.
#2
Righto.  Thanks John.
#3
Peanut butter is the goto bait for Tom n Jerry style spring mousetraps. Works a treat and easy to apply. Get smooth not crunchy
#4
Right, ordered a can off Amazon, arrives tomorrow with a bit of luck. I'll report results in due course.

#5
Many thanks John
#6
Quote from: John Hancock Sr on July 08, 2024, 01:32:39 AM
Quote from: Rob on July 06, 2024, 10:44:41 PMmy T7 does keep having torque challenges where pressure applied to the grindstone tends to halt the wheel. I've taken the advice and "roughed up" the drive wheel with sandpaper and it mildly improved but didn't really fix the problem.

Not entirely convinced by the sandpaper approach. I had an old T7 which had persistent slipping and I used belt grip compound. It is available from automotive parts suppliers. Sometimes referred to as "never slip". It comes under different brand names and meant for Vee belts but works a treat on the Tormek drive wheel. I keep a spray can handy for my various machines.

Interesting. Does that make the rubber sort of "sticky" then?  More apt to allow friction between the drive shaft and itself?

Also, that brand, are we talking UK or US?

Many thanks. Rob
#7
Ok thanks chaps. Good advice there. When I get back from hols I'll investigate. I hadn't realised my shaft was stainless with a vintage of 2013 so it looks like the drive wheel is where my focus needs to be. I'll disassemble and check it all out.

Thanks for the tips (I have a turkey baster that has reached that age where it will feel more comfortable in my workshop!)
#8
Well it's funny you should mention Robert Pirsig because I was musing along the same lines when I wrote that post. Here's part of what was driving the upside of that deal idea.....

... my T7 has the older style water bath operating mechanism and my sense is the T8 innovation with the winding up/down design is superior.

... my T7 does keep having torque challenges where pressure applied to the grindstone tends to halt the wheel. I've taken the advice and "roughed up" the drive wheel with sandpaper and it mildly improved but didn't really fix the problem. I've got the original shaft, not the posh newer one with tool free wheel release.

... so it had occurred to me that I should take the "quality" approach and be more concerned with a little deepening of things and replace or maintain those bugs. But then the ghost of Jeff Farris suddenly entered my rather pleasant visions of Mr Pirsig and rudely pronounced " he who dies with the most tools; wins".  That abruptly burst my Pirsig bubble with a veritable burst of "shiny". Then I found myself post rationalising the idea that a second machine would indeed be a useful addition to my workshop. That's the same workshop I rarely get chance to enter these days due to work commitments 😎.

To add insult to injury, I have vouchers for Axminster from Xmas presents of old so it's not even real money, not all of it at least!!

But of course you're right, I should fix the T7 shouldn't I?  Shouldn't I?
#9
I think it is yes. Didn't realise it had a name 😎
#10
There's a promotion in the UK right now from Axminster tools. Unrelated to this one but interesting nonetheless. It allows you to buy a naked T8 or 4 to essentially switch out your older T2000 or T7 motor. You can salvage your existing wheels and mount them on a nice shiny new T8 with the easier to use water bath.

Cost is £400 odd. I'm seriously considering it
#11
Wood Turning / Re: bowl gouge question
June 23, 2024, 09:19:28 PM
Rich's response is a comprehensive one and will save you hours of time finding the right pages of the manual.

I will add one thing further that should help once you're grinding. Once you've got a trial and error match for the angle as per Rich, you need to be really careful at the nose of the tool, lest you grind away a smooth curve. As you swing the tool through the arc controlled by the jigs, there is a tendency to spend too much time at the nose. Instead, focus the grind on wing 1, then wing 2 and only when they've reached nirvana, join the sides at the nose so you have a rational, continuous curve.

Once done, when turning, keep the jigs dialled in and when you want to get that gorgeous finishing cut, just re mount the gouge and give it a tickle, avoiding the tedium of a full jig resetting.

If you have the silicon black stone it helps too if you're removing a lot of material and tool is high speed steel (it likely will be)

Hope this helps
Rob
#12
Yes be careful folks. I believe the OP was referring to deburring the chainsaw BAR not the teeth of the chain itself. You could never use a Tormek to sharpen a tooth obviously.

The Oregon jig or similar is the way to go to sharpen inside any given chainsaw tooth, observing the correct geometry, tilt angle and so on. The grinding wheel in that case is thin enough to get inside the gullet of the tooth.

The Tormek in this case was being considered as a means of dressing the edge of the chain bar. These have a tendency to develop a sharp burr through use.
#13
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: The T1. Should I get one?
April 22, 2024, 11:49:24 PM
Brilliant Ken. I'm so glad you kept the item your Father made. That's a lovely memory.

I'm liking the direction of this thread
#14
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: The T1. Should I get one?
April 21, 2024, 10:55:43 AM
Quote from: Elden on April 20, 2024, 05:25:49 PMRob,
  Good to hear from you and that you are doing well! Thanks for inquiring. I'm doing well. Have been staying busy with other things such as gardening, etc. Haven't used the Tormek for quite sometime. Have done a fair amount of chainsaw chain sharpening but that has slackened  off since my son got out of the tree service buisness.

Ken,
  Thanks for the message alert! It's a good thing that I had the password recorded as I didn't remember it.

Elden

Hi Mate

Dam good to hear from you too. Crikey, at this rate, Jeff Farris will poke his head round the digital door any minute now 😂.

I too spend a fair time in the garden Elden and built a greenhouse 2 years ago which I absolutely love. I also have a wood burning stove so regularly sharpen my chainsaw blades too. In fact just last October I treated myself to the Stihl MS 550 which is the fuel injected model. My word that thing is an animal, especially with a 20" bar. So much power and a doddle to start. I've long had the Oregon sharpening tool for chains and I will buy an Alaskan mill once my kids are at University. I can't wait to mill my own lumbar. I think underneath it all I'm a frustrated horticulture lumberjack!  The two things I like doing the most are gardening and cutting logs!

#15
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: The T1. Should I get one?
April 18, 2024, 09:39:48 AM
Morning all from across the pond. Hi Herman, nice to hear you're still grabbing a square and a saw every now and then. That's more or less my level of use today too. That will remain until I reach the luxury of retirement. The Holy Grail!!

I remember your jig, no wonder you wouldn't consider a T1. I on the other hand am still possessed of the opinion that "he who dies with the most tools, wins" 😎

Also my workshop is a fair stroll from my kitchen and I don't have a wonder jig.

Right, gotta go..  work calls. Have a lovely day chaps and never forget, Robert is your Mothers brother!