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Hi Ken - good information - I took delivery of an SB-250 just yesterday so it looks
like I have a learning curve ahead of me.

Lou

Thanks guys for all the nice comments and suggestions.

Ken - I actually do have a vinyl spacer in back of the wheel to allow for air circulation although my routine is
to allow 4-5 days for the wheel to dry - I contemplated drilling 2 or 3 holes top & bottom for ventilation and still
may do that. The wheel is not in the original box - I just used the front box cover and hot glued it in. I was really
concerned about the height so I mocked up a prototype until I got the height that felt right (around 24 inches) and
yes I usually just walk around to the back side instead of rotating. I need that baster tho!

Rick - yep it is a DD and I'm not thrilled with it either - the other device is a Chef's Choice sharpener which is just so-so in
my opinion, especially since I got the T8 - no comparison. My primary goal with the T8 was sharpening chisels and planes
for woodworking with kitchen knives a close second place. I am definitely considering the DBS-22 (notice the empty 3rd drawer  ).

Lou

I bought a T8 some months ago and realized that I needed to have some sort of mobility for my basement shop. I designed it around the foam storage that come with the jigs so I built the drawers to fit them. I also needed some way to store my SJ stone and also SB (which is on the way). I didn't feel comfortable having the stones without protection when moving around the shop so I made some covers. Anyway, I thought I post some pictures - so far it's working great.

The finished cart:


Added an LED light:


SJ stone hanging on a 12mm hex bolt (bolt through double 3/4" plywood and epoxied from inside cabinet) - there is another bolt on opposite side for the SB.


Cover for the stone:


And yes - I'm into Festool - the systainer contains my diamond plates and other sharpening stuff.


Lou

[/quote]

Turn the  grinding wheel, not the nut.

Watch this video... at the 4:38 mark...

https://youtu.be/IX96a9WoAJE?t=4m38s

If you need to change stone, turn the stone clockwise while fixating the leather honing wheel with the other hand and the EzyLock will easily loosen.
[/quote]

Well, that was easy - thanks for the link. The humbling part is that I have watched that video several times and missed that little tidbit

Lou

Thanks - as a new user I watched all the videos including that one but seem to have overlooked that fine point!

....
Incidentally, I have seen one complaint that the EzyLok nut could only be removed by the use of a monkey wrench.

I encountered this yesterday - I wanted to remove the stone in order to see what the gap was next to the water trough and machine housing (T-8) since I was getting a bit of water running down and filling the SB. I could not remove the nut - even tried channel locks with no success - I just gave up.

Suggestions anyone? My T-8 is about a week old.

Edit: I just wanted to add that I do realize it's a reverse threaded nut - I was turning "righty loosy" 

Lou

Thanks for all the great suggestions - first I'm going to try using less water - as a new user I was constantly refilling to the maximum level and thinking back that would bring a lot of excess water to the top of the rotating wheel.

Lou

Hello all - new member here and my first post. I bought the T-8 less than a week ago and have been learning a lot! Before purchasing it I watched all the videos that I could find and they were a great help. I discovered this forum and have picked up a lot of great tips and will continue to do so I'm sure. So far I have sharpened about 10 chisels, a couple plane blades and 3 or 4 kitchen knives (I also bought the hand tool kit). Although not perfect, I am really pleased with my results so far - I was always somewhat frustrated with water stones, sandpaper, diamond plates etc - my results were inconsistent - user error and probably a little impatience on my part. I've been woodworking as a hobbyist for about 30 years and ever since I saw Norm and Jeff Farris on the NYW I wanted a Tormek!

I also got the swivel base - my annoyance is that water drips off (especially with knives but really with everything) onto the body of the machine and flows down into the top of the swivel base and fills it with water. I noticed that it is designed to hold some amount of water and that everything is pretty much made of plastic. After each session it requires removing the T-8, emptying the water and drying it off - I don't think that I would want to leave it in standing water like that. Also, at some point it begins to overflow. So is this normal and it is just part of the sharpening routine to remove the base at the end and set it up at the start?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Lou