Hi Guys, I'm now the proud owner of a 2000, 9pressie from te wife), and have spent the afternoon playing.
The machine is second hand but looks in pristine condition but after a while I noticed the grind pattern on a chisel looked one sided. After a closer look it seems the plastic bearings in the flat tool holder are worn to one side.
I've spent the best part of an hour lookinbg to find a supplier here in the UK but to no avail, can anyone help?
Cheers,
Phil.
A quick Google search shows these people. I am sure there are others. Just type Tormek UK into your search bar and see what pops up.
http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/brand.php/show/Tormek
Thanksd jeff,
Had a look and cant see them on theor site, I'll keep looking. Surely these should be relativealy easy to get hold of?
TC
Phil,
Welcome to the forum. I believe what you want is the bushing #3120. These cost $1.25 US each. If you go on the tormek.com website and click on where to buy. Brimark is the UK agent. They should be able to help you.
Check sharptoolsusa.com , tormek , replacement parts , parts finder to see good drawings of the parts.
Good luck, and do keep us posted.
Ken
Thanks Ken, I'm on it now.
TC
Whilst I'm here, my Tormek does seem a tad noisy which surprises me, should I be looking at the shaft as when I put some pressure on a tool last night I was able to stop the wheel turning?
TC
The Tormek motor drives the wheel through contact pressure of the drive shaft on a rubber wheel. Therefore the shaft must have maximum grip on the wheel. Since your machine is older, it may be possible that oxidation and or hardening of the surface of the rubber wheel has occurred. Some light sanding of the rubber wheel may be in order to give the surface of the wheel more traction. So get some fine sandpaper and give it a try. Conversely, make sure the rubber wheel is dry and tacky and does not have oily contamination. I do not know the amount of pressure you put on it but we all put significant pressure on the grinding wheel when changing its "grit" texture so it is doubtful you are leaning on it that much.
Quote from: topconker on December 26, 2015, 06:01:32 PM
The machine is second hand but looks in pristine condition but after a while I noticed the grind pattern on a chisel looked one sided. After a closer look it seems the plastic bearings in the flat tool holder are worn to one side.
That indicates the machine got a lot of use, at least with that jig. Is it the newer S-76 Square Edge jig, or the older SVH-60 Straight Edge jig?
I recommend you remove the grindstone with main shaft attached. This is done by first removing the honing wheel and drive wheel from the opposite end of the main shaft. Once you have it on the bench you can remove the main shaft from grindstone. Clean the main shaft and lubricate nylon bearings. If the nylon bearings are also worn you can replace them for a small price, too.
After re-assembly true the grindstone. If you don't have the truing tool buy one, it's a must-have.
A freshly-trued grindstone will be in a very coarse state, so grind away on a tool that needs re-shaping before you try sharpening a knife.
I've taken a look at the bearings after I removed the drive and yes there is decernable movement in the bearings. I can't see any rust on the shaft and to be honest don't know how to check if it is stainless or mild steel.
I tried the motor without the drive wheel and it is silent and after looking closely at it can see "flat" spots on it that corresponge with the rotational noise so looks like I may have to replace that as well!
The serial number is:296528 but I can't find anywhere that I can check to see the date of manufacture.
How do I check to see which between the S-76 and the SVH-60 straight Edge jigs?
TC
Phil,
The SE-76 (square edge jig) has a shoulder to mate with the side of a chisel. It also uses the back of the chisel as the reference surface. In this case, the back of the chisel is the edge away from the grinding wheel.
The SVH-60 has the chisel sitting on top of the main jig and uses the top of the chisel as the reference surface. Both jigs use the same bushings.
Tormek support in Sweden is on holiday until next week. If you email them the serial number of your Tormek after that, they should be able to tell you the date of manufacture. The email address is support@tormek.se . they should also be able to tell you if the unit was shipped with a stainless or regular steel shaft (assuming you have the original shaft).
If you don't have any rust on the shaft, I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure to dump the water and wipe your Tormek after each sharpening session and clean/regrease the shaft a couple times a year.
Jeff and Herman have given you good advice about the rubber drive wheel.
If your truing tool is not the newer design (TT-50) which works with the new micro adjust universal support, they are worth replacing.
Do keep us posted.
Ken
Quote from: topconker on December 27, 2015, 08:47:47 PM
I can't see any rust on the shaft and to be honest don't know how to check if it is stainless or mild steel.
The newer stainless shaft has the EzyLock feature that allows you to remove the grindstone without any tools. The older steel shaft has a hex nut that requires a wrench for grindstone removal.
QuoteHow do I check to see which between the S-76 and the SVH-60 straight Edge jigs?
It should be stamped on the jig. Spend a few minutes looking at www.tormek.com. All of these differences are explained and illustrated there quite well.
Herman,
My 2009 vintage T7 came with a "regular" ( right hand thread) stainless shaft with a hex nut. I believe the shafts were made this way for several years.
Ken
Ahhh... So the stainless steel main shaft came out before the EzyLock feature came out. I didn't know that. I guess, then, one way to tell the stainless from the plain steel shaft would be appearance. Regular steel gets a patina that's familiar to most knife sharpeners. I can spot it quite easily. Also, I just checked and my stainless main shaft is nonmagnetic.
Well..., huh. Thanks Herman. Good info. I had no idea that some stainless steel could be nonmagnetic. I've never run across that. Interesting.
http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/why-dont-magnets-work-on/
Just checked and my shaft is magnetic with a hex nut.
The jig is a SVH-60.
Not sure whether to buy a new stainless shaft or just the nylon bearings, (once I can find them), buy the way which grease should I use?
TC
White lithium grease works fine.
I replaced the stainless shaft on my first Tormek with the EZYlock. I really like it. However, in your case, it would not be my first priority.
Ken
Thanks ken, just been looking at it and see it is in either a spray form or just a tube, would the spray be a better option?
TC
Quote from: grepper on December 28, 2015, 05:28:45 AM
Well..., huh. Thanks Herman. Good info. I had no idea that some stainless steel could be nonmagnetic. I've never run across that. Interesting.
http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/why-dont-magnets-work-on/
Grepper, thanks for posting the link to the magnetic properties of stainless steels. It is the best short explanation I have ever read. :)
Jan
TC,
Either a tube or spray will work. You will probably end up using the grease more for other things than for your Tormek. Choose what you think might be the most convenient for around the house things. I might opt for a spray can with a tube for narrow application.
More on my EZYlock comment: The nylon bearings are inexpensive, and, if your shaft is not rusted, your Tormek has received good care over the years. I believe the most important first step for a new Tormeker is to get the stone true and graded properly. A new shaft won't help you there, however, if you do not have the present TT-50 truing tool and universal support with micro adjust, they will. If you happen to have the older truing tool, you can save some money by purchasing a TT-50U (the U standing for upgrade. It allows you to reuse your existing diamond cluster.)
Take a good look at your stone grader. The coarse side should be coarse. Unknown to me, my stone grader became worn. You need a good stone grader. New ones are not expensive.
Ken
I use Super Lube synthetic grease for the bearings. I've never had it fail. It maintains lubricity from -45F to 450F, is impervious to water and never breaks down. It seems to work great. It's easy to find at local stores. I squirt it around the place like holy water.
http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-greases-ezp-44.html
OK, I've stripped the wheels off and checked the plastic/nylon bearings, they are definitely gone.
I've checked the shaft which has no rust so thinking it may be stainless even though it is magnetic and there is no wear on it.
So, bushes it is then to solve the problem.
Guess I need to invest in a truing device next.
TC
Quote from: topconker on December 28, 2015, 12:05:01 PM
Just checked and my shaft is magnetic with a hex nut.
The jig is a SVH-60.
Not sure whether to buy a new stainless shaft or just the nylon bearings, (once I can find them), buy the way which grease should I use?
You can use whatever grease you have on hand. A Teflon based spray lubricant works well, as does any type of waterproof silicone grease. I use lithium because I have some on hand.
3061 is the part number for the nylon bearing. Very inexpensive. I wouldn't buy a new main shaft unless I had to, but that's just me saving money.
I also have the older SVH-60 jig and have never upgraded to the newer SE-76.
Quote from: grepper on December 28, 2015, 05:28:45 AM
Well..., huh. Thanks Herman. Good info. I had no idea that some stainless steel could be nonmagnetic. I've never run across that. Interesting.
http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/why-dont-magnets-work-on/
Nonmagnetic stainless is used quite a bit in the medical field/hospitals. You wouldn't want magnetic stainless steel around any MRI machines. :o
Quote from: Herman Trivilino on December 29, 2015, 04:06:05 AM
You can use whatever grease you have on hand.
Maybe. Some lubes can deteriorate plastics:
http://machinedesign.com/mechanical-drives/engineering-essentials-lubrication-tips-plastic-gears-and-more-part-2
While functionally the Tormek is almost the opposite, I know from model helicopters that have nylon and other plastic gears, plastic compatible lubrication is important. Head speeds can exceed 2,000 RPM, and care needs to be taken to avoid lubricants that can degrade plastic main gears. Deterioration could cause a crash of a $1,500.00+ model. Besides, any failure of these things can be extremely dangerous and have resulted in many injuries and even death from people being hit by their models. Even the smaller models can cause severe injuries. Loose control and you can be hit before you even have time to react.
This guy is one of, if not the best RC pilots in the world. Nonetheless, I think he is insane to be so close. If any little part failed.... He screws up and crashes about 4:30 in the vid.
Think of the forces involved in this! You sure would not want the main gear weakened by the wrong lubricant:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIOwHURs4-I
Just received and fitted the nylon bearings, (brilliant service from Axminster tools), which has made a huge difference and the unit now runs quietly and smoothly.
Tried to fit the small bushes to the flat tool jig but failing big time. I'm afraid just to hammer them in but can't get enough push with my fingers, any tips?
TC
Aha, just sorted it, pressed in with the vice jaws, Simples!
TC
Great job, TC!
Ken
Just a quick update, invested in a dressing tool and used it to flatten the stone. I was amazed to find I had to take off 2mm to get the stone flat & square, great investment!
TC
Quote from: topconker on January 14, 2016, 10:17:47 PM
Just a quick update, invested in a dressing tool and used it to flatten the stone. I was amazed to find I had to take off 2mm to get the stone flat & square, great investment!
TC
In the future don't let it get anywhere near as bad as that again. An out-of-round grindstone will quickly get much worse very fast. It's best to keep it close to true. Also, keep an old tool in need of reshaping handy. A freshly-trued grindstone is far too coarse to be used for fine work like knife-sharpening.
TC,
I'm glad you posted that! I had a similar experience with my T4. After a small amount of use, I needed several light passes with the truing tool. I really believe the T 4 should either be sold with the TT-50 included( and priced in) or at least with the stated need to true the grinding wheel.
Herman, are you using the newer truing tool (TT-50)? I have not found the surface with the TT-50 ground slowly to be very coarse. I should state that my stone grader is worn out and does not restore to coarse. It will be replaced very soon. Incidentally, the TT-50U (upgrade) is available at a lower cost. It allows the user to reuse the diamond cluster from the earlier model.
Kenjig
Quote from: Ken S on January 15, 2016, 03:17:16 AM
Herman, are you using the newer truing tool (TT-50)? I have not found the surface with the TT-50 ground slowly to be very coarse.
I'm still using the older truing tool. I wasn't aware that the newer one gave you anything other than a coarse finish.
Have you tried using the corner of your stoner grader?
Quote from: Ken S on January 15, 2016, 03:17:16 AM
I should state that my stone grader is worn out and does not restore to coarse. It will be replaced very soon.
Ken,
I know this is not the first time you have stated this. Has the coarse side of your stone grader worn all the way through to the fine side? I assume the particles that does the grading are consistently mingled throughout the whole coarse side medium. Surely it isn't like a bar of soap that just doesn't function as well at its center. Maybe Stig can fill us in on that. I am not saying you don't know what you are talking about, far from it! I have been wondering about it for sometime. Would you post a couple of pictures of it?
Herman,
With the newer truing tool (TTS-50) you have some control over the coarseness by varying the speed with the screw feed. I have always used a slow speed, approximately ninety seconds to traverse the fifty millimeter face of the SG-250 grinding wheel. I should try a faster, coarser feed sometime.
Herman and Elden,
There is plenty of material remaining on the coarse side of my stone grader. The surface is just worn smooth. In my next photo session I will photograph it. The sides are also worn smooth. I have used it for seven years. It had a lot of use preparing for and during demoing at the two day show last fall. I did not notice when the wear became critical. I finally noticed the wear when I was loading my T4 into a single ball size bowling ball bag. The bag is another of my ideas. With the SG-200 in its corrugated box flat on the bottom of the bag, the T4 sits atop the wheel box. The bag easily holds all the jigs and accessories needed for most work. The T4 is light and compact enough to be easily carried. It is really "TTG" (Tormek to go). The unused stone grader from the T4 felt very different. The coarse side is coarse.
After I photograph it, I plan to try rubbing against a cinder building block. I almost ruined a two hundred dollar diamond flattening plate flattening my grandfather's old oilstone. I won't kill off the diamond plate or my hands with carborundum powder trying to rescue a twenty nine dollar stone grader. Like grinding wheels, it is a consumable.. The smooth side is also cupped. It has served honorably and has been retired.
I might try using the grinding wheel dressing stick with it. The dressing stick is harder than the stone grader. It should remove material from the stone grader, but may not restore the needed coarseness.
The next time you visit a Tormek dealer, try feeling a brand new stone grader and compare it with your well used one at home. You, too, might be surprised!
Ken
Sorry guys, need yet more help!
Just took delivery of a SVM-45 grinding jig for knives which was one of the main things I intend to use my Tormek with.
Looking at the instructions on the web and indeed on the box the jig has come in it states to roughly set up the angle with the universal support then final adjustment with the handle that turns in and out so giving the final angle.
The jig's handle I've received does not turn, indeed its moulded to the shaft, have I been seen off?
TC
Hold the jig in your hand by the end which holds the knife and the other end pointing up. If you see threads sticking out og the top, turn the plactic part to the right. If you see no threads, turn to the left. Make sure you have loosened the locking knob.
If none of this works, return the jig for a replacement.
Keep us posted.
Ken
Sorry Ken, there's no locking knob, think I have a pup.
Is your jig a new unit from a dealer?
Ken
Yers it came in it's original box.
I've now managed to unscrew the handle up and off so that's good but there is no locking knob, perhaps this is an older model?
The handle is very stiff to move so guess it wont slip whilst I'm using it.
TC
I wouldn't mess with it. How many times have we all "sort of fixed" a tool which never works well. Return it and get a properly working jig.
Ken
I thought the locking knob had been discontinued.
An adjustable SVM-45 was needed prior to the micro adjust feature being added to the US. Now I find myself turning the micro adjust far more often than the SVM-45 handle.