Flat tool holder plastic bearings

[Ken S]

White lithium grease works fine.

I replaced the stainless shaft on my first Tormek with the EZYlock. I really like it. However, in your case, it would not be my first priority.

Ken

[topconker]

Thanks ken, just been looking at it and see it is in either a spray form or just a tube, would the spray be a better option?
TC

[Jan]

Well..., huh.  Thanks Herman.  Good info.  I had no idea that some stainless steel could be nonmagnetic.  I've never run across that.  Interesting.

http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/why-dont-magnets-work-on/

Grepper, thanks for posting the link to the magnetic properties of stainless steels. It is the best short explanation I have ever read. 

Jan

[Ken S]

TC,

Either a tube or spray will work. You will probably end up using the grease more for other things than for your Tormek. Choose what you think might be the most convenient for around the house things. I might opt for a spray can with a tube for narrow application.

More on my EZYlock comment: The nylon bearings are inexpensive, and, if your shaft is not rusted, your Tormek has received good care over the years. I believe the most important first step for a new Tormeker is to get the stone true and graded properly. A new shaft won't help you there, however, if you do not have the present TT-50 truing tool and universal support with micro adjust, they will. If you happen to have the older truing tool, you can save some money by purchasing a TT-50U (the U standing for upgrade. It allows you to reuse your existing diamond cluster.)

Take a good look at your stone grader. The coarse side should be coarse. Unknown to me, my stone grader became worn. You need a good stone grader. New ones are not expensive.

Ken

[grepper]

I use Super Lube synthetic grease for the bearings.  I've never had it fail.  It maintains lubricity from -45F to 450F, is impervious to water and never breaks down.  It seems to work great.  It's easy to find at local stores.  I squirt it around the place like holy water.

http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-greases-ezp-44.html

[topconker]

OK, I've stripped the wheels off and checked the plastic/nylon bearings, they are definitely gone.
I've checked the shaft which has no rust so thinking it may be stainless even though it is magnetic and there is no wear on it.
So, bushes it is then to solve the problem.

Guess I need to invest in a truing device next.

TC

[Herman Trivilino]

Just checked and my shaft is magnetic with a hex nut.
The jig is a SVH-60.
Not sure whether to buy a new stainless shaft or just the nylon bearings, (once I can find them), buy the way which grease should I use?

You can use whatever grease you have on hand. A Teflon based spray lubricant works well, as does any type of waterproof silicone grease. I use lithium because I have some on hand.

3061 is the part number for the nylon bearing. Very inexpensive. I wouldn't buy a new main shaft unless I had to, but that's just me saving money.

I also have the older SVH-60 jig and have never upgraded to the newer SE-76.

[SharpenADullWitt]

Well..., huh.  Thanks Herman.  Good info.  I had no idea that some stainless steel could be nonmagnetic.  I've never run across that.  Interesting.

http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/why-dont-magnets-work-on/

Nonmagnetic stainless is used quite a bit in the medical field/hospitals.  You wouldn't want magnetic stainless steel around any MRI machines.

[grepper]

You can use whatever grease you have on hand.

Maybe.  Some lubes can deteriorate plastics:

http://machinedesign.com/mechanical-drives/engineering-essentials-lubrication-tips-plastic-gears-and-more-part-2

While functionally the Tormek is almost the opposite, I know from model helicopters that have nylon and other plastic gears, plastic compatible lubrication is important.  Head speeds can exceed 2,000 RPM, and care needs to be taken to avoid lubricants that can degrade plastic main gears.  Deterioration could cause a crash of a $1,500.00+ model.  Besides, any failure of these things can be extremely dangerous and have resulted in many injuries and even death from people being hit by their models.  Even the smaller models can cause severe injuries.  Loose control and you can be hit before you even have time to react.

This guy is one of, if not the best RC pilots in the world.  Nonetheless, I think he is insane to be so close.  If any little part failed....   He screws up and crashes about 4:30 in the vid. 

Think of the forces involved in this!  You sure would not want the main gear weakened by the wrong lubricant:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIOwHURs4-I

[topconker]

Just received and fitted the nylon bearings, (brilliant service from Axminster tools), which has made a huge difference and the unit now runs quietly and smoothly.
Tried to fit the small bushes to the flat tool jig but failing big time. I'm afraid just to hammer them in but can't get enough push with my fingers, any tips?

TC

[topconker]

Aha, just sorted it, pressed in with the vice jaws, Simples!

TC

[Ken S]

Great job, TC!

Ken

[topconker]

Just a quick update, invested in a dressing tool and used it to flatten the stone. I was amazed to find I had to take off 2mm to get the stone flat & square, great investment!
TC

[Herman Trivilino]

Just a quick update, invested in a dressing tool and used it to flatten the stone. I was amazed to find I had to take off 2mm to get the stone flat & square, great investment!
TC

In the future don't let it get anywhere near as bad as that again. An out-of-round grindstone will quickly get much worse very fast. It's best to keep it close to true. Also, keep an old tool in need of reshaping handy. A freshly-trued grindstone is far too coarse to be used for fine work like knife-sharpening.

[Ken S]

TC,

I'm glad you posted that! I had a similar experience with my T4. After a small amount of use, I needed several light passes with the truing tool. I really believe the T 4 should either be sold with the TT-50 included( and priced in) or at least with the stated need to true the grinding wheel.

Herman, are you using the newer truing tool (TT-50)? I have not found the surface with the TT-50 ground slowly to be very coarse. I should state that my stone grader is worn out and does not restore to coarse. It will be replaced very soon. Incidentally, the TT-50U (upgrade) is available at a lower cost. It allows the user to reuse the diamond cluster from the earlier model.

Kenjig