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 Would also save a lot of time cleaning the compound off when doing multiple knives

WolfY, if you don't mind sharing, what process do you use for pizza knives
on the belt sander. I have a viel which I use for bolster repair and reshaping
blades.  I'm also looking for a better way to do robot coupe type curved food processor blades.
I use lansky's for them now but it is time consuming.  Appreciate any and all feedback.
Best Wishes, Tim

Hi All,
My question is about longevity of the stones.  From reading posts and
stevebot's experience with the black stone I am more than willing to spend the extra 30 on
a black stone.  I sharpen mainly culinary production knives and am wondering if the 360 grit diamond
will be worth the investment in cost per knife.

Appreciate any feedback

Best Wishes. Tim

Anyone attempted a paper cutter blade?
My first guess is to remove the blade and sharpen as a scissor blade
or planer blade.  I haven't seen the actual cutter yet, just was asked if I would consider doing it.

I look at it just like a secondary bevel, so 22 plus 3 =25 from the spine of the knife.
Sharpening angle should be 22.

Will the ability to use the side of the wheel allow us Tormek users
to mimic a flat hone and sharpen convex salon shears and clipper blades.
Would require a new jig for salon shears I'm sure.
Just trying to justify the 999.00 investment for the package.
Best Wishes
Tim

I have a tendency to develop a tennis elbow which is related to repetitive
motions.  I have found that working with the wheel going away from me makes a great difference.
Rather than having to put constant pressure on a knife
I can let the support bar do a lot of the work and I can use lighter pressure on the blade.
Saves me a lot of muscle fatigue after 30 or 40 knives.
Best Wishes
Tim

Bevel size or angle is not related to pressure.  In my mind
bevel size is how far up the blade the bevel goes and is geometrically related
to the angle of the bevel and the thickness of the blade.
The thicker the blade, the more the bevel will go up the blade at the same angle.
It is also much easier to distinguish a secondary bevel on a thicker or forged blade.
Best wishes
Tim

Wondering how the T2 wheels hold up to heavy
work like reducing a bolster.  Do they maintain their
effectiveness. 

Tried it this way with a stamped knife using only the Tormek.  Hold knife perpendicular to a flat surface.
Run a fine point sharpie up between the 2 surfaces.  Set my angle at 30 deg. and only
ground where I saw sharpie mark. Repeat as necessary and reduce your angle as you
come closer to a true edge.  Done in under 5 minutes.   Would still recommend reducing bolster
first on a belt grinder for a forged knife.
Best wishes
Tim

I encounter this problem often.  Many times caused by pull-through type sharpeners that cannot
reach all the way to the back of a stamped blade, or by repeated sharpening of a forged blade without reducing the bolster.
For stamped blades, I use 80 grit Zirconia on a Viel and lightly run the blade up the belt (blade standing up directly on the belt) as it is running away from me until the blade is true.
Use a flashlight behind the blade and look for any light or test by chopping chives or parsley.  For forged blades, reduce the bolster first, and the do the above if necessary.
You may lose some or all of the bevel depending on how bad the damage.  Use the same process for chipped knives.
Then put a new bevel on using the tormek.  The 80 grit zirconia doesn't generate much heat as long as you are careful.
Best Wishes
Tim

Thank you for the feedback.  I sharpen mainly culinary production knives
and higher end chef knives and probably put less wear and tear on the wheel.
I also appreciate any and all mentoring that I can get.
That is the value of this forum and I am always learning from it.
Best Wishes
Tim

Still very confused on this point.  I don't feel the need to true this often and I also don't see how
20 to 25 truings will take 3 inches off of a wheel.  I'm not questioning your expertise but just wondering
if I am missing something. I do my scissors on a twice as sharp.  Maybe that is the difference.
Best Wishes, Tim

I learned mostly from Stevebot's book and video school.
Still use jigs for primary bevel.  Like to use a 1x42 leather belt on my
Viel with tormek honing paste.  Lay it flat so it is running away from me.
Also use paper wheels freehand for fisherman's filet knives.
Texture edge according to end use with spyderco different grit ceramics.
I don't undersatand Wootz only getting 1000 knives out of a Tormek wheel.
Did he mean 10,000.

Somewhat unrelated to this but I think this is the right group to get the proper answer.
My SG250 is down to 230.  Would it work on a T4 once it is below 200 and I purchase a new wheel for the T8
Best Wishes
Tim