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"The wire edge will be of variable size, depending on the quality of the steel in the blade.  Don't worry so much about the wire edge as having the two bevels meet at the center of the blade."  Jeff Farris

Was glad to run across across this post by Jeff. Sometimes I had trouble bringing up a burr on a knife.

I have a question in regard to bolster and return maintenance.

I am basing my terminology off the following diagram:
http://www.cookingforengineers.com/pics2/640/knifepartsv.jpg

The knife is a Chicago Cutlery 629 boning style knife. Most of the bolster is in the scales which the front portion of form a finger guard. It is similar to the one found at this link:
http://www.cutleryandmore.com/content/products/large/1028.jpg

The beginnings of a radius is being formed as the edge meets the return due to previous sharpenings.

The hollow ground portion (relief above the edge) of the blade is tapered (actually a slight concave radius) into the return by the factory. This is not the same radius mentioned in the above paragraph.

Should the edge be made straight to the beginning of the return, going through that taper (or radius), then blend in the return?

I know Jeff covered a similar question in Difficulty Sharpening the heel end of forged paring knives
( http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=855.0 ) but would appreciate any extra guidance or clarification as I'm a little dense. I'm sorry that I can not upload pictures from my phone to the computer.

One of my ham friends who is into old tractors, hit and miss engines, and etc. sent me this link.

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/02/25/hull-oakes-sawmill/

Hmmm, I wonder if Tormek could be modified to sharpen a blade like that?!!
By the way, I'm kidding!

Has anyone modified one of the old square frame units to have the beveled front? I have a welder and enjoy welding projects. Yeah, I know, what is a welder doing on a wood workers haven? I got it for knives and also  I used to do some carpentry work.
Probably most would leave as it is or buy a newer one, but if you have a lot more time than money....   
Would someone give the dimensions of how the top meets the bevel and how the front meets the bevel? Inches or metric either one will work.
Thanks

Anyone have experience sharpening knives while being seated? I have been making some progress on the learning curve, but would appreciate any advice. I am positioned on the opposite side of the Tormek than the operators in the  pictures that I see sharpening knives.
Thanks,
Elden