I finally worked out a simple, inexpensive peg to hold grinding wheels.
the peg itself is a three inch 1/4 x 20 hex bolt. In metric this would a 75mm long M6 hex bolt. The points of the hex head need to be ground down ever so slightly for the bolt to slide through the grinding wheel's bore. I ofiginally used 5/16" bolts, however, while they are very sturdy, they have very little step to keep the wheel in place.
I used two hex nuts and seven fender washers. (large diameter washers). Three fender washers (or a nlyon spacer washer) slide onto the bolt followed by a nut run in the full length of the threads. Two more fender washers are slid onto the bolt. The bolt is then slid through the hole in an upright of a set of heavy metal shelves and severed with two more fender washers and a nut. This makes a solid and inexpensive peg which is quickly and easily assembled or disassembled.
Photos will eventually follow.
Ken
sounds like they will work Ken. good job. the pics will be interesting to see ! :)
Quote from: Grizz on June 19, 2018, 06:18:05 PM
sounds like they will work Ken. good job. the pics will be interesting to see ! :)
I think the same as Grizzly, it would be very interesting to see the photos. :)
photos:
(//)
Finally photos. The first photo shows the 3" by 1/4" x20 hex bolt with just enough of the hex head points ground off for the bolt to slide through the 12 mm bore of the Tormek grinding wheels. The 1/4" bolt provides a good step (the hex head) to help secure the grinding wheel.
First three fender washers are fed onto the bolt. Then a hex nut and two more fender washers. The bolt is fed through the hole in the metal shelf upright. Two more fender washers are added and a final hex nut holds the hook to the shelf.
The second photo shows the hook holding an SG-250.
The parts are inexpensive in regular steel. I suggest making up one in regular steel to see if you like it. You can add more later.
Ken
is the 1/4" bolt a grade 5 or grade 8 ? just curious, the diamond wheels weigh approx. 10 lbs ?
Good question, Grizz. My official answer would always be Grade 8. In the real world, this hardware all came from the bins at the local big box. Considering the weight of the grinding wheels, I do think Grade 8 would be a wise precaution. I doubled up on the fender washers for extra rigidity, although while gathering this hardware I discovered that there are also thick fender washers.
I suppose the bolts really should be stainless. My original ones were, and are still working fine. I will keep watch on the new hook. If the bolt should start to rust, I can easily replace it.
I welcome suggestions.
Ken
yepper, stainless steel bolts would be in order the first sign of corrosion.
Picture the head of the bolt and it will let you know.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Fastener-Basics.pdf
I found this useful for people that haven't yet learned how to read a bolt.
Also, with a long enough bolt, inserted at a slight angle, one wouldn't need the bolt to have a head and it would be more like a tire stud used on some cars (VW for example) to help align and hang the tire, until the first lug is tightened down. (useful tool for side of road/flat tire changes)
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on June 24, 2018, 03:49:07 PM
Picture the head of the bolt and it will let you know.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Fastener-Basics.pdf
I found this useful for people that haven't yet learned how to read a bolt.
That would be me... thanks!
Interesting bolt and screw info. I have printed it out for reference. Thanks for posting it.
Ken
I looked at the top of my bolt. No marks, which makes it Big Box Finest low carbon steel. In the future, I might spring for better steel.
Ken
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on June 24, 2018, 03:49:07 PM
Picture the head of the bolt and it will let you know.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Fastener-Basics.pdf
I found this useful for people that haven't yet learned how to read a bolt.
Thanks for sharing, very useful for me that information
Guys,
Grade 8 or even grade 5 hardware is a massive overkill! Grade 2 bolts have a tensile strength of over 70,000psi, the trivial weight of your grinding wheel will not pose a problem for basic low carbon steel hardware.
Welcome to the forum, Kenc. That's good information about bolt grades. Is there any difference between grades in corrosion resistance?
Ken (S)
Quote from: Ken S on July 04, 2018, 10:04:56 PM
Welcome to the forum, Kenc. That's good information about bolt grades. Is there any difference between grades in corrosion resistance?
Ken (S)
I don't know specifics, but I would say yes when it comes to grade 8 (the yellowish coating they have, as they tend to be used on machinery like cars) or stainless. When I worked in a garage, it was grade 8 for frame work, and if a bolt was screwed up holding down something like the battery tray or an alternator bolt, lower grades were ok.
Interesting post, SADW.
When I rehabbed my seventy five year old drill press, I replaced some of the hardware with grade eight. My reason for doing this was more sentimental than logical. Former owners were my father and a dear family friend. I wanted to do my best work.
From a practical standpoint, I don't see where the cost difference is a major consideration. If you are thrifty, I suspect the grade two is more than adequate. If you are particular, then use stainless or grade eight.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on July 04, 2018, 10:04:56 PM
Welcome to the forum, Kenc. That's good information about bolt grades. Is there any difference between grades in corrosion resistance?
Ken (S)
Thanks for the welcome Ken, I hope to learn a lot about the Tormak here. I have a T7 with a number of the jigs and an SJ250 waterstone.
Regarding corrosion, I don't know off hand, that's a good question. If I were to guess, I would say yes, that grade 8 - which is an alloy steel - would be superior, but I'm not sure what alloying elements are included in grade 8. I know nickel and chromium improve corrosion resistance.
A quick search led me to this which looks pretty complete:
https://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf
Hmm, need to sit down and read this, I bet the info is in here somewhere!